Chainring & cassette wear – when?

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  • Chainring & cassette wear – when?
  • Premier Icon jim
    Subscriber

    Less than .75 wear is no guarantee that the rings and cassette will be ok. Best bet is to stick a new chain on and see how you get on.

    bassspine
    Member

    .75 try a new chain, see if it goes ok if not go to 1.0
    1.0 new chain, cassette, chainrings.

    forge197
    Member

    been using one bike a fair bit didn't check the chain and now its at 1.0 going to run it now until I get chain suck and change the lot 🙂

    Should have added normally change the chain at .75 and the rest when they start to give trouble!!

    timwillows
    Member

    All is working fine. Suppose I should just carry on and then change the whole lot in one go!

    Not too impressed with the rings though, only done about 5 months!

    bassspine
    Member

    Depends on where and when you did those 5 months: crappy weather and grime or 5 months of dry dust-free riding?

    timwillows
    Member

    Crappy muddy South Downs!

    timwillows
    Member

    What is the indicator of a chainring or cassette being worn? Chains are easy, I have a little guage by Par, but what am I looking for on the sprockets?
    Currently the teeth are asymmetric and worn a little pointy on the granny ring, cassette looks more even. Surprized if it is worn out as all fitted new with a fresh chain, and the chain is still within the .75 wear limit.

    Cheers

    sailor74
    Member

    so how often are people changing their chains. i try to replace around the .75 mark but it does mean a chain only lasts 6 weeks or so.

    foxyrider
    Member

    blimey 6 weeks – my last chain lasted about 6 months – used it twice a week for 3-4 hours a ride. Changed it at just on/under .75. No probs with new chain PC971.

    avdave2
    Member

    3 years on one chain one sprocket and one chainring on The Crappy muddy South Downs. Makes up for having to drag the Rohloff up the hills!

    uplink
    Member

    new chain @0.75 & keep doing that until it skips
    When it skips with a new chain on, I put the old one back on & run it into the ground & then start again

    Usually get 3 chains to a cassette – about 2 years I reckon

    sailor74
    Member

    mmm maybe this dry lube doesnt protect from wear that well. maybe i should go back to the old 3in1.

    ojom
    Member

    i have been getting about 8 weeks or so meself.

    sailor74
    Member

    been running expensive light weight chains too, gonna try something cheaper, heavier and hopefully tougher next time

    MrSalmon
    Member

    i try to replace around the .75 mark but it does mean a chain only lasts 6 weeks or so.

    Crikey! Where do you ride? I do the same but get at least 6 months, cleaning the chain after pretty much every ride.

    Sailor, in 6 weeks of using rock n roll extreme dry lube, my chain went from well below 0.75 to 1.0.

    While the dry lubes definitely keeps the exterior of the chain looking clean, my limited evidence suggests that its not that good as an actual chain lube.

    Thinking about it, since the chain roller is a metal on metal drag, anything that sets up hard will be ground out/off the bearing surfaces fairly quickly – Surely one needs something with a low enough viscosity to flow back onto the metal after that roller has born the load?

    I try to change chains at 0.75% – this is between 500 and 1000 miles usually

    TJ – how hard is that putoline stuff you're using once its solidified?

    Science officer – hard to explain – a bit softer than candlewax, harder than ordinary grease similar to shoe polish / wax furniture polish???

    On friday I did a 35 mile wet ride on gravel surfaces which normally strips lube out – the chains were still well lubed afterwards.

    I am still measuring wear on the chains but it appears much less than previously and the lube lasts hundreds of miles rather than tens of miles

    I am really impressed with it

    Thanks – Do you degrease before reapplication to get the dirt out?

    Science officer – no need – the molten wax does it for you. – the chains are fairly clean anyway as muck does not stick to the wax. When you put them into the bath of molten wax the stuff going into the spaces forces any muck out – the bottom of the tin gets all gritty but it does not stay in suspension in the wax.

    Its a bit black magic but seems to work

Viewing 21 posts - 1 through 21 (of 21 total)

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