[Closed] Spray Painting

I've had a fly land on a bonnet and then try and swim his way out of my lovely lacquer. His legs and wings came off in the process.
This is in a proper pukka spray booth.
What kind of crap do you think will land in your paint?!
Sure ,its doable but will look bloody awful.
If you don't care what it looks like ,brush it on.

What kind of crap do you think will land in your paint?!

Keep an eye out for a land rover with cow hoof prints on the bonnet.

Its all in the prep work, when you apply paint make sure you do it evenly and I am tempeted to say lightly but that is the wrong word.

Can you build a temp spray booth, painted a mates transit in a silage clamp once, came out ok. Wouldnt win any prizes but was sericeable no runs or waves.

I was thinking of building a spray booth out of a couple of cheap gazebos and a roll of plastic sheeting.

£25 each + £30 for the sheeting would be £80.

If your using 2k then i would suggest an air fed mask or at least a good mist vapour disposable.

I would do it in synthetic and get your prep right.

F_M:?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Gerson-2K-Disposable-Paint-Spray-Respirator-Face-Mask-/350690393436?pt=UK_Body_Shop_Supplies_Paint&hash=item51a6c6bd5c

Will you be the Boss Of Gloss,or His Highness Of Dryness?!

Im at work so can't get on ebay. Obviously 3m are going to be the safe option but you will pay a premium.

I shall be the Buddha of bubbles and the Diva of drips.

When I had to paint a van with some synthetic paint it looked spot on when i left it. The next morning i had a run that was 15 foot long.
My finest moment.

roller it with rustoleum paint - flat it back then polish - comes out a lot better than you think it will.

I've got a gun you can borrow!

In 2k paint there is isocynate. I used to work as a painter. Without airfed or at least normal mask and extraction you risk your life. Plus it's not as easy as it looks

Bhopal was isocynate if I recall correctly.

I need to tidy up the landy roof and I have four new doors that need priming and painting. Im getting a quote from a local paintshop, but It's going to be difficult convincing them that this is for an agricultural finish, not concourse... and that I want to do as much prep work as possible to keep the cost down.

Spray cans will cost an arm and a leg.

Have you considered spray-on vinyl?

Just done the boot lid of my MR2 which was a mis-match for the rest of the car. £35 all in, no prep needed other than wiping down the old paint with prep cloths. No polishing at the end either cos it's a matt finish. Don't like it? Peel it off! Easy.

Check out CarDip UK - link [url= http://www.cardipuk.com/ ]HERE[/url]

Does that kit include etching primer? I thought you needed that and a different type of filler for ali landy bodywork?

if you're not going back to metal do you still need a primer? Dumb Qu, but I have no idea. That's what you lot are for.

john - I did consider a vinyl wrap but it looked a bit expensive as I would have to get someone in to do it.
I think I need a tougher finish though, and Im guessing it's not going to be cheap if I need to do 100 sq ft.

that cardip does look smart john.

how tough is it though?

Stoner . Roller it its a landy.

You use a gloss roller and it will come out grand.

Did my roof with rollered hammerite.

Car dip doesnt last long , mate did his fibreglass mccoy kit car

Looks awful and its only been on the road a couple months.

hammerite or smoothright?

And what about in the nooks & corners with a brush, doesnt it look lumpy?

Naw , go look up roller painting on landyzone.

I used plane old hammerite - not the hammered finish one but the smooth one. - but not the tin labled smoothrite

What colour you going for ? Was your bonetti silver ?

Mines was just standard landy cream so i went with off white. Going to do my truck cab black this time when i rebuild.

if you're not going back to metal do you still need a primer? Dumb Qu, but I have no idea. That's what you lot are for.

Its much harder than it looks as it runs easier than you think. you could [ ie i have] easily mess it up.
Lots of thin coats would be my advice

i would hand paint [rollers] it with boat paint personally - you will get a shiny glossy surface [from a few feet away] with a sort of orange peel affect close up - the later depends on what your metal is like in the first place

Yep - Mines a bonatti grey, but Im thinking of going to a plain white roof and doors. Im not painting the bulkhead or the B pillars so they'll be galv coloured.

That leaves the bonnet, wings and rear tub in bonatti until I do something about them. But as you say, rollered hammerite might be the solution then. How far to key it first though?

If its smooth manufacturers primer use a green or red scotch brite.
If its a bit bumpy use 240 dry paper as well. Make sure you get all the corners.

zippy - ?
The landy is currently a metallic grey colour. might be lacquered, cant be sure.

winding the windows down is quicker than masking them.

Id leave it bonatti , if just to disguise the galve bulkhead and b pillars.

It will be an object of desire once galvied

unfortunately that's an expensive option. To maintain the proper bonatti metallic grey paint job will require a paint shop.

