Anybody had much experience with self leveling compound?
Kitchen floor is somewhat uneven. It has been sealed with some sort of paint in the past. Not sure what. Feels slightly rubbery and thick.
Reason for wanting to use it is to get rid of the rough surface to fit a vinyl floor. Floor itself is most likely really uneven from one side to another, but this isn't the aim of the compound. It's purely to remove the roughness.
Any ideas as to what I should put on the floor to prep it? I thought of a PVA coating.
Also the kitchen units are in place. Would I just put a barrier around the legs so that the levelling compound goes under the unit but not too far.
The other option we're considering is laminate with 6mm fibre board underlay, which might be the better option.
Go for the laminate and fibre board underlay, it will be the less messy/easier option.
Self leveing compound by its nature will get into everything.
How about ceramic tiles? laminate doesn't like wet areas, even if it is advertised as such.
Thought about ceramics, but I'm not confident enough to make a decent job of laying them.
Yes, Lots.
The floor sounds like it's been painted with floor paint, unless it's black in which case it might be Bitumen.
If painted you're in for a bit of a hard time to get it off as you can't stick to it really. Try some Nitromors on a small patch to see if it comes up, if it does, do so. If not, you could use a scarrifier to scratch up the surface but this will be very dusty and messy.
As for the leveling compound itself, I've had good sucess recently with the Wickes version, it's latex based which is what you want to stop cracking etc. You won't need to dam by the legs or whatever as it shouldn't be that runny and you won't be putting it on very thickly, 3mm max. Use a double hang trowel to push it about as there's no such thing as 'self' leveling, it doesn't do what it says on the tin unless you really water it down.
If a laminate floor is an option you'd be happy with it's a whole load less hard work.
You can't tile without getting the same floor paint (if that's what it is) up 1st anyway so you're in the same situation as Vinyl.
Cheers.
Looks like it's laminate then.
I take it the floor paint acts as a vapour barrier.
No it doesnt I'm afraid and if the floor is uneven you'll need to self-level before fitting laminate floor anyway. Even the 7mm fibreboard underlay still requires the floor to be relatively flat.
What about screwing sheets of MDF to the floor to level it out?
And is there anyway not to have to remove the floor paint?
It depends or really how unlevel the floor is, you might get away with ust the underlay.
DON"T screw MDF to the floor, it's in no way waterproof and would be a mistake. If anything plywood but I'd not bother doing that as without an adhesive under it there will be voids if the floor really is unlevel.
Got a photo? I'm only guessing that it might be paint without seeing it.
Photo doesn't really come out. Just looks like a brown floor.
I managed to spill some 3 in 1 oil on it a while back and that made the surface wipe up on a cloth, but didn't go through to the concrete.
I was thinking that a cheaper quality laminate with a bit more flex in it might be good for the job.
Cheap or expensive laminate, it won't make any difference. Laminate flooring isn't designed to flex, 1-2mm over 1m is about it's limit for uneven surfaces.
If it was mine and if I wanted it doing it as cheaply as possible, I would use the Wickes latex levelling compound mentioned above and lay vinyl onto that. It really is very easy to use.
my m8 uses latex levelling compound quite a lot when fitting carpets/vinyl. Basically one bag of powder and one container of latex milk, mix up and spread around with a float. next day rub down any air bubbles and lay your floor.
Just as Blazing saddles has already said.
Levelling compound needs big trowels and @ least two sets of hands one mixing one laying depending on the size,sets very quickly..Buy an extra bag of compound just incase you are out on your calcs!
Well if it comes up with 3 in 1 I doubt it's an oil based paint, just try having a good scrub at it with a wire brush to see if it comes off, you don't need bare screed just make sure there's a key for the levelling compound.
Thanks for all that.
The house is in chaos just now and the kitchen floor is a key area in being able to make progress elsewhere.
Well if it comes up with 3 in 1 I doubt it's an oil based paint, just try having a good scrub at it with a wire brush to see if it comes off, you don't need bare screed just make sure there's a key for the levelling compound.
When the 3 in 1 was spilt on it, I didn't notice for a bit, then realised that the floor was wet. I gave it a good clean, took several goes and it never got through to the concrete below.
It was suggested to use PVA to get a key on the floor. I have an orbital sander handy so could use that to key the floor as well.
I always use a neoprene primer before screeding, ball p131 I think it is. Sticks to anything, even bitumin and asphalt.
I usually use weber floor flex screed, get it from CTD for about 12 quid a bag. It can be used up to 50mm thick in 1 pour and can be walked on in about 2 hours. Very easy to work with and seems to go further than other brands.
Expanding foam is great for making barriers at doorways and under cabinets
DO NOT USE PVA