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That is one very nice looking watch!
Very nice Derek_starship, welcome to Samurai club...
Like wise Derek, very nice.
nice! lovely dial Derek!
i managed to get ro crystal palace jewellers and told Daryll my SMP seemed erratic on its time keeping, going +3 s/day to -24 sec/day depending on orientation. he stuck it on his machine and for a moment it looked fine...then it began to drift....then flipped it over and..oh dear poorly! amplitude was only 70 and the trace very poor. service time. he guessed it may have aloose jewel in the balance wheel. £65 ish and 2-3 weeks. 'beats' omega
Just treated myself to Citizen Diver. I've been after one for a while and saw one at a good price. I'm too lazy to wind a watch

ElShal - that Citizen is a fine looking piece, not unlike my SPORK in some ways. Nice clear easy to read dial, and a good solid build. Nice one!
Timegrapher app is a cheap way of checking amplitude and getting a beat trace. Need a mic set of headphones and an absolutely silent room with mic taped to watch. Does make micro adjustments to regulator easier to comprehend that micro movements can change from +10 to -10s/d
Thanks Wally, I wondered if there was an app.
That smiths looks nice.
@CountZero - thanks. It's a ProMaster BN0150-61E.
Citizen aren't everyone's cup of tea but simple things like the seconds hand being aligned with the seconds markers really impress me and cater for my slight OCD. The crown at 4pm is great as it avoids that annoying digging in to the back of my hand. The bezel is also aligned correctly with no play in it. I really like it.
There are lots of reviews out there and comparisons with a variety of Seiko divers. I also really like Eco-Drives hence my choice.
Seconds hand being aligned with the seconds marker is a must.
That's not OCD, it's quality.
Although I did get a bit extreme about it.
Casio Oceanus
Had the function that it checked the second hands alignment and micro corrected it, automatically. Cost a bit mind and of course flipped it after 6 months, just a bit too big at 41mm for my wrists.
Quick q - I have an omega sea master chronograph automatic from around 2002 ish I think.
The screw down crown has broken so it no longer screws down, it still works fine for adjusting the time and manually winding etc, it just won't screw down. I'm guessing the thing it screws onto has snapped off.
I presume Its not going to be water resistant anymore?
Also the rotating bezel is a bit loose, I'm guessing the ratchet mechanism(or however it works) has worn.
Are either of these issues an easy DIY fix, or am I best sending it away?
Any ideas what this is likely to cost to get repaired? From omega or from an independent?.
correct it isn't water proof without the crown screwed down. Its likely strpped the thread, probably the thread on the crown (hopefully) in which case a decent repairer can simply swap in a new crown. if the thread in the case is damaged i guess the repair is more complex, dunno.
Bezel, maybe a broken spring or something in the ratchet, quite possibly an easy repair for a shop but not something I'd do at home, you need a tool to pull it off for a start so a trip to the shop would cost less.
Iirc, it still has rubber seals in there so while it won't be waterproof to 30atm it'll be as waterproof as your average watch without a screwdown crown. Someone I know forgot to screw down their crown after adjusting and didn't notice for a couple of weeks and had plenty if contact with water but no ingress.
The crown threads onto a threaded tube which threads into the case I think on the SMP. So either the inside of the crown or the outside off the tube is stripped. Possibly just the first thread may be damaged from cross threading. I would be absolutely amazed if the tube was broken off, I can't see how you could generate enough force to do so. With a loupe and the crown all the way out you may be able to see. It may be possible to chase the thread on the tube to repair. Not really a diy as it requires opening the watch to remove the crown. Replacing the crown or tube at that point is easy.
The bezel you can totally diy. Probably the spring (bezel ratchets work very similar to freehubs). Pop of the bezel with either the proper tools or a knife (!) Plenty of opinions on which. Replace parts as needed. Be warned, a new bezel was over $300 US last time I looked. Plenty of videos on how that is done if you Google.
thanks all, I guess I'll take it to a local watch repair place and see what they say.
