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MrsWCA wants a new coffee table with a display area no less.
I have knocked up a basic design in Sketchup but was wondering about fixing it all together.
[url= https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4392/36498656615_04935664af_c.jp g" target="_blank">https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4392/36498656615_04935664af_c.jp g"/> [/img][/url][url= https://flic.kr/p/XBga22 ]Coffee Table[/url] by [url= https://www.flickr.com/photos/89686376@N04/ ]WCA![/url], on Flickr
The timber is 'reclaimed', initially from a school gym but then used for 30 years as a shelf.
[url= https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4430/36485702965_9894053f5e_c.jp g" target="_blank">https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4430/36485702965_9894053f5e_c.jp g"/> [/img][/url][url= https://flic.kr/p/XA7Lme ]20170810_165853[/url] by [url= https://www.flickr.com/photos/89686376@N04/ ]WCA![/url], on Flickr
Cleans up okay with a bit of sanding and appears quite straight and not too warped.
[url= https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4346/35648657994_21ae0cdbed_c.jp g" target="_blank">https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4346/35648657994_21ae0cdbed_c.jp g"/> [/img][/url][url= https://flic.kr/p/Wj9G3o ]20170810_165908[/url] by [url= https://www.flickr.com/photos/89686376@N04/ ]WCA![/url], on Flickr
[url= https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4441/36484020125_3369c2b69c_c.jp g" target="_blank">https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4441/36484020125_3369c2b69c_c.jp g"/> [/img][/url][url= https://flic.kr/p/XzY96K ]20170810_165915[/url] by [url= https://www.flickr.com/photos/89686376@N04/ ]WCA![/url], on Flickr
I am thinking I could use pocket hole screws from underneath to hold the 4 top planks together.
Joining the 4 sides of the table is what I am struggling with. Because of the glass top you can see 'inside' the table so I can't use pocket holes there and the outside is also on show.
The simplicity of a butt joint with glue appeals and the planks are quite thick so a fair area will be glued but I am not sure if that will be sturdy enough when the table is being moved/dragged about. There will be a fair bit of weight to it.
I am thinking pocket hole to connect the sides to the top planks.
Glass will be set in a routed grove so stay level with the planks. We have a sucker thingy to lift the glass out when we want to change the display.
Any suggestion on fixing the sides?
Any advice on other aspects of the plan?
How about a biscuit joint? Think that would work for the sides and top as long as the timber is ~15mm or thicker.
They can be cut either using a router bit or dedicated biscuit jointer tool (much faster if you have lots to do).
Construct the table and then line the inside with non-structural glued panels to hide the joints and provide a cosmetic finish and act as a support for the glass insert?
Yes, as above, a cosmetic liner and pocket screws, or biscuit or dowel joints so long as you are able to apply some cramping force getting it together.
Another option might be cutting a small housing into the legs, into which the sides would sit. Better than just a butt joint but obviously tool-dependent.
Combe / box joint for me. Three big ones. Simple and strong.
Sorry didn't see the mini legs. Tennis for me.
[i]Construct the table and then line the inside with non-structural glued panels to hide the joints and provide a cosmetic finish and act as a support for the glass insert? [/i]
And we have a winner!
Thanks guys. So bloody obvious when someone else says it. Also means I can use a lighter wood for the inside without it looking strange on the outside.
I'd go with pocket holes with plugs cut from the same timber
[url= https://www.kregtool.com/store/c22/kreg-jigreg-accessories/p349/custom-pocket-hole-plug-cutter/ ]plug cutter[/url]
I'm sure the professionals will disagree...
I have just paid £30 for the Kreg R3 jig, I am not shelling out another $70 for a plug cutter!
Just place the holes discretely and cover over on the inside.
I'd agree with The Brick and use box joints on the base. No reason why you cant add blocks afterwards for the feet. You could dowel the joints, or even run threaded rod through to clamp them up - no need for any glue then (largely pointless on end grain anyway). Consider a lapped mitre for the top frame, very easy to do since you have a router.
Or make a 'feature' of the fixings. Something big and chunky in an interesting material (brass, stainless).
Is this about Alpin?
I hope this is for displaying your taxidermy collection?
Is this about Alpin?
🙂
I have just paid £30 for the Kreg R3 jig, I am not shelling out another $70 for a plug cutter!
You can buy Kreg plugs in various types of timber. Not too expensive if you just want to fill a few holes
[url= http://en.rocketnews24.com/2016/10/14/animated-gifs-of-traditional-japanese-woodworking-joints-are-mesmerising-to-watch/ ]One of these[/url]
dovetail the base together, do not fix the top to the base rigidly, allow for some movement and allow some space for the glass too with felt etc.
the butt joint on the top will also probably move so a small chamfer to leave a decorative groove or something similar may help hide it, you can add a false joint/goove on the other side to make a square on each corner
Very nice Fuzzy, but it's no Ikea is it?
And, if you need clamps, these with 25mm wood of sufficient length...
http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-trade-clamps-clamp-head-set-505546
Where in the country are you? I have a Domino joiner (#showoff) and you'd be welcome to use it and nick a few dominos if you are anywhere Hampshire...
Kreg R3 user here (I'm on my 3rd). I get all my stuff from Appleby Woodturnings. I use thousands of the Kreg screws and for exposed joints I use the [url= http://www.applebywoodturnings.co.uk/kreg-pocket-hole-kits/plugs.html ]Kreg plugs.[/url]
But I would use the liner method as Perchypanther proposed. Or dowels. You can get metal pins that go into the first set of holes to ensure the opposing holes line up perfectly.
I am in Southampton but to embarrassed to actually meet someone who can do wood work. I just have ideas and try to follow through.
I have just thought - I had better order some screws. Do they need to be Kreg specific screw or pocket hole specific screws or can and wood screw work?
Just seen this post- are you finished yet, or have you only just begun?
Pocket Hole and biscuits. If you buy the kit you will use it over and over and over and over.( you get the idea)
I am in Southampton but to embarrassed to actually meet someone who can do wood work. I just have ideas and try to follow through.I have just thought - I had better order some screws. Do they need to be Kreg specific screw or pocket hole specific screws or can and wood screw work?
I'm just north of Basingstoke if you change your mind, and you'd be most welcome. I've got most bits of carpentry kit you might need if there are any other tricky bits (planer thicknesser, bandsaw, mitre saw, tracksaw etc) but I am just a hobbyist as well.
Axminster Tools sell their own brand of pocket hole screws they are branded UJK - and are available mail order. Generic wood screws will sometimes work, but they can split the wood as they have a countersunk head.
Pocket Hole and biscuits. If you buy the kit you will use it over and over and over and over.( you get the idea)
Just remembered - you can buy a biscuit cutting router bit, which will give you perfect joints for a fraction of the price of buying a biscuit jointer.
[url= http://www.screwfix.com/c/tools/biscuit-jointing/cat5990018 ]http://www.screwfix.com/c/tools/biscuit-jointing/cat5990018[/url]
How about a Camberwell Carrot?
After that you'll not be all that worried about whether it's going to collapse or not.
We've a forumite in Germany who's your man.
I'm liking the idea but can't offer any help. Sorry
They don't need to be the specific screw but they must be pan head. Flat (washer) base. Kreg screws have a square drive to fit the long driver bit in the kit. If you get PZ screws you'll need a long extension.
This type of joint could help
[img] 
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Codybrenan I see what you did there!