- Anyone know about Reynolds tubing? 631 versus 853 weight difference
853 is stronger by volume. I’m sure I’ve found a document with tube thicknesses before. In theory, the 853 frame can be made lighter for the same strength. But it depends if the different grade tubes are drawn differently.
IIRC 853 Pro is thinner walled than 853. I’ve a feeling 853 is same weight but stronger than 631.Posted 5 years agoroadie_in_denialMember
All the knowledge anyone should ever need.Posted 5 years ago
so 631 is 853 without the heat-treatment, so weight will be the same.Posted 5 years agoontorMember
I doubt you’d notice particularly by the time you had it built up. I did have a frame built from coloumbus ultrafoco a little while ago which was noticeably light but by the time you’ve built it up it’s lost in the noise. The advantage of the 853 is in it’s UTS so you can in theory push thinner wall thickness but to be honest a usable frame has a lot of tube thickness redundency just so you don’t ding it with a careless sneeze. It depends on how the bike is designed etc as to how it affects the handling.Posted 5 years ago
That said you’re clearly looking at a custom frame in which case you might as well go primarily for the framebuilder you like or if you have the choice, go for 853 for the badge and the perceived “prestige” in case you have to sell it.
I’m getting a frame built by Bob Jackson and probably dropping in to order it tomorrow.
When I asked them about weight they just said ‘its neither here nor there’ and more or less said they didn’t understand people ordering steel frames and then trying to make them stiff like carbon (which I respect as they could have an extra £200 out of me for 853), however as the time approaches my weight weenie head keeps kicking in.
Half a pound won’t bother me, more than that has me thinking.Posted 5 years ago
Ben, stiffness is what you could consider. A light steel frame is rarely a very stiff one. And I’d agree, why have a very stiff steel road frame unless you’re super-strong? Dario Pegoretti knows more than I do though… I like a bit of spring but it depends how hard you want to push it to feel that spring. Going from 28.6 top and 31.8mm down tubes to 31.8 top and 34.9 down makes quite a difference imo, but doesn’t add enough weight for me to really care about it.
If you then want a lighter or equal weight bike with those larger tubes, 853 lets you go thinner wall and keep the durability up.
‘its neither here nor there’
I’d agree, but I’d also expect a builder to give some idea, or be able to work it out and give me guidance on the options on stiffness vs weight compared to a stock (or customer’s existing) frame. I got a frame from a builder who was a bit vague once – it wasn’t what I was after so for the second one I figured it out and did the numbers myself )Posted 5 years ago
They weren’t vague, more a case that my 4 and 6 year old boys were with me tearing up up the showroom so it was a briefer conversation than I’d have liked.
They did suggest swapping out the chainstays for 725 for some stiffness when climbing.
The other dilemma is silver or black and what colour lug lining?Posted 5 years ago
swapping out the chainstays for 725 for some stiffness when climbing
Unless the 725 stay is bigger than a crmo one, it won’t be stiffer. Reynolds chainstays (esp in the round-oval-round shape) are pretty stiff but 525 and 725 versions are both the same dimensions. I’d have to look up the wall thickness but the 725 could be thinner wall, so an almost undetectable amount less stiff.Posted 5 years ago
I’m not trying to discredit a builder here, only to clarify what is meant when tube grade and proerties are discussed (lessons from a not-great custom experience here)MacavityMember
a top tube for example:
BX5050 or BX2060
one of them is 631 and the other is 853, they are both the same diameter 28.6mm they are both the same length 635mm etc etc they both weigh the same amount but one has been heatreated to a higher UTS.Posted 5 years ago
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