[Closed] BB30 - time to sort once and for all

I bought my Spearfish off someone years ago and he had installed a Praxis.
No idea what it is but it has lasted years and never creaked. I will be installing one on my Anthem when it arrives.

Sounds. like your commited to a change but bearing fit liquid and good bearings works for me if your willing to give them another chance.

I've just (in the last month or so) fitted one of those Wheels Manufacturing ones to my Specialized CX bike which was plagued with creaking/cracking BB.

So far it's been nicely silent and the BB went in OK with a bit of faffing around with spacers - I'm running a 2x10 with a Rotor chainset and a Shimano front mech which sometimes takes a bit of fettling to get right.

Neither.
Fit [url= http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/fsa-bb30-threaded-adapter-b3119-/rp-prod129935 ]one of these[/url] and use a threaded BB of your choice.

Have you found those to be creak-free Roschach?

I've gone for a Hope (reducing one from 30mm axle down to 24mm so I could ditch the leaden SRAM cranks for some spare XTs I had).

Have a look at hope's website (I think it's called the pf46?). I'm not going to be able to describe how it fits as well as they can.

Too early in its life cycle to give a long term view but it seems really well made and was bought on the back of comments on here. I do have a bit of drive train click but there's a head of places that could be coming from.

I just stupidly bought the wheels pf 30 bottom bracket which is the enduro bearing version screw into each other, however I have a bb30 on my cannondale so the only way is to press in bearings or convert to a 24mm due to having a 30mm shell built in already,

If you ant to go that way I'll sell mine for 50£ delivery rather than faff returning it, cost me 55 and postage. Not fitted and still in the box I realised as I got round to replacing my clicking bearings.

I've fitted 20-30 of the FSA threaded shells over the years and currently have one fitted to my road bike.Never had an issue with them creaking (still same problems with bsa BB's but it's the best of a bad lot!!)
They are a bit of a PITA to fit without the right tools and I'd class them as semi permanent (they are an even bigger PITA to remove!!)

PSA (ish):

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[url= http://www.ribblecycles.co.uk/fsa-bb30-adaptor/ ]FSA adaptor is £5.41 at Ribble[/url]

Fitted one to my Diverge today without drama. Waiting for the glue* to dry before I can test it. Since it is a pretty solid tube that takes a standard Shimano BB (or what have you), I'm pretty confident it won't creak (the original BB/spacer arrangement had started creaking annoyingly after ~3000 miles, and dismantling / greasing it all didn't silence it for very long).

Ribble are also doing Ultegra BBs for a reasonable price atm.

It looks and feels like a properly engineered solution.

*It seems these are sometimes supplied with glue (loctite 608), but this one didn't come with any. I used Loctite 638 as I already had some.

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In weight-weenie style:

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It looks and feels like a properly engineered solution.

FSA thingy on my spearfish for about 3 years now....no issues and no poxy PF30 bb either!

...to what seems to be a badly thought out solution to the original properly engineered solution.

Indeed! 😀

FSA adaptor for me - solves an issue that should never have been created...

+another 1 for the FSA.
Leave it in the freezer for a few hours and pour some boiling water on the BB shell to assist installation.
Thankfully another shite piece of SRAM kit assigned to the scrap bin.

Just make sure you have the correct length FSA adaptor before fitting 😳

Can you get a BB30a adaptor (extra 5mm over BB30), or am I stuck with a Cannondale?

Ok, I'm gonna go for it cheers.

Fitted the works one last night, but on my process it was a pain due to the swingarm fouling the tool, is in now though!

It's important you fit them the right way round too!! 😳

Just for the record, I have the WheelsMFG one. It's clicking after a month.

Oddly, I had the previous version that didn't screw together. It came with the Enduro angular contact bearings. They started clicking after a few months. I pushed the bearings out and replaced with SKF and it lasted >1 year. I should have just replaced the bearings again, but liked the idea of the screw fit version. Not sure what to do now... go back to the old one or stick with the screw fit one (with SKF bearings obvs).

Doesn't ISIS look like a much better system now. 🙂

I confused that with one of th political threads epicyclo.

I had bb30 on my cannondale road bike 1st bb lasted 6 months since then I remove chainset then bearing seal with a tiny hook and regrease around every 8 months. Its been creak free for about a year and a half now. Seems to be working for me and I use the bike in all weather.
Good luck anyway I know things like this really piss you off.

