Don’t TF strip/check/fettle all the stuff they sell before they ship it out? Could have been a very wise move buying from TF…

stamion…

I have the exact sample problem… did you get a solution to this??

dan

Apologies for slight hijack but is there any discernible difference in performance between the basic RC model and the posher ones? I’ve heard differing reports. And do the Pikes generally benefit from bedding in or is out-of-the-box as good as they get? Ta.

Not quite; it’s got eight or so steps of adjustable LSC damping between open and locked.

I’ve heard some (or maybe just one) claim that they could tell the difference between their RCT3 and RC but every available info point towards the internals being exactly the same except for the dial.

Top end assembly of the RC charger damper is different to the RCT3

Anyone got a solution to this, I’ve tried stripping down the air side and cleaned out excess grease, tried pulling up on the bars with no pressure in and rode it hard yet it still sags in about 10% unweighted and there is a clunk on top out

don’t think it’ll affect suck down but have you tried this? there do seem to be air migration problems with solo air forks, my revs used to build up mighty pressure in the lowers, didn’t know about this burping technique though

I guess if you suffer this problem you could ask Fisher to fit dual air internal with a part-contribution?

“Top end assembly of the RC charger damper is different to the RCT3”

what does that mean in real terms LoCo? I’m trying to decide if i build a bike which forks i’ll fit, but can’t see compelling reasons to buy the more expensive ones.

Not sure Hora, thats why i was asking 🙂

I agree in principle though, most of the time these features such as travel assist and super damping are set and left alone at best, or not used at all.

what does that mean in real terms LoCo? I’m trying to decide if i build a bike which forks i’ll fit, but can’t see compelling reasons to buy the more expensive ones.

Look at the blow up diagrams in the manual/spare parts catalogue. The top of the damper is different as the RC version doesn’t have the threshold lever, so it doesn’t need all the associated gubbins.

Hello one and all,

Ok I bought some 2015 pikes and have been using them for two weeks. Set the sag at 30% and thought I’d break them in for a while then add tokens etc

Anyhow, yesterday I noticed that the forks were stuck at around 25% unweighted.

Have followed this thread, pumped up the forks to 150psi and cycled them a few times. They are now stuck on around 5% . Is that right? Sorry for my nubeness. 150mm BTW

haven’t tried that. but i guess my first question is that they are on 5%, that is not right? There is still air trapped?

thanks

zip tie trick worked thanks. Sucks (pun intended) that you have to do that to get expensive forks working properly. as a side note, i put a token in, dropped air pressure, forks work so much better

same issue here with a SID World Cup XX. Fork didn’t want to move past 80mm even with 150psi.
Solution:
I pumped to 175psi.
Then while holding it wide open I pressed the air valve. Then I pressed all the way down and took all the air.
Then I open it all the way up again and pressed all the way and took the air.
It seems that the bottom and upper chamber equalize when the fork is at 100% open, so it felt like, equalize, then press and release air.
Repeated it 10 times, then pumped to 60psi and it stayed at 100mm as it should.

Hey, I have a similar problem on my Revelation Solo Air (2014). The uppers won’t come out all the way. They sit (unloaded) at around 5% of the sag-scale.

When I noticed this and an overall bad behavior of the fork, I did a full service. I didn’t change any sealings/hardware but took everything apart and put in new grease, damper-oil and lowers-oil. The fork seems to respond much better now but it still sits at around (little lower than) 5%.

I then tried every suggestion I could find online for this problem (burping the fork, pulling etc.). Nothing helped. Only when I release the air from the lower “hidden” (under the air bolt at the bottom of the lowers) air valve, the fork pops back up all the way. But when i but weight on the fork and release it, it only goes back up to around 5 % again.

Finally I took everything apart again, checked that I didnt put too much grease in (blocking of the air bypass) and put it back together – no luck.

While I still do not fully understand how the airflow in the upper tube works, my only suggestion is now to change the seals – does that make sense? Could it help?

By the way: When I cleaned the air tube, I noticed some debris (not sure if thats the right word in English?) on the inside of the tube on some spots. I wasnt able to take a pic… It was really hard to clean (using alcohol and a rag on a dowel) and I was not able to get it all off. I can only imagine, it is rubber that came off the seals (but they looked OK…). Any suggestions how I can get that stuff of? Maybe this is part of my problem…

I would really appreciate your help 🙂 Looking forward to your answers…

Buy some Fox’s 😉

If you look back to the first page of the thread it is clearly explained that the problem lies inside the airspring. The airsping lies entirely inside the LHS station; any tricks involving letting air in/out of the lowers will not affect the working of the airspring. There are two plungers inside the airspring that form two air chambers. When the fork is loaded in a particular position the air in the positive chamber can move (via the air transfer dimple) into the negative one. If the dimple is blocked with grease then the two chambers can’t re-equalise leaving too much pressure in the negative chamber. Rockshox do put too much grease on the plunger O-rings.

So, enough pressure in the lowers to affect the airsping pressurised to 6 bar? How would the fork compress with all that pressure in the lowers?
Clearly some pressure is generated in the lowers when the fork is compressed and this might cause some issues but the suckdown effect is caused by the issue with the airspring.

When you filled in the damper, was the rod pulled all the way out? If you miss this, when the rod is fully extended it will create a vacuum in the damper which opposes the airspring in the other leg, causing the sag you have noticed.