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We have a few raised beds on a piece of lawned area and want to lay gravel patches between them. I was going to lay down a thick weed membrane directly on top of the grass and then lay pea gravel on top. Is there any particular reason I should remove 2-4” of turf before doing this? Cheers
What are you using to contain the gravel?
I'd remove the turf and use timber edging.
They recently did this at work, they dug out the turf and put edging boards in, a membrane and then the gravel.
It'll end up spreading. Cut turf off, membrane, nida gravel or similar retention menthod and edging.
I’d be using gravel board pegged into the ground on 2 sides and on the other 2 it is a concrete path and kerb.
Pea gravel is really shite to walk on, like walking in deep sand.
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Nobeerinthefridge
Free MemberPea gravel is really shite to walk on, like walking in deep sand
Cheers nobeer I’ll just use standard size.
The lengths some folk would go to to justify buying a gravel bike....
Crushed slate gives a good surface and doesn't let as much in the way if weeds through.
If you're gravelling the full area between raised beds, lay the membrane up the edges and can fit in 15cm of gravel, the grass can stay. If you're having part gravel part grass, I'd dig out 15cm, board and membrane. Less than 15cm of gravel you'll be pulling weeds out of it after a year.
Wouldn't it be raised if you don't dig down a bit?
We have gravel and discovered that cats don't shit on the 20mm Tarmac ballast stuff, but treat anything rounder and smaller as a litter tray.
We are planning gravel paths. I was planning membrane, compacted mot1 then gravel. Am I going overboard with the compacted mot1?
Yes, for footpath use, no need for compacting.
Get the plastic retainer grids, means you're not wading through the stuff every time you walk on it.
Get something 20mm and angular, it'll settle down really quickly and won't move.
Get something 20mm and angular, it’ll settle down really quickly and won’t move.
This
Crushed or angular material aggregates will be far more stable and easier to walk on. I'd go <20mm myself to avoid the drainfill look but whatever. If you can, a quick walk round an open NT garden will give you an idea. Local to me is a small pick up quarry selling loose aggregate, it's way way cheaper than the bagged B&Q option.
Robert of Flowerdew said don't bother with a membrane, it'll work for a bit then seeds will establish above it anyway. Invest in a hoe or gas lance weeder. Check with the wife about a hoe first.
Done exactly this a few weeks ago.
£40 to hire the self propelled turf cutter from local hire shop. Weighs 95kg so ideally get it dropped off by them.
The rear wheel drive didn't like soft/wet ground so wait till the ground dries out or is freezing.
Cutting depth was adjustable. The turf rolls weigh a tonne when wet.
Screwfix HEAVY DUTY weed matting, avoid cutting it if you can 1 and 2 metre widths, various lengths. 20mm gravel. Eat plenty of spinach for gravel digging.
Get the delivery driver to pile the tonne bags on top of each other for easier barrowing (CAREFULLY cut the bag sides).
Robert of Flowerdew said don’t bother with a membrane
The point about a membrane under gravel is to keep the soil from mixing with the gravel. If you don't have a membrane, your gravel becomes a mixture of soil and gravel, and weeds grow in it. 15cm of gravel with a membrane and you don't get weeds - I assume the seeds wash to the bottom and it's too dark for them.
Thanks for the information. Going to go with stripping 4" off the top, adding a 4"layer of crushed stone as sub-base & compact, membrane and then add gravel on top. Will edge where required with gravel board.
6" of gravel or 4" crushed stone for a wee path between beds. I hate to try and use a wheelbarrow on deep gravel maybe need a winch to pull out