Got a Rotor one on my CAAD9 about 18 months ago, all I can really say is that it went on easy and I've not had touch it since. The old BB30 was only good for about 3 months before the braking started again.

Creaking aside I binned my SRAM S1400/BB30 setup purely because of that stupid threaded grey plastic preload adjustment arrangement.

igm - Member
I confused that with one of th political threads epicyclo.

(And if MI5/6 or whatever are reading this, ISIS is a bicycley thing)

Oops! drones despatched to nearest lbs...

I have a praxis bb30 converter in my mtb and the bearings need replacing.
Does anyone know if they just knock out or is there a special tool required to remove the bearings.
Cheers.

Invariably there will be a special tool...doesn't mean they won't knock out though.

I didn't think the bearings were replaceable on the Praxis one.

I fitted a Praxxis Works BB30 adaptor on my previous Whyte 29-C when the original, crappy FSA BB30 died after about 3500km. I put over 9000km on the Praxxis BB prior to selling the bike, I checked the bearings prior to selling and they were still as smooth as new.

Some might consider Praxxis slightly pricey but I'd highly recommend their BB30 adaptor, bloody great design.

Given that pressfit bottom brackets need to be manufactured to really high tolerances, any squeaking would suggest that the BB sleeve is not up to the required standard. Anyone tried returning the bike/frame for a refund as surely they're not fit for purpose?

Pretty sure it'd come back with them saying the BB shell is in tolerance - they'd decide what that is after they've measured it. 🙂

. Anyone tried returning the bike/frame for a refund as surely they're not fit for purpose?

A lot of the problem on mine was that it used adaptors for a 24mm crank spindle. The BB30 bearings don't align with the journals on a HT2 crank, so the adaptors have a bending load on them and are bound to start creaking eventually.

FSA adapter here too, fitted to my jekyll.

I've got some enduro BB30 to GXP adapters I'd sell if you're interested. They were squeek free until I swapped back to BB30 for some cranks I got.

The problem is that general machining tolerances aren't good enough for precision bearing alignment - Magic Motorcycle who designed BB30 didn't intend it to be mass-produced, but Cannondale who bought MM ignored the fact and foisted the crock on an unsuspecting market.

Went for the FSA sleeve on ribble and an ultegra threaded bottom bracket. Now just need to find someone in London to fit it for me. Thanks for advice.

Happy to report that my Diverge is once again creak, click and groan free - blissfully silent, in fact. 🙂

You think you've got it bad. Bloody PF30 83mm.

Can you get a BB30a adaptor (extra 5mm over BB30), or am I stuck with a Cannondale?

Chain Reaction list the FSA adaptor in 73mm, if that's what you need.

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/fsa-bb30-threaded-adapter-b3119-/rp-prod129935

The BB shell needs to have a clear bore from one side to the other to fit them. I have read that various Cannondales have a ridge in the BB shell which stops you fitting this type of adaptor. Best check...

But then you've got to find a road chainset that uses a 73mm BB...good luck with that!

To be fair it's 73mm now I think - just with no spacers.

And yes there's a ridge in the middle where the cable guide screws in.

It's not going to work, is it.

I am jinxed, had a local bike shop which is well thought off fit one of these. After a winter of it working well it has started to creak again. Shop has tried everything, refacing the sleeve, checking every thing else on the bike that might creak. Fitting  several different crank and and bottom bracket combinations and it still creaks. They now think sleeve or bond to shell has failed and it needs to be removed. Any suggestions who might be able to do this or is frame scrap?

As long as it's not a carbon frame you can take it out and put it back in numerous times with a headset press/extractor. I've made a tool to do this easily from a few cheap bits and pieces from b and q. I've just fitted another one on friday which is why it's fresh in my mind.

If it was fitted correctly with plenty of  the loctite that is supplied with it if be really surprised if it was able to move inside the frame and cause a creak. <span style="font-size: 0.8rem;">Are you sure it's the bottom bracket creaking? I'd check all of the other usual suspect like skewers, headset, bars and stem before going down that route. </span>

Aluminium frame so hopefully this will work, used Loctite 638 as no glue supplied when I bought the sleeve from Ribble. Have tried everything, different wheels, headset, sharpest / saddle, bars and stem.