Home Forums Bike Forum 12 speed upgrade – old 10 speed deore

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  • 12 speed upgrade – old 10 speed deore
  • 2
    burko73
    Full Member

    Hi

    I’ve got a Genesis Longitude that’s a good few yrs old and on its original deore 2x 10 speed group set. Looking to replace said groupset or at least some of it and keep/ move the still good bits onto another bike.

    Can I upgrade to 1 x 12 speed? I rarely use the granny gear except for a bale out gear and simplifying things/ cables  will be helpful. Is it poss to get a micro spline free hub for the old non boost deore 10 sp hubs?

    also – can I use my existing chainset if necessary with a new chainring?

    also – is the slx mech/ shifter noticeably better?

    1
    nickjb
    Free Member

    Do you actually want 12 speeds? It’ll be easier to make 1×10 set up. You can get wide range 10 speed cassettes and your existing shifter and chainset will be fine. You’ll want a new rear mech for the wide range and ideally a NW chainring.

    kelvin
    Full Member

    12 speed is going to mean new everything (including wheels).

    10 speed Deore will be the cheapest route to 1x (it’s what I use).

    11 speed Deore can give you a wider range with only a bit more expense than 10 spd.

    ————————

    If you do buy a new shifter… that tends to be the best place to spend the extra money (they last, are out of the way of damage, it’s where most of the “feel” of the shift lives, and with some generations higher groupset shifters have more shifting options… I pair a Saint shifter with Deore rear mech & cassette ).

    chakaping
    Full Member

    You could get wider range gears by buying a 10 speed Deore 11-46 cassette like this:

    https://www.merlincycles.com/shimano-deore-m4100-cassette-10-speed-221879.html

    And why not just get this cheap Deore chainset?

    https://www.merlincycles.com/shimano-deore-mt511-single-12-speed-chainset-with-chainring-299204.html

    Then you might need a new mech to handle the bigger rear cog, and a new chain obvs.

    I don’t think there’s much to be gained from having the extra cogs, I’m still on 11sp and it’s not held me back at all.

    steezysix
    Free Member

    I have a longitude and ditched the 2x pretty quickly as I always felt like I was in the wrong gear at the front.

    As long as your shifter and derailleur are still in good condition, you could do what I’ve done for pretty low cost. Certainly much cheaper than an 11 speed setup.

    I replaced the front rings with a 30t Race Face N/W ring (kept the stock cranks), then used a cheap derailleur hanger extender and a 11-46t Shimano cassette at the back. New chain if necessary.

    You’ll lose a bit of top end speed but I find the gear spread to be ideal for bikepacking use. Ditching the front derailleur also means you can get a proper 27.5×3.0″ tyre in the back too!

    1
    infovore
    Full Member

    There are 12-speed cassettes that fit HG hubs; SRAM NX, notably, and then some third party (Subrace) ones. Top gear is 11-tooth, not 12,  but it’s possible.

    I seem fine with 11-speed Deore and 11-51.

    Really, the upgrade is going to be going 1x, not the number of cogs out back. You can get to 11-46 on 1×10 and keep your right shifter. The change will be your ratios are more spread out, of course…

    1
    dave_h
    Full Member

    12 speed is going to mean new everything (including wheels).

    No it doesn’t.  There are plenty of Hyperglide compatible 12 speed cassettes out there.

    In reality, you’ll end up buying much the same components if you go 1×10, 1×11 or 1×12.

    1×10 I assume you’ll want a wider range cassette, probably a mech extender to clear your mech of the wider cassette, chainring, and new chain as well as new gear cable inner and maybe outer.  Depending on how worn your current mech/shifter are, it could be an opportune time to refresh.

    1×11 or 1×12 will be a new cassette, chain, chainring, mech, shifter and cables (new shifter will have a new inner with it)

    1×12 will be more ‘future proof’.  1×11 will give you almost the same gear range but for slightly less money.

    dave_h
    Full Member

    is the slx mech/ shifter noticeably better?

    Honestly, no.  SLX mech looks a little nicer (IMO) and I’m sure Shimano would argue it’s made of stronger components.  The shifter is pretty much identical … again at least from an external, visual, performance feel perspective.

    1
    FOG
    Full Member

    Another vote for 1×10 Deore. One of my bikes has this, the other 1x11Xt and there is very little real world  difference between the two. 12spd will just be more expensive with very few benefits.