How far to key it first though?

great.
Im assuming one ought to do it by hand and not just by wanging 400 grit on the random orbital sander?

depends orbital can produce the circular lines but the good news for you is you probably cannot spray well enough for anyone to see them 😉

No primer and I would do it by hand if finish is critical.
If not power tool time for speed

What about using a vinyl wrap? Doesn't need to be matte black carbon effect if that's not your thing.....

As mentioned above Rustoleum rollered on and flatted will look fine, the VW Syncro guys use it a lot. I painted an old VW Bay in yellow Smoothrite, looked good for a year and then faded & looked crap, couldn't buff it up to a shine again. Did hold the non rusty metal together for a year though! 😀

cheers junky.

I have no idea what rustoleum is, but will read up.

I think, despite the glitzy vids and sites, I'm going to park the vinyl ideas.

There's a few videos on YouTube about rollering with Rustoleum, got some bookmarked on the laptop. Will post links in the morning.

400 is quite rough. I'd say 500, even 800 to finish off before painting. If you go through to bare alloy anywhere you should etch prime it to key it to the alloy. As said, use a simulated mohair roller for doing gloss paint & it will come out fine. Once it's hard, not just dry but [i]hard[/i] you [i]can[/i] flat it dull with 1200 grade paper & polish up. If your doing this I'd get some cutting compound. T-Cut is ok to finish off but you can get some that's slightly grittier so to speak. Even brush painting can be flatted back to a perfectly smooth finish if you put the work in. Get a "tack-rag" for the final wipe off before the paint goes on.

I've sprayed plenty of cars over the years. Cellulose "knacker-lacquer" is dead easy. Plenty of thin coats. Don't worry too much about a good finish straight from the gun. Building a spray booth is fine in theory but in reality you'll be choked out in minutes. Not too bad with cellulose but do that with 2-pack & you could kill yourself.
At this time of year you only get a few good dry hours at best each day if your spraying outside. Any moisture will balls it up. I sprayed an XR3i once, on a freezing cold day. The runs were that bad it looked like a bodykit.

Here you go:

And this one's also good:

cheers roger, taki.

I think rollering and finishing is looking the most sensible for the roof. Especially as I know you can get matching hammerite in a can to do the tricky bits that the roller wont.
Not sure about the doors though.

Stoner, I think all the work you have put into the landie deserves a bit better than the roller & hammerite.

Takisawa speaks sense about being able to retreive even the worst of painting but its time consuming & not even sure you will get the hammerite to cut back properly it also takes an age to get properly hard, keep the hammerite for towbars & the like.

Stick with proper 2k paint, 800 grit finish is the roughest you want to spray top coat onto, let it dry, really dry then you can 1000 the rough bits where your spraying didnt go quite to plan, 1200 the rest & you should be able to go straight to a polish, maybe a little T cutting before hand.

Your white idea sounds good, hides quite a lot of sins, however again after all that work & the stripped down condition you have it too now, why not just do the lot.

T cutting

🙂 This is a tractor, not a Shelsey Cobra!

Anyway, I'll see what the paintshop says. The Mrs seems to think I should pay for a pro spray. Im not sure she'll stick to that when she finds out how much more pocket money my "cheap and cheerful toy" is going to cost her...

She has seen the effort put in so far I guess.

Paint it yourself, with what you have done until now, the painting is the bit that makes it even more satisfying. Depends on you time constraints I guess.

Tinsy - watch the rustoleum video and look at the results. I used it on my VW Syncro, it's black too. Never going to be concourse but it looks spot on for the use to which it is put.

Roger, agreed it does look good.... Still might as well just spray it though same process for all the inbetween stages really.

edit, assuming you can aquire some budget spray kit.

As an aside have a look at the 50 dollar paint job website. Basically just a zillion coats of thinned hammerite and a thousand years of sanding!

If you arent fussed on finish, spray painting is a lot of faff.

Rustoleum or even 2pack rollered on would do. Just prep it, be careful not to go to bare metal. if you do go through i wouldnt bother with etch as it'll do more harm then good as it'll get under the surrounding paint.

cheers for all the pointers guys. Ive managed to find a local paintshop who understand what Im after (i.e. not a concourse finish, just a good solid, well lacquered paint job) and they will do it a a labour cost of around £40 ph + materials. Since Im going to do all the prep work, that should keep the cost down loads as they will do the whole lot in two batches in the painting booth. First lot is now just about ready to take down to them.

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I missed this earlier.

I've had good results using Tractol synthetic enamel. It's used for painting farm implements and comes in lots of agricultural manufacturers and Land Rover colours. It sprays easily without the need for air fed masks. I used it to spray my IIA. It held a good gloss for about five years then went a little flatter, but it was exposed daily to Orkney salt air.
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Ive parked the idea of painting large panels at home as I dont think I can do it in a dry, warm, dust & bug free environment. Im doing the little things and internal bits like floor panel and seat box myself, but that's ok in the workshop in small doses.

I reupholstered the second row seat bases last week and have traded fitting a new bog and basin at my folks for mum upholstering the seat backs (stitching needed).