It's been like this for years though, as it still works and looks fine, so I imagine I'll take the lazy option and just not bother getting it fixed.
This watch was stolen from me in a burglary in 2007, I didnt expect to see it again until I got a call from the police a few years later, in 2012 I think, they'd done a raid on some scrotes house, and in the bottom of a wardrobe found a load of watches (some good ones, rolex's etc), mine was in there with all my paperwork including my mobile phone number on the original receipt, so they called me up and reunited me with it. So I blame the scrote for the damage...
So then, talk Speedmasters to me. I keep being tempted, tried one on today and liked it, seems very good value in an odd way. Anyone got one? Still wear it/like it?
Slight highjack if I may? I've got my dad's old Bulova Accutron tuning fork watch. I'd like to show off the mechanism but it's got a normal steel back. Is there anywhere that could make a display back?
Lunge, if you like it isn't that enough?
It's a bit of a classic, a watch that holds value, but a watch that costs alot to service. That's about as far as my knowledge goes.
Can anyone recommend a strap tool kit for removing links, spring bars etc??
@ElShalimo - there are loads available through Amazon and eBay, they’re all pretty similar, but one of the more expensive and comprehensive ones might be what you’re after. I’ve got one, about as basic as it gets, but I’m probably going to get one like this:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07G2N1QJ5/ref=s9_acsd_top_hd_bw_bDV1Qd_c_x_1_w?pf_rd_m=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE&pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-11&pf_rd_r=0256HYP7MT38Z4FDZV4M&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=c681fef1-4618-5ba7-85be-3f928958240e&pf_rd_i=199486031
So then, talk Speedmasters to me. I keep being tempted, tried one on today and liked it, seems very good value in an odd way. Anyone got one? Still wear it/like it?
Wooo let's go! I love talking Speedies.
I'll assume you're referring to the Professional model from here -
I've had mine 2 years now and have worn it nearly every day. It's a great watch with an incredible history and heritage.
Value for money - some proper movement nerds would argue it's not terribly good value for money - it uses a (classic, well proven) movement that was first released in 1968, and hasn't really changed much since then, only incremental upgrades. Some would argue with all the advancements movements have made recently, the 1861 is antiquated and outdated. For others, however, that's part of the charm.
The flip side to this, is that the movement is well proven as a reliable, strong workhorse movement. It's not a watch that needs to be babied, it's a proper toolwatch designed for everyday wear. If it was strong enough for the dudes at NASA it'll be plenty strong enough for you...
Personally, I love my Speedie. I really enjoy winding it every morning, the dial, the lines. It's great. Super versatile too - it can 'dress up' on a nice leather 2 piece. Dress down on a NATO or retain that 'sport watch' aesthetic on the SS bracelet.
Also - too add on the value for money front -
I am unaware of any other watch that has the pedigree and heritage that the Speedmaster does at the same price or lower. There is no other more 'collectable' watch than the Speedmaster. The Speedie is a watch that can sit alongside Patek, AP, VC etc in a collection and not be out of place.
That is really what you're paying for and where the value is. It's a proper 'watch guy' watch.
Thanks plyphon, exactly what I want to hear. I've got a lovely leather strap that'll work well for it, and they seem to come with a bracelet and a black nato. I'm thinking of the professional with a sapphire crystal, firstly as it's a bit harder wearing and second as it has the clear case back.
Ooo nice, the clear casebacks are so cool - means you get the 1863 movement instead (it's the same as the 1861 but 'decorated' to look nicer through the caseback).
I went hesalite myself - if you've not already I'd ask to see the hesalite side-by-side against the sapphire. Some people don't care for the difference, but others it drives insane!
I’m hovering over the buy button on a Samurai too - got a few Seiko 5s that I like and rotate, but fancy something a little more special and have been looking at various Samurais for an age...
