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My Mother has fitted at the moment a Worcester bosch 240 combi boiler in the garage with a frost thermostat next to it. In the bungalow she has an analogue wall timer and each radiator has its own thermostat. Im not convinced these rad thermostats are working properly because the rads are always really hot when on and even if I turn them down the temp doesnt seem to change unless they are off completly. The rooms are either too hot or too cold and never constan temp. Would fitting a wireless timer with thermostat give her more control over the room temp and is it just a case of removing the old analogue time and fitting the wireless control box in its place with the control display/thermostat somwhere in the room such as on a table? She is a little concerned about her heating bills and I'm sure it is because there is no proper regulation of the room temp and the boiler is just pumping out all the time when on. What do you think is the best solution?
First of all, does it have a pipe stat wired through the frost? If not, the frost stat wil bring the heating on, however, the boiler won't heat the garage enough to shut off again, so you need to wire a pipe stat to shut off once the pipework gets to a decent temp.
Trv's must be working in a fashion, as you can shut them off. Try keeping all doors shut so rooms get upto temperature easy. Wireless kit can be wired in with the old timeswitch, if so desired
Not sure about the pipe stat. The only stat I see in the garage is wired into the boiler as far as I am aware this works fine. She always has the windows and doors shut so heating the place is not a problem but it just gets too hot.
Yeah, because the garage gets cold, and the boiler runs flat out, as the frost stat is protecting the boiler from freezing. It will run almost constantly until the weather picks up again in spring. A pipe stat shuts it off again, letting the clock and room stat control the heating.
Is every rad on a TRV? If so it won't work (apparently) you need one with standard valves.
Thermostatic radiator valves turn the rads on and off at the set temp - they are either on or off not a range of temps, So the rads will either be hot or cold - only warm when cooling or heating as the valve opens and closes
What paulosoxo says, need to have a low limit pipe thermostat fitted onto the return close to the boiler otherwise the frost stat will cause the boiler to run in any cold weather. And as it is fitted in an unheated room (garage) there is nothing to swith it off, whereas a pipestat will ensure that it does not run unless the water gets cold enough. Usually set air stats a 5 deg. C, and the pipe stat at 10deg C.
Then you can think of a wireless stat which could be added to the existing programmer, or you could opt for a wireless prog stat to do both jobs. You need to find a competent engineer to do the work for you.
Me and Bear, agreeing again 🙂
The garage doesn't really get that cold it probabaly remains around 10 deg C. Each rad has its own TRV and on the TRV's there are numbers from say 1-6 but regardless of what posistion they are in the rads always feel hot and dont switch off . I think i need to have a better look at the thermostat in the garage to see what its wired to.
What sort of price should I be looking at for fitting wireless thermostat?
Paul, think you are a BG engineer if I remember?
If so proof once again that there are a lot of good engineers at BG, unfortunately tainted by the few. Oh and the reputation for high prices!
Boilers frost protection usually runs the pump if water temp gets low, about 7-8 deg c, then fires boiler if the air temp gets to about 3-4 deg c. Will switch off once above temps are reached, & even if it is close to freezing in the garage the inside of the boiler will get above 3 deg c in a minute or so; so heating wont just stay on.
Sounds like you need new TRV's, ideally one needs to be conventional valve but most boilers incorporate a run-through loop, & safety blow-off anyway.
Invest in some good quality TRV's & a new stat, maybe even a timed thermostat.
I'm no plumber but fitted my own CH a few years ago so swatted up a bit. 🙂
listen to paul, he knