[Closed] masonry drill bits that don't melt

Are you using an SDS drill? Never had a problem even into solid concrete. Normal masonry bits in a regular hammer drill sometimes struggle with floor screed!

Turn the speed down

I use cheap bits in my SDS and never had an issue. Also use the basic ones from Toolstation in my battery drill with hammer effect and they seem fine too. Are you working the bit, you want to push on it a bit so it is cutting?

Yes, its an SDS albeit a cheapo one. I've used it to go into lintels in the past with not too much effort.
And yes im working the bit, it seems at about 30-40mm depth into these blocks im occasionaly hitting something hard - a pebble perhaps. The drill then stops making progress and I have to really press hard, at which point I can feel the bit give up after maybe 10secs.

I use cheap bits in my SDS and never had an issue.

maybe I need to invest in a mofo big SDS drill..

Bosch multiconstruction drill bits - if you duff them then theres something weird going on inside your wall.

They'll drill metal as well as masonry so if the obstruction you are hitting is metal just turn off hammer and it should make its way through

Oddly I bought a multipack of Titan drill bits from screwfix and they were all useless. even when using an adapter into a 5kg SDS drill.

But the bits that came with my titan SDS drill are much better.

There's a chance your drill has done its best work. The actual impact force can reduce significantly even though the machine is still making the all the right noises.

I've got a 2kg Bosch SDS, the blue one at screwfix for around £100. It's done a few years of full on, hard use and it's definitely getting close to replacement time.

The Bosch multi-use bits, as above, and Heller bits from Toolstation are good.

So what's the minimum rating I should go for on an SDS drill for general house projects. Bearing in mind if I re-invest I want it to go through anything I come across

I'd recommend that Bosch, it's not about overall power but build quality IMO.

When new it was fantastic. Through super hard floor screed, HD blocks, lintels whatever, it would still do the same now just take a fair bit longer. When I say a few years, I mean 6+ years of industrial use, including getting used and abused by my BIL who, for some unknown reason, treats all tools as if each and every one has personally insulted him.

Only had light use so far, but my 5kg Titan one is doing what I ask of it, and has a torque limiter so can be used to drill cores without risking your wrists.

Any of the big names 2kg drills will perform about the same, as Tinas says, if you want to use core drills you'll need to go bigger plus you have more breaking power available.

I also need to 'chisel' out a trench of floor screed in order for my plumber to lay central heating pipework under floor level.

Would a good SDS with chisel action be the tool for the job?

I notice the 5kg Titan is at Screwfix for 50 notes, tempted to grab one after work

although my Makita handheld has been a great reliable pal for years now

Thats the one ive got, they do a set with chisels, masonry bits, cores etc for about £80.

Can't say ive used it much but its doing a lot of DIY jobs at the moment. Bought it to re site the extractor vent on the cooker and the tumble dryer outlet so fingers crossed it chisels!

Depending on the construction of the concrete blocks you are drilling into it is worth checking to see if you are hitting re-bar in the concrete block itself. Try going into the hole you've started at a different angle.

if hitting a rebar (reinforced steel?) , can/should I simply turn off hammer action and use rotary function to get through it?

Ask yourself if you're happy cutting the renforcements. Or will the place fall down.

I have a Titan with all the tools - brilliant bit of kit. But drilling a 7mm hole through rebar is going to be a bugger.

A SDS with roto-stop is a handy feature especially for chasing out for cables. Very easy in breeze block, bit more difficult in concrete but will still do the job.

If it's blockwork you are fixing to there should not be any metal apart from ties.

If they are pre-cast sections then there will be rebar in it, in which case you need the multi-material bits.

For the floor chase it would be best with a grinder and diamond blade if the dust is not a problem.
Cut both edges to depth required, and cut again if needed depending on width of channel, then break out with the drill.

it seems at about 30-40mm depth into these blocks im occasionaly hitting something hard - a pebble perhaps.

Typically these days the aggregate in concrete will be a crushed rock, so it tends to be a kind of stone thats amenable to crushing and as a result drills reasonably well. Back in the day the aggregate would often be small peebles which means the stone can be a miss-mash of all types of stone, some of which might be very hard (flint, granite etc)

Slow down and consider a lubricant.

Works well with drills too.

Are you using SDS bits of normal masonry in the adapter chuck?

The adapter should not be used with hammer action. Never had a problem using even cheap SDS bits. Even my little 14v cordless does abgood job in concrete with a decent cordless specific masonry bit.

Did you say concrete lintel or block work. Sounds like you're hitting the rebar, move the hole by 10mm? There's 3 pieces of rebar in a lintel

Concrete is hard and masonry/cinderblock is quite soft. If you are chewing up drill bits are you using the correct ones?

For the floor I cut the outline with a diamond cutting disc in a small angle grinder and then used a bolster in the cuts to snap out the bit of screed and then flattened off the bottom with a flat chisel on the SDS drill. Made nice need slots for the pipes but the disc cutting make A LOT of dust.