The biggest of my 5s is 42mm - but the Samurai looks quite large on the wrist given it’s only a couple of mm bigger - really like the Save the Ocean special edition that @derek_starship went for, that’s an option and also the black edition version on a rubber strap.
Has anyone used watcho.co.uk? They appear to have bricks and mortar shops around Milton Keynes.
Your Seiko 5 at 42 is very close to the SMP, the Orange Monster and Samurai really don't wear any bigger (the thickness is noticeable initially but you acclimatise very quickly). The Sammy is very comfortable and you will forget its size (and presence) almost immediately. I say that as someone with not very big wrists who initially thought the full size SMP would be to big in use.
Thanks @cromolyolly - that’s really helpful advice (and probably going to cost me!) 😎
So... Save the Ocean on stainless bracelet or the Black Series STO on blue rubber for a little more..?
and probably going to cost me!) 😎
HTH
why not both?😬
HTH again.
I don't have a Speedmaster, but my Dad has had one for a long while. Back around 1998 we were mountain biking in Mammoth and he had a big over the bars crash into a massive pile of gravel. For what ever reason he was wearing the Speedmaster. Scuffed up all the glass, but it buffed out and no problems with it since. I guess if its tough enough for space...
Still looks great today.
About ten years ago I was going to buy a Speedmaster for general cycling duties etc, I then had a reality check and bought a Seiko SKX007 instead, right decision as I soon had an over the bars incident and smashed the watch into a rock, it still sports a nice big gouge in the glass as a memento of the occasion.
Had anyone any experience of Holzkern watches? Made in Austria from natural materials, wood, stone etc. Look quite different and reasonably priced

I’m looking at Speedy Pro at the moment too. Tried both the Hesalite and the Sapphire and prefer the Hesalite. Found the sapphire crystal had a white ring around the edge where it’s domed, plus the Hesalite is about £600 cheaper! It’s a shame they no longer do a Hesalite crystal with an exhibition caseback.
Mrs Kato has okayed the purchase. I’m just trying to justify spending the money
I was the same - once I saw the milky ring I couldn't unsee it (what I was referring too above about 'some not caring for the difference, some it drives insane').
The hesalite has a slightly rounder/more domed profile which (imo) looks better than the squarer profile of the sapphire.
Can't go wrong either way, though. Fantastic watch.
Just to follow up on my purchase, I went for a Hamilton Field Auto. Looks great, and I've been impressed with the accuracy of the modified eta movement - Since setting it last Friday it's running less than a second fast today.
Bought a Nato from timefactors, and another from ebay for £3. Prefer the ebay one... the clasp and keepers are more substantial and overall it looks better.
Had an hour to kill in Manchester airport the other day, so tried on a Tag Carrera Calibre 7. Wasn't buying at the airport, but a quick check of eBay had this for over £1.5k less than list, worn once. No other bidders. 😎 
Since this is a fair bit of general chatter on watch stuff I thought I'd ask a couple of questions. First thinking on lume and advances in other stuff, dials that are ceramic, ceramic bezels, cases too, sapphire glass crystals, gold plated hands.... All these things that high end watches have/are getting seem to mean they won't tarnish, fade or patina in anyway. Is this going to make vintage watches of the future sterile? Is the Tudor bronze bay the perfect polar opposite?
Secondly, Basel world is a month away, anybody hoping for anything particular? Who will steal the show?
Oh and I love the blue dial of the holzkern above, I could stare at that for a long time.
I'm seeing a lot of rumors around a few Rolex movement upgrades on some lines.
Lunge - i've got a Speedmaster Auto reduced that I'm going to be selling shortly. Message me if you're interested.
plyphon, that is their way, evolution! black bezel gmt still has the old movement so could/should get the newer one that is in the pepsi (and batman?) does the black bezel sub date and sub have an old movement too? I chatted to the Rolex guy in Harrods a good while who told me about the teaser video Tudor have done which hints at a Tudor Sub, if that is allowed then he reckoned it will only be because Rolex will upgrade their own sub significantly. I don;t think he 'knew', I think he was just a keen watch guy like anybody else, but it makes some sense.
does the black bezel sub date and sub have an old movement too?
