As in the title the search for a car for my wife continues. We both like the look of the mark1 tt’s so a couple of questions.
What are the main things to look out for?
Is the best one the 1.8 or the 3.2 engine.
It won’t do many miles so not bothered about mpg just a bit of realibility
Thanks

I’ve had both years ago but from new so can’t recall anything specific to look out for. In terms of which is best, the 225hp 1.8 isn’t much slower in a straight line, if at all. However the 3.2 sounds epic and makes the car feel far more special. They are reasonably practical too as the rear seats fold completely flat giving a good sized boot.

If you do go for the more powerful version of the 1.8, just to put a spanner in the works, go and test drive a mark 5 or 6 Golf Gti – it’s slightly slower in a straight line but the engine, ride and handling are leagues ahead. Mark 5 interior is naff though.

The thing about the 3.2, is the 3.0 BMW engine of the same era is better. That said they never made a 2+2 for it so you’d either have a 130 or a Z4. Which I would do as the handling in the Audi will be understeer biased and not that much fun to drive.

My folks had a very old one, it looked great but towards the end the electrics went (especially the windows, randomly opening whilst driving along!) and no amount of visits to the Audi garage could fix it, it was damp inside the car too for some reason. Still handled great and was fun to drive but it was getting 25mpg on a good day. Eventually it went to the scrap yard as it was riddled with rust.

car for my wife continues

Audi TT 😀

I can’t help specifically, had a friend who had the 1.8 who always lusted after the 3.2. Neighbour had a more recent 3.2 and it was plenty fast (we may have done some side by side comparisons 😉 ). Would say just check service history as a statement of the obvious as the bills for 3.2 will be higher. Would second practicality, there’s quite a lot of space with rear seats down

There is a turbo on the 1.8 though so maybe in an older one the 3.2 will be better. Service history and obvious clues on how well it’s been looked after (no cheap mismatched tyres, dirty etc) are key things to look out for though.

My mate had a Mk1, and like The Beard ^^ it suffered from damp and dodgy electrics unfortunately.

A good friend had/has a 3.2 from new. He likes it, however, about 3 years ago the timing chain started to jump which ruined the engine. As he had the car from new and had a full dealer history Audi agreed to replace the engine despite no warranty etc.
He is a hairdresser.

I have a Mk1 TT Roadster 3.2 DSG, owned it from new, 55 plate.
I am not a hairdresser.
What would you like to know about them?
I’ve only experience of cars like mine, I know a lot about them, I’ve had a couple of issues with mine that needed Audi to fix and for the moment I’ll give a brief run down of things to look out for:
1) DSG boxes, some have failed in their Mechtronic Box gubbins. Mine stuck in reverse and thats typical of them if they go pop. It’s only the electronic box that fails not the gearbox and is a 1/2day job to get changed. Done under warranty mine was at 16k miles, worth asking if you decide on a DSG of the previous owner if it’s had this issue and been fixed..
2) Front wishbone bushes, these are hard hit items due to weight on the front and speedbumps. They’ll fail an MOT, they perish. Normally pulled out in an MOT report. Also the spring top bushes perish and that’s a whole suspension drop job, again pulled out in the MOT report.
3) Dashboards, the digital dash pixels go as the car gets older, no matter the mileage. If you can’t see anything in the center Pod then the dash will need replacing/fixing and thats a £250 job and at least a day in the workshop.
4) Coil Packs, typically these fail over time. Audi did a recall FOC on all BLACK coil packs a few years ago, worth checking. All replacements are GREY. Just lift the bonnet and have a look at them, if BLACK get Audi to replace them.
5) Missfire when not warm, but not when the cars on “choke”. There is a problem with the 3.2, the coolant temp gauge fails and sends the wrong info to the Intake Sensor and over riches the mixture. This causes missfires but only if you start the car and not get it warm, say do a journey from cold of about a mile then stop, then start again and the missfire will appear. Thing with this is it’s very intermittent and only happens about 3-5 times a year. It will clear itself but runs like a dog for about 2mins until it blows out/burns off the fuel. Some people have been told a myriad of fixes for this simple issue, are well documented. Tales of cam chains and sensors and crank sensors all requiring changing are bound to put people off as they’re expensive items to change, but it’s crap it’s the coolant temp sensor failing thats all and a £20 plus labour to fix.
6) Sidelight bulbs, blasted things keep blowing, get them changed for LED’s sharpish as access to the bulb will cut your thumb off.
Nothing else, mines been a joy to own. Goes like stink if you care to drive it like that but I don’t, I’ve never used the Standing Start Mode, this is a bit of a boy racer thing I think. I only use the Auto function and probably use the flappy paddles 5 times a year. I really look after my car, it’s just part of me now and I can’t part with it, despite on occasion thinking I should get rid I just can’t. To me these are design icons, they look as good now as they did when they first came out and haven’t aged (IMO)
I’ve no experience of the 225 or the 180 four pots, nor the coupe’ version.

Had a Mk1 3.2 V6 DSG Coupe about 6 years ago. I loved it, amazing sound, felt quicker than the R32 that replaced it and on a long run sometimes saw as much as 36mpg.

After we bought it, we drove it for 2 weeks around Europe, from the Uk, down through the Alps to the Italian Lakes and back again. I would have another one in a heartbeat. Comfortable, (I’m nearly 6’5″), great boot space, (bought loads of wine back from France) and easy to fit bike racks too, (not that I ever did).

