Thanks. Being new to 650b and Full suss, like any bike buy this is ending up costing more than just the bike. I have loads of bits and bobs lying about in the garage, none which are suitable for this. I even put my flat pedals on Jnr’s bike a few weeks ago so need to get some of those.
Love Dampfs on my Trigger 29 for most of the year and round the Ridgeway/Swinley/Portland stuff.
Wet rocks and a poor mud clearance do spoil a few rides.
Not certain I’d change to them at this time of year, in the spring for sure though.
Changed my tyres to a Spesh Butcher front and Purgatory rear, it has so much more grip, those Crossrocs are lethal on stony/rooty trails. Still haven’t quite sorted the Lefty out, was having too much fun riding to be bothered to stop and mess about with it but the rear seems fine with recommended settings.
Rode out to the woods mainly in the big ring, a little bit in the small ring for a field climb – all fine shifting back and forth.
Rode around the woods in the small ring, got on with the bike really well. Then went to stick it in the big ring to ride home and the mech wouldn’t shift across enough. Need to get that sorted, possible cable slippage?
[url=https://flic.kr/p/yU8BJw]Jekyll[/url] by >scott<, on Flickr
Have only been out once, but first impressions are that it pedals really well in both modes. Need to play around with pressures a bit more, want to try running a bit more sag. I was mostly just getting the feel for bigger everything – wheels, frame, bars, forks. That, and swearing at myself for not setting up the front shifting properly. I suppose the telling moment is later in the day I found myself pre-jumping into a section of trail and powering out of the next corner going “**** me. Awesome”. Need to get out more while the weather is good, and get to know it a bit better.
I’m not a fan of the travel adjust lever perched on top of the bars as it is. Need to have a look at that and see if I can figure something out – I’m still running a LH shifter, and will eventually have the dropper remote on there, so not quite sure what.. I also can’t help but look at the shock and front derailleur and do a mental calculation on how much mud is going to end up in that space. The shock even has handy little bowls around the rebound adjusters to help keep everything in.
I also can’t help but look at the shock and front derailleur and do a mental calculation on how much mud is going to end up in that space. The shock even has handy little bowls around the rebound adjusters to help keep everything in.
Not too bad after 4 miles off road… There really IS a front mech under there.
Couple of things – has anyone fed their dropper post hose through their Trigger problem-free?
Lost my upper rubber grommet inside the frame whilst trying to do so but it gets stuck somewhere near the bottom of the down tube. Looks like I’ll have to unbolt the shock the get the lower rubber grommet out to see where the cable’s trying to go….anyone had to do similar or been ok?
Also about to buy part KP177 through Qwerty Cannondale as I want to swap a 160 for a 185 rotor on the rear…anyone found a way of converting without the need for a C’dale-specific part? Cheers
A shiny new Trigger 4 was waiting for me when I got home today. The weight straight out of the box for this medium was 29.4 lbs (no pedals, but everything else as fitted by Cannondale). Pretty impressed with that, and my plan to immediately replace lots of components just went on to the back burner. Although the Wolverines won’t see the trail, and neither will the triple. But no rush to change anything else.
Now it’s turned up, I’m blown away by how good the 4 is for a grand. Need to get my Reverb over – is the stealth routing meant to just be out of the bottom of the seat tube then clip on to the downtube cables, or can it go internal to the grommet by the headtube?
Anyone found a reasonably priced short stem in the now-unpopular 1.5″ steerer size?
I got a trigger 3 last week but due to work I have to wait until Friday to get it out. Very impressed for the money and well built by Pauls. As above the Wolverines will go and I’ll run tubeless..
Do the rims run tubeless without rim tape etc? Yet to have a look, as I literally unboxed it, admired and kept it in the house over night (as you must do with all new bikes on their first night with you?) before putting it into the garage and leaving for work nearly a week ago 🙁
After extensive research and this thread I’ll be expecting a trigger 2 around my birthday. Always promised myself a nice treat when I got my life in order and now it’s here!
So thanks to everyone on here, actually genuinely excited about this.
Got my Jekyll 4 days ago, but having a bit of bad luck with it.
Initially the shock was very noisy when compressing, phoned Paul’s up and they said return it , we will send another.
Replacement turned up today, mounted it on the bike, nice and quiet
Went to tighten up the cable on top for the travel adjuster, found the grub screw stripped
Phoned Paul’s this afternoon, sent it back , waiting for another shock!
Couple of questions….Has anyone converted the wheels to tubeless yet?
Where have people put the black dropper post cable tidy? Top of the seat tube or on the dropper itself? Anyone else got a squeaky shock mine is squeaking a bit when I bounce up and down…
I converted my Trigger 2 wheels (Crossrocs) to tubeless, simple enough as they already had tubeless tape in them and they also supplied the valves so took 10 minutes. Spesh tyres went up first time and didn’t loose pressure overnight.
I converted my Trigger 4 to tubeless this week. Swapped the Wolervines out for some Maxxis Ardents. The wheels are “tubeless ready” in that they’ve been pre-taped for you and there are tubeless valves included in the little box of goodies you get with the bike. The Ardents went up first go (I use a compressor mind), with just a tiny amount of air leakage that sealed quickly with Stan’s finest, and they have been no trouble since.
First ride planned for this afternoon! 😀
I’m trying one of new fangled thick/thin chainrings up front. It’s pretty noisy in the lower gears due, I think, to dodgy chain line. Is this perfectly normal? I’ve always been a double and bash user up to now, but thought I would give this a try. It’s mounted on a spare set of Raceface Deus XC cranks I had lying around. Nothing against the Deore chainset, by the way – I was very pleasantly surprised how good Deore has become. I can tweak the chainline a bit (there is a spacer you can swap over on the Deus cranks) and I will – but I did wonder if the noise is just something you have to tolerate?
I am running a direct mount 30t chainring on the Sram cranks that came on my bike, Trigger 2. I can’t say I have noticed it being noisy, it just works fine.
For anyone planning to do this you need a GXP direct mount ring, rather than BB30 direct mount.
Mine’s a 34t from Superstar. Seems perfectly tidy, but like I say, noisy in the lower gears / more extreme chainlines. Happy to play around with it for a bit and see if I can get it to improve.
My Trigger has been up a few munros this year. Tubeless was straightforward with the i23 rims apart from one weird leakage episode which hasn’t been repeated. No squeaks here!
He even has the same blue suit as “The” Trigger which always makes me smile…
Posted 8 years ago
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