Yeah - it does.
On another forum someone said they went to Harrod's last weekend and they had stocks of no-date subs. I'm going to pop in tomorrow to try my luck. Reading between the lines, it could be that Rolex is flushing current stocks ready for the movement upgrade....*dons tinfoil hat*
I'll be slightly put out if they do/did, since I registered my interest there for that only last month. Perhaps it's not stock as such, but watches in display cases awaiting collection? I'm hoping it does get an upgrade and I get lucky to get an early upgraded/new model though.
I wonder if Rolex would do something more dramatic....a ceramic case? It isn't their way though
I get the feeling places like WoS and Harrods don't take the waiting list very seriously - they must have a near limitless list of buyers who will probably buy a Datejust or a Patek at the same time as their Sub to bother with mere mortals like myself.
If I make it there tomorrow I'll let you know what they say.
Definitely! My experience there, and in Wempe, was 'we don't have a waiting list, you can register an interest, we make NO promises'. If you go tomorrow, I spoke to Sonny, he wears a PO even though he sells Rolex and I enjoyed chatting watches with him.
Well? did you?
Hey -
So we did pop to Soho area but got a call from some friends watching the rugby around Tower Hill before I got to go watch shopping! I was keen for a beer and so was the Mrs so we went and got set in for the game. (Wish I'd gone watch shopping instead, it was a crap game!)
This weekend I'll try again .... !
Ah well, watches skills be fun, I'd put a good social first too!
Ahh biscuits...
Spotted a seller on eBay selling Orange faced Seiko Samurai which worked out around 200 quid delivered. Didn't think much until a few more popped up in my suggested items which were waaaaay more expensive. By the time I went back the seller (unsurprisingly) had sold all they had.
Watched an episode of Ainsley's Carribbean cooking today . I noticed he was wearing a lovely dark blue sea master with a subtle stripey face .
What's the proper/official name for the Omega stripey face?
wave pattern I think
Put a watch on eBay last week, sold in 30 mins, I think I might have under priced it. I was working on 50 % on walk out door plus 10% a year. Anyhow, buyer delighted!
That's the second hand bike formula, what was the watch, and how much did it go for?
I must confess I know nothing of This guy, but having just come across his youtube I can tell that's about to change! Roger W Smith, high end watch maker
I can across him thanks to another youtube channel...rather different. Bark and Jack. its just a guy, a rolex fan and coffee drinker, talking watches, but I've found him watcable...enough ego and opinion to b interesting but othrwise just an ordinary watch fan I'd say.
Oh and to skip the president's into go to 5:07
Watched an episode of Ainsley’s Carribbean cooking today . I noticed he was wearing a lovely dark blue sea master with a subtle stripey face .
What’s the proper/official name for the Omega stripey face?
If you mean the straight stripes on the Seamaster AT* - it's 'teak'. (some guff about yacht decks - 'tis lovely though 🙂 )
*this one

Thats the one!
That is a lovely Omega.
They also do it in a black which is incredible.
Mikertroid, they scrapped the horrendous Walter Mitty "Royal Marines Commando" logo.
I also have the original Ray Mears, and the 20 year old one has a better crystal, more domed and better anti-reflective coatings. This finish on the original is also a bit better and "duratech" so probably harder. The numbers are also sharper on the old one, new ones are ever so slightly squashed. Older is 200m compared to 300m.
However, its a very close re-issue.
20 years old version from the web.
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Hamtun H2 (Ti diver with nice lume) went live on Kickstarter last night. I missed out on the 199 price point but just hit order in at 239 which is still decent I reckon.
Have a look. Not due to be sent until Aug / Sept though.
