[Closed] Sound insulation (for a garage/workshop door)

dont know about foam but a mate placed hardboard over the back of his doors and filled the gap with expander foam from B & Q. worked quite well.

quiet cull-de-sack

I think you'll find that it's spelt a 'cul-de-sac", as in the French for 'arse of the bag'. Although unsurprisingly, the French don't call them that, preferring instead to use the term 'voie sans issue'. Up until the sixties, they were often referred to as 'dead end streets', a term made famous in a song by the Kinks.

Tsk tsk .....'cull-de-sack' indeed. Such lack of finesse and education. I can't imagine what your 'a very middle class' neighbours would say if they knew.

I have no idea where to buy cheap foam from by the way.

I rather like cull-de-sack. It sort of nicely sums up the sort of suburbia where, er, cul-de-sacs are the norm, and a seething discontent simmers.

On the foam front, no idea, but I think guido's idea isn't a bad one (though no idea if the hinges will take the weight over time). You might also want to think about doing your best to seal the gaps around the door - some sort of draft excluder down the sides might do the trick.

I have no idea where to buy cheap foam from by the way.

I actually I hadn't given it much thought, horrified and unsettled as I was with your chavvy spelling. But upon reflection ........ I would go to Wicks, if you have one near you.

http://www.wickes.co.uk/Constructional-Insulation/Polystyrene-Insulation/icat/cipolyinsul

They don't seem too dear, and I would go for the thickest you can afford. Not sure what to fix it with - if gripfill doesn't work, held with battens screwed through the face of the doors ?

www.soundreduction.co.uk

cull-de-sack: castration ??

Little point trying to insualate the door unless its a good tight fit in the frame (ie no gaps anywhere).

bedroom pirate radio stylee - crap load of egg cartons stuck to the doors?

Might take a while to collect enough (and you'd be egg bound! 😈 )but may be cheapest...

Or what about the Salvos for some old heavy curtains - bang a rail over the doors, slide 'em across when you go to 11...

We were told that if we painted our new garage door it would invalidate the warranty because of the extra weight of the paint! I wasn't convinced, but might be worth thinking about.

The garage in the house we're buying has wooden doors with proper hinges, so should be nice and sound-proof.

headphones..

You'l just end up filling the whole thing with odd shaped frames and bikes anyway !!!

You still in reading with fw.

Im due to start in guildford with BOC in a few weeks.

Wel have to have a trip up to the peaks or an explore round guildford single track some time.

Simon (SUCC)

Rockwool. As someone says above though, gaps are crucial though

if we painted our new garage door it would invalidate the warranty because of the extra weight of the paint

LOL ! So the manufacturers have plenty of confidence in the strength and sturdiness of their doors then ! Does the user handbook tell you how to cope in the event of snow landing on the doors ? !

btw miketually, I fear that you might be disappointed with you wooden garage doors on 'proper hinges'. Specially when they rot, drop, and jam.

I like the "old heavy curtains" suggestion. No idea if it would work effectively, but it's intriguing. You would need 'bay window type' curtain rail so that the door could be opened without fouling the curtains. BTW, you shouldn't have huge gaps around a properly installed garage door. There should be rubber draft excluder/strips down the sides, and you shouldn't be able to see much daylight through the remaining gaps.

hmmmmmmmmmmmm, its an up'n'over door so nowhere to fit curtains, and guess it must be fairly finely ballance too, so maybe fixing stuff to it wanst such a good idea.

Simon, give me a shout when you get down here, i've not been riding too much as my knee's still a bit worn out and i'v only got the roadie and the BMX with me at the moment (a week in Lakes detroyed the DMR, needs new bearings everywhere!)

Don't use the expanding foam...its impossible to work with unless your filling a void, if you attach ply or similar to the inside it will either bow out the ply or the door as it expands, but most of all, the normal stuff isn't fire rated even when set, can't find the video now but it goes up in flames like something very flammable! Also it is open cell foam so any moisture is absorbed into it, if you have a metal door thats bad news.

Best solution is probably this stuff...but its expensive and easy to get a blockage which means the foam doesn't expand well...I just did the inside of my van with the stuff and in some places its quite thin. At the end I noticed one cylinder ran out before the other. One benefit is its pretty quick though, once you've prepped and masked off everything you don't want foam on, you'll be done in 15 minutes. The foam goes off in about 2 minutes.

http://www.spray-insulation.co.uk/

Edit: I say its easy to get a blockage, but its also easy to check the foam is going off properly, I was checking to make sure it was curing and was the right colour as per instructions, but wasn't paying attention to whether the foam expanding sufficiently...I was in a sweltering van with full PPE on and sweat running in my eyes! As long as you check regularly you should be fine, have a can of PU Foam Gun Cleaner (Screwfix) as when I'd finished that successfully flushed out the foam and blockage in the trigger and tubes, just wish I'd noticed earlier. Watch the eyes with the cleaner as it pressurises the gun, when you release from the can you get a shot of cleaner spraying from both the gun and the can 🙂

You could always ask one of the companies that do spray foam insulation to quote for doing the doors. No need for hardboard as it's a wide fan spray applicattion.
Alternatively use the sound deadening material that is used for high-end car audio installations. Self adhesive and only about 4mm thick.