[Closed] Heating/electrical types, help please

oh and also the system was tested to 2bar for 24hrs so the air shouldn't be from a leak

tested hot or cold ?

ive been fault finding on my newly installed system recently and found it held 2 bar for over a week (while my controller was in transit)

once i fitted the controller and it all got hot i had a connection that leaked - where it went from copper pipe to plastic.

Not saying its the case but worth bearing in mind.

fitted a new connection and its been fine since

tested empty with a proper gauge and a track pump, bloody hell that was hard work

Mines systems a vented system so I don't think I can test is full and hot

I'm pretty sure it is the boiler, it did it last year when we moved in before I'd touched anything

Bump for lunch, apologies for nonsense sentence above

Have you got corrossion inhibitor in the system?

If you have and your sure it's not getting in from a leak you'll just have to chase the air around the system and bleed it out of the radiators.

Is it really that much of an issue?

I can't see a timed overrun pump fixing this. You could do it manually by putting a switch on the pump to see if it helped rather than an overrun. An overrun on heating is to get rid of heat from the boiler (modern boilers really)

yep inhibitor in, I'm pretty sure it's not a leak, I'm pretty sure the air is coming from the boiler.

boiler off after a cycle, rads all bled then boiler comes on and glug glug burble burble and air moves round into the first few rads again, sounds very much like it's source is the boiler. then for the rest of the cycle nice and quiet......and repeat.

I've bled every rad in the system dozens of times in the last 4-5 days, chasing and checking things.

Is it really that much of an issue?

Nope bleeding the radiators isn't the end of the world, but a daily chore I'd really rather not. Yep I know I can get auto bleeders but the gurgling in our bedroom rad (first on upstairs circuit) every morning is going to really get annoying

I've had a good google and my theory seems to hold water, for the sake of £25 to get an overrun working I thought it was worth a punt.

An overrun on heating is to get rid of heat from the boiler

Why wouldn't that apply to an older boiler too?
I'd put money on my old cast iron one holding way more heat than a new one, yep it heats the kitchen up so no bother but it could equally go to the rads.

come on STW I was expecting a group of experts imparting years of experience and maybe a few opinions from DIYers like myself too, with people robustly defending their opinions.

Was it just plumbers and sparkys that have been banned 😉 🙁

I'll just chat away to myself in here 😥

I think that unit should work but you would need to wire a permanent live to it too. Your boiler will have a switched 230V supply for the pump.

Wire live and neutral from the boiler to the timer and the switched live from the boiler pump supply to the timer switch input.

Standard boiler run-on time is of the order of 10 minutes.

cheers Jim, yeah I knew I'd need a live feed, I can put one of those in it's not far. I completely rewired the control system only a couple of weeks ago so I know exactly where it all is.

its the middle of the day at a very busy time of the year for heating engs..

but if you are thinking of a timed pump over run , the energy effciency regs change soon and you ll only be able to fit a very expensive cat A pump with very very limited over run from that day so that the world lasts longer..

There usually always somebody on here with an opinion at any time of the day 😉

Just seem quieter than usual, as you say probably bad timing for heating eng's

I've had an email from a forum regular(on a ban) which was helpful too, so I've ordered one and will give it a go. If it doesn't solve the problem then I can't see an overrun being a bad thing and I can wind the time right down with it if needs be

Cheers

Old Ci boilers don't mind so much being left with a big lump of hot water in them unlike modern boilers. Can't see it doing anything for your air.
What do you think the overrun is going to achieve?

edit - didn't notice the localised boiling bit in your first post so yes possibly. Turn the stat on the boiler down to low and see if it still does it?

If your constantly doing it (keep bleeding for a while yet) then maybe your boiler is leaking?
Maybe when it's hot a joint expands a little bit and lets air in but water evaporates.

BUT don't start taking your boiler to bits looking for a leak however competent you think you are.
Plus if it's a conventional flue boiler (vertical with no fan) and not a balanced flue or fanned flue I'd get it replaced ASAP unless it's in an outhouse as they are too easy to kill yourself with if the flue get's blocked/damaged etc.

I have tried turning the boiler temp down it helped a bit I think bit its still happening, difficult to gauge though, yep it's a conventional boiler ,vertical flu, no fan

the rooms vented obviously, the vent and flu have been checked and alarms are in place, we will replace it when we can afford it, which isn't going to be this year for sure. Its had annual checks from one of the neighbours for years, long before we lived there, he runs a Gas and Boiler company, Gas Safe obviously.

I have had leak detector stuff over all of the connection to the boiler and rads too

is it pumped for the hot water too? We had gravity fed DHW, with a similar boiler - it'd have a right old gurgle when it came on in the morning

nevermind, read about the air in the system too. sorry.

I'm not reading all of that, but a pump over-run isn't your problem. System design or configuration is the most likely problem, followed by the formation of Hydrogen or such like in the system due to corrosion.

ok if it's 100% not the problem, and hydrogen is, then is there anything else I can do to stop/reduce it? Without completely redesigning the system/replacing the boiler, which will happen just not at the moment

I've got a bottle of sentinel inhibitor in there