4stroke is just regular fuel with a separate sump of lubrication oil that’s not introduced via the fuel.

A whacker won’t get regular use I’m sure in a domestic setting so you could go Aspen fuel but I would favour just draining the tank between uses.

I’m guessing you have hired this machine so surely if you don’t know much about them they would have given you a demonstration on how to start, use it and switch it off

It will be normal petrol no oil needed

A two stroke engine eg a Stihl saw or chainsaw will need two stroke oil added to the petrol

They are known as vibrating plates or Wacker plates not whacker due to the German company Wacker . A bit like a Hoover for a vacuum cleaner

Is it old? Does it mean 4 star rather than 4 stroke? You can get lead substitute additive I think for older engines.

If it’s from Aldi the. EU regs dictate it cannot require leaded fuel -dating back to about 1989.

And quite possibly even cannot even  be 2stk although I didn’t keep up to date on that discussion

And if it states gasoline then it’s unleaded you need.

If it’s new. Make sure the engine has oil in it. (It’ll be a separate filler as a 4stk will have a sump of lubricating oil unlike a 2stk)

Just petrol, same as a lawnmower. On the website in the last picture you can spot the blue/green head of the dipstick – again same as mower or car it has a sump of oil to cool and lubricate the cylinder.

It’s designed to be used the same way up all the time and no need for lightweight like a chainsaw or brush cutter that would be 2-stroke. Those have no oil sump due to the range of movement and to keep weight down and rely on oil in the fuel for lubrication that in turn reduces heat.

I have a 4-stroke engine. It’s in my car. I buy fuel for it from a petrol station. HTH. 🙂

Joking aside, it seems wildly unlikely that it would specify four-star fuel, pre-unleaded days [**]/[****] was like comparing regular vs super (well, shit vs regular) and that notion went out long before I was old enough to drive.

2-stroke fuel is a mix of regular petrol and oil.

This won’t, I’m sure, affect the OP but there are also some Stihl tools that have what they call 4-Mix engines. These are 4 stroke engines that use premix fuel and have no engine oil sump.

Screwfix sell fuel stabilisers design to stop the petrol going off between uses.

Mostly lawnmowers that sit in a shed and get nice and warm so the volatilities gas off and the fuel goes bad.

I did a Google search for “Instruction manual for scheppach-hp110s-petrol-compactor”.  The manufacturer doesn’t have manuals on their website https://www.scheppach.com/en/service/contact-forms but you can at least contact them if you lose yours.  I found what I think you have on a dodgy-looking website (ManualsLib).

Page 3 has drawings with things numbered, the English language part of the manual starts at page 22.

Page 26 section 10 includes instructions for checking the engine oil.

Page 22 section 2 “Device description”(figure A)” does not seem to include the engine oil dipstick, so I’m afraid that you are on your own to find something that looks like a dipstick.

Page 22 section 3 “Technical data” gives the motoroil volume as max 0,6 litre, which I think is German for 0.6 litres, or 600 millilitres.

Page 29 gives instructions for changing the motor oil – you could use the refilling part of the changing instructions for the first fill.  Doesn’t specifically explain where to put the oil, but it does refer to “the filling cap (measuring stick)”, so it might be a case of using a funnel to pour it down the dipstick tube, which would be awkward, but for 600ml, shouldn’t be the end of the world.  I’m afraid that I couldn’t find a diagram of this part of the engine.

Yes, I know the manual has referred to it as “engine oil”, “motoroil” and “motor oil”.  I think that they all refer to the same thing, and that they are the result of a less-than-perfect translation.

Recommended engine oil is SAE 10W-30 or 10W-40 (depending on the operating temperature).  If you are out buying engine oil, something like Halfords own should do fine.

If you want to be more picky about engine oil, check https://www.opieoils.co.uk/t-api-car-engine-oil-specifications-explained.aspx or https://www.valvolineglobal.com/en-eur/understanding-oil-standards-acea-specifications/ There is a bewildering selection of higher specification that car manufacturers require because car engines are now very advanced.  If I’m reading those websites correctly, might be sensible to look for something like:

• API (stands for American Petroleum Institute) ‘S’ specification of ‘L’ or later:  will say something like “API SM”
• and/or ACEA (stands for European automobile manufacturers association, but in French “Association des Constructeurs Européens d’Automobiles”), grade A/B, probably A3/B3.

Oh, and Page 28, section 13 “Storage” gives instructions for draining the fuel tank completely, starting the engine, and running it until it stops.  DON’T BE LAZY.

You mentioned that you don’t know much about this sort of thing, so with apologies, and at the risk of insulting your intelligence, I will write this:  Do drain the petrol and run the engine.  DO NOT DRAIN THE ENGINE OIL AND RUN THE ENGINE!  Would be a very quick way of making an expensive, useless garden ornament.

I tile for a living so approached mine from that point of view.  I’d be surprised if you could cut accurately enough with a petrol disc cutter for porcelain unless the joints are all at the edges and relatively unseen, mine is laid at 4mm joint, so accuracy is quite important, but you can always try.

If you have access to a 4” grinder, toolstation sell a decent dry tile cutting blade for about £8-£10 which would be much better.

Tape doesn’t help with cutting porcelain IMO, other than to help you see the marks, I prefer to see what I’m cutting directly.

The Kingspan is a good shout as support is important, defo cut face up.

4 stroke engine not 4 * fuel

90 octane

Unleaded do fine

@Blazin-saddles

how do you find the  36000?  had my 24000 for at least 15 years and while its still a good saw been thinking for a few years i need to replace it as its just not big enough

We use that for trailbuilding – standard unleaded works well in it…certainly has for the last 3.5 years.