That Hamtun is very smart. Bookmarked for later, (probably not very much later) I really need to stop following this thread.
I know - there's a white and a black dial initally and if there's enough interest theres also a blue dialled version. Not sure which I'll go for. 100 quid "upgrade" also gets you a Swiss Sellita movement of the Seiko NH35 (but you really cant go wrong with the nh35). Oh and sign up for their email as you get 10% off.
https://hamtun.co?rfsn=2204697.cf028d
I don't need it, but I have been keeping my eyes on the Steinhart Ocean One Ti which is a good $800 so I'll just wait until September and this will do the job nicely.
If anyone is keen on the Helm watches, the Khuruburi and Komodo will be out towards the end of March and the Vanuate should be available early April
A white or blue diver, plus my dressier (but not dead formal, that's not really my thing) black face Carrera would be all the watches ever needed I think.
would be all the watches ever needed I think.
C'mon now mate you're only lying to yourself.
Latest Tudor teaser is close as announcement of a new sub coming for Basel!
And I may have a lead on a Hulk...a half chance.
Interesting regarding Tudor Neil I've been drooling over their 'Heritage Black Bay' for a little while now. Been hanging on to see what happens at Basel though..
Anyone know of an independent in Glasgow/Ayrshire? Need a new battery for an Omega.
I'm looking for a Seiko 007 as an everyday watch - eBay ones seem to go for almost new prices and with duty Creation are no cheaper. Doe anyone know any dealers who sell s/h Seiko 007 or similar?
grr! does that work?

if you zoom in and lighten it, the bezel edge is visible and its a bevelled sub bezel
That Hamtung Kraken is gorgeous!
I do not need another watch, I do not need another watch, I do not need another watch...
Oo interesting.
@ Wally, cheers!
Might get mine serviced and it'll do another 20 years! Can't find the original strap for it though 😣
I had stuff I needed to do today so took the afternoon off work, and before heading off to my appointment I had time to walk from work through the West end. My Rolex experiment continued. Aspreys on new bond st first. 'No sir you won't get one.'. I understand they are in short supply, can I perhaps express an interest? ' no so you can't, no, no there's no way you'll get one, bye.'. It felt blunt to the point of rude and I was surprised they didn't try to see if they could sell me something else but no they seemed uninterested. So I walked to Pragnells on mount st. Very different experience, friendly, offered a drink so I had a cuppa. No promises but gave me the impression they could do something and maybe by my birthday (7-8 weeks away). Probably a bit unlikely but they were friendly. I was asking about a GMT, black bezel. The rep got out a just in but not collected bimetal sub to let me try for size and answered my questions about the glide lock clasp. Even let me take a snap of it on the wrist. I then asked about white dialed oyster perpetuals, no white in but he fetched a champagne dialed 36mm and 39mm to try on. They wear smaller than I'd expected. All in all a pleasant 30 mins and I'd go back to Pragnells to spend money, I'll avoid asprey!
Oh and the Pragnells guy said they hadn't had a black bezel GMT for a while which has set him thinking it's possibly going to be discontinued at Basel. He said otherwise they get them 'most weeks'. Either they get a heck of a lot or that's a bit of a stretch I suspect.
If you cannot read this one, you really do need to put the beer down.
There’s always Specsavers... 😬
FS! I was split between a Seiko Prospex or Presage for my b'day (39th, just gone) now due to this thread, I'm split between a Seiko SBGV205 or Omega Mark 2 for my 40th
Classic Singletrack...
I'm currently leaning towards the Seiko as both me and the watch geek at work are fans, but the orange Mark 2 is a bit nice. I guess I've got a year to make my mind up.
Thing is, I'll probably revert back to a Presage as although I could just about afford one of the nicer choices, I couldn't imagine walking around with that much spend on my wrist...plus I could go to Tokyo, find some weird local only Seiko, and have a cool holiday for the same cost.