Nothing ever went wrong in our ownership and servicing was pretty cheap. If I was to buy another I would be tempted to get it inspected but prices are very appealing at the moment!

Personally I also prefer the styling on the V6s over the 1.8s, larger rear spoiler, deeper front skirt and honeycomb exhaust surround.

Couple of pic on the way to the Stelvio Pass.

This looks like mine.

Apparently, you can get a full set of wheels in the back of the mk1 with the seats down.

I had the 225 Quattro Convertible, which was a lovely car.

Very stable (the only time it ever went sideways was on gravel with the traction control off) and a comfortable place to be on long drives.

The 20v 1.8t engine is an excellent unit and used in a huge range of VAG cars in various states of tune. I’d go for the 225 bhp version in a quattro TT plus the standard spec is better v’s the 180 bhp.

Main things with the 1.8t are:
– MAF sensor
– Coil Packs
– Water pump (original plastic impeller version would disintegrate, jam the pump and snap the cambelt – so check for regular belt and water pump changes)
– Regular servicing and oil changes with good quality oil are essential to ensuring the turbo is in the best possible shape.

These engines are very simple to tune and obtain big power gains, conversely doing so can shorten the life of a multitude of components. If you don’t want a modified one, make sure it hasn’t been. Can be tough to tell as remaps are the most common method and they can be ‘switched off’ so no way to tell if one had been used. However, remapped cars usually get other mods e.g. stainless exhaust, uprated diverter valve (standard item is plastic, modified will be alloy), induction kits, uprated intercoolers ,silicone hoses etc. Any evidence of these suggests a remap.

3.2 V6 looks and sounds better (especially with a full stainless exhaust), but I don’t think they offer much performance over the 225.

my Mum has a 53 plate 225 bhp 1.8T coupe that she’s owned from new – I think it’s got about 90k miles on it, FSH.
it’s had a few problems of late including a new starter motor recently, and a suspension rebuild. it had a minor shunt at one point and wasn’t put back together properly so the engine slipped off it’s mounts but that’s not a reliability thing. it also had to have the manual gearbox rebuilt but that’s down to my Mums’ driving.
I think issues have been mainly not associated with the engine which seems to be very solid.
she still absolutely loves it despite the fact it’s starting to cost money. I’ve driven it a fair few times and it’s a nice place to be, but a little too easy to drive for my tastes.

Tallpaul – Member
3.2 V6 looks and sounds better (especially with a full stainless exhaust), but I don’t think they offer much performance over the 225.

Mine doesn’t have a SS exhaust on it, but I have been told the same about performance between the 3.2 and 225. It’s hard to tell from my side but the grunt of mine is bloody lovely and so smooth. Also I think the 225 is lighter on the front as the engine isn’t as big etc.etc. is that right? The 225 maybe an option, I don’t know what your thoughts are.

But as we’re finding out a FSH is pretty much a must.

Also have a 3.2 DSG, great car if you don’t mind the fuel. Averaged about 32mpg on a steady run to Scotland but more like high 20s normally.

Sounds great though, DSG box is nice and smooth and was comfy as for the 400mile trip to Fort William. Just make sure it selects all gears with the paddles or in semi-auto. Mine had the MechatronicUnit already replaced and came with the £2.5k receipt!!

5) Missfire when not warm, but not when the cars on “choke”. There is a problem with the 3.2, the coolant temp gauge fails and sends the wrong info to the Intake Sensor and over riches the mixture. This causes missfires but only if you start the car and not get it warm, say do a journey from cold of about a mile then stop, then start again and the missfire will appear. Thing with this is it’s very intermittent and only happens about 3-5 times a year. It will clear itself but runs like a dog for about 2mins until it blows out/burns off the fuel. Some people have been told a myriad of fixes for this simple issue, are well documented. Tales of cam chains and sensors and crank sensors all requiring changing are bound to put people off as they’re expensive items to change, but it’s crap it’s the coolant temp sensor failing thats all and a £20 plus labour to fix.

Interesting. I have a 1.8T (though not in a TT) which exhibits similar behaviour and the problem has been very difficult to trace. Throttle body clean is next on my list.

Coolant temp sensor is a common failure on the 1.8t as well (it’s probably the same part).

@ Bikebouy – the weight of the 3.2 lump is cited as a disadvantage over the 1.8t. Not driven a 3.2, but IMO the TT’s not really a car you buy for it’s handling characteristics.

I’ve got a 3.2 56 plate A3 3 door that is top spec ect and it’s ace! I am selling though as I need a van again but I’ve had it a year and it still makes me laugh and when I’m not laughing I’m enjoying the super comfort of the cabin! I know you said TT but I think you’d get more for your money with the A3 and less of the showoff/hairdresser look.. Mine can be bought for 5k it’s got fsh and 65k on the clock 🙂

Been to look at a 3.2 v6 today everything was great apart from the fact I’ve read the timing chain needs replacing at 100k and the car has just done over 100k
How essential is it that it gets changed at that point anyone know as I’ve read replacing the chain is an engine out job and looking at a bill of between 1k and 3k at an Audi dealer

Hmmm.. don’t know to be honest.. but have heard of cars doing 150k with the original chain in. Just make sure the water pump’s been changed at about 65k.

You are right about the cost, about £1000-£1500 from Audi, clearly local garages are cheaper, or specialist Audi garages.

Have you asked the owner if it’s been done?