    1
    nickjb
    Free Member

    1×12 will be more ‘future proof’

    Not so sure about this. Shimano seem to be making a new range of drivetrains in 10 speed at the low to mid level. 13 speed will be out at some point at the top end but I think we will still see a lot of 10 speed around.

    On a personal note after the CRC fire sale I have enough 10 speed to keep me going for a very long time 🙂

    nickc
    Full Member

    10 or 11 speed is considerably cheaper than pretty much everything 12 speed as well.

    1
    cookeaa
    Full Member

    I’m running 1×10 Deore on a couple of bikes with M5100 rear mechs and a microshift 11-48 cassette on either (they’ll accommodate up to a 51t though). All parts bought cheap in various sales.

    general benefits; I can still run old HG hubs, I didn’t need new shifters and the 5100 Mechs mean I have a future upgrade path to 11 speed if I want (allegedly they work with 12 speed too?).

    The main question normally is what type of crank does it have and how available are N/W rings to suit?

    I don’t reckon 12 speed is a substantial enough benefit to most people to go out of your way to upgrade an existing bike, obviously if buying a new bike it’s a different proposition, but if your just renewing an existing drivetrain keep changes minimal, going to 1x is perfectly viable with 10 speed though.

    dave_h
    Full Member

    10 or 11 speed is considerably cheaper than pretty much everything 12 speed as well.

    RRP price, absolutely but keep your eye out on eBay and all of the usual suspect sites and new 12 speed stuff can be had for very little more, particularly at Deore or NX level.

    burko73
    Full Member

    As steezy has mentioned my motivation for 1x is that I’ve got 3.0 coronados on it and don’t want to lose a low gear for loaded bikepacking on big nasty climbs. Not worried about going fast, the bike is my “4×4 pick up sort of bike” so top end speed isn’t a massive worry.

    1
    burko73
    Full Member

    I want to move the best bits of the existing 2x groupset to my wife’s genesis latitude as that’s 3 x ! I think 1 x 11 is the way to go then. Need to make sure I get the right gear ratios to not leave myself short when climbing.

    any good 11 sp bargains about anywhere?

    kelvin
    Full Member

    Nothing crazy in the UK right now… Merlin have the 11-51 M5100 cassette and the rear mech you need to go with it, at okay prices.

    https://www.merlincycles.com/shimano-deore-m5100-cassette-11-speed-265331.html

    https://www.merlincycles.com/shimano-deore-m5100-rear-derailleur-11-speed-265337.html

    chakaping
    Full Member

    If going 11sp, I’d suggest getting an XT shifter for a better overall feel – and I think it might do multiple gears quicker.

    alpin
    Free Member

    Anything above 10spd is unnecessary, imo….

    10spd has better, crisper shifting and with wide range cassettes negates the need for 2x upfront.

    GF’s gravel bike has Tiagra and it makes better shifts without any need for adjustment compared to my 11spd 105.

    Old mtb with Sunrace 10spd wide cassette das more than adequate.

    dave_h
    Full Member

    Gearsets

    11 speed Deore 11-46 hyperglide cassette £105 – https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/386999786469

    12 speed Deore 11-52 hyperglide cassette £106 – https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/196323909821

    misteralz
    Free Member

    Wider range cassette, XT or Saint shifter to get the double or triple up/downshift on the one stroke, maybe a good used/NOS M781 or 786 mech. I’ve pretty much landed on this formula and have an alert set up for M781/6 on my local marketplace site as it works so well.

    burko73
    Full Member

    Thread update…

    Bought a 11-51 Deore 11 speed cassette – HG and a Deore rd- m5100 sgs rear mech and 11 sp deore shifter as well as a new kmc chain.

    I also bought a new narrow wide chainring for the old crank but got the wrong bcd. So many sites don’t quote the bcd of their chainrings which is a pain.

    Ive just tried to set it up with the old deore chains with the std 36t chainring.

    Couple of issues;

    1. The chain contacts the tyre when on the big sprocket.
    2. The mech seems too close to the cassette. When shifting down the mech gets in the way of the chain somehow. might be ive not set the cable tension yet but I’m not super clear as to where the mech sits with these new Shimano 11 sp mechs. The longitude is obvs a horizontal dropout and the axle is as far forward as it can go. Do I need a mech hanger extender?

    Cheers.

    Burko

    1
    pacman404
    Free Member

    I put Microshift AdventX 11-48 cassette on my old hardtail, which I’d previously bodged from 3×9 to 2×9 22-36 (still on original Shimano triple crankset).

    Very happy with the Microshift stuff 10 gears and the range from 11-48 is plenty.

    burko73
    Full Member

    pacman – I’m a bit beyond buying micro shift but good to hear….

    burko73
    Full Member

    What’s the limit for a front chainring with a 51 tooth rear cassette? Any ideas?

    tthew
    Full Member

    I don’t think there are limits for front chairing sizes unless you are going massive and it fouls the chainstay.

    For your other problems, is the 36t chairing the inner one? Put the new chairing on the outer tabs, the chain line should still be OK.

    For 2, sounds like the B screw isn’t set right. Follow a setup guide on YouTube once you’ve got all the new bits installed.

    burko73
    Full Member

    Yep 2. Was  the b screw.

    I’ve got the chainring on the outer of the two ring positions, ie not on the old granny ring position. I think it needs to go out more as it’s fouling the tyre in the biggest sprocket.

    interested to hear if anyone else has successfully run 11sp with 3.0 tyres on a longitude. It may be the tyres are just too wide.

    tthew
    Full Member

    Tyre size was going to be my next suggestion. Yeah, I think you’ve just hit the extremes of different compatibility limits on parts that frame was never intended for.

    burko73
    Full Member

    I think you’re right although the frame was marketed as being able to take a 3” tyre IIRC. Steezy on here is running one by and 3.0” tyres so be interested to hear how/ what. I’ve got coronados on mine on the original scraper rims.

    Might even dial in the limit screw and run it 10 sp for a while. Would a wider chainset help? Currently running  the original but with only the big ring. Was going to put a 32 on there but might go nuts and buy a deore chainset as a 30t chainset is only around £50 and I’ll always use it on another project if needs be.  Someone mentioned that you can also add another bb cup spacer on the drive side to push the chain line out a bit. Might try that?

    tthew
    Full Member

    If you put an extra spacer in the chain line to the largest sproket might be horrible, but it is a simple thing to try. Possily you’ll have to choose which edge case configuration you prefer, or you may get lucky after some experimentation. Unlikely anyone has tried your exact set-up before.

    1
    steezysix
    Free Member

    @burko73 – I was running the original WTB Scraper 35 rims with Ranger 3.0″ tyres, I’ve now switched to slightly wider LB carbon rims and 2.8″ Schwalbe Johnny Watts which come up slightly narrower, but not much.

    Up front it’s a Raceface 30t N/W ring (that has the female threads built in) and it’s mounted on the 104bcd part of the original crankset. I think I remember that the 2x crankset has boost chainline, not 100% on that though!

    Out back it’s the original 10sp derailleur mounted on a Ali/ebay extender with a 10sp chain and a Shimano 11-46t cassette.

    In lowest gear I’ve got about 1cm of space between chain and tyre, can’t remember it rubbing when I had the 3.0″ Rangers on there, at least not enough to cause issues.

    Not sure why you’re getting tyre rub, unless 11sp cassettes are wider than 10sp? I though they are the same but have closer spaced cogs…

    Hope that helps, I’ve (hopefully) added some photos, let me know if you need me to take any more! And yes, my bike is dirty, I just got in from riding…

    Cheers

    Holy sh*t, it actually worked!?

    burko73
    Full Member

    cheers thew and steezy.

    what shifter are you using steezy? are you on the original BB? I didn’t think the original BB/ crank was boost? What’s the width between your outer faces of the bb cups?

    burko73
    Full Member

    is an 11sp cassette (HG 11-51) likely to be wider than a 10SP 11-36?

    burko73
    Full Member

    surely those aliexpress links must be a con?  £65 for an slx groupset (without brakes and cranks). Says doesn’t ship to my address when I click through! Looks iffy.

    steezysix
    Free Member

    Original 10sp shifter, still going strong! Changed the bb a couple of times, but replaced with the same HT2 style. My frame has a 73mm bb tube and I have one spacer on the drive side. Overall width of the cups is just under 100mm (rough measurement)

    I don’t think it’s a full boost chainset, but I remember reading something about having a boost chainline, possibly to clear the plus tyres? I might be imagining it though.

    burko73
    Full Member

    I didn’t think it had a boost chainline. Ive got the same model with the 73mm bb shell and a drive side spacer already. I’ve got 3.0 Coronados mounted on the original scraper rims. might just revert back to 10speed and get a cheap 11-46.  does the original long cage mech need the extender?

    burko73
    Full Member

    I guess the fact it was a double means the big ring must be aligned with the boost spec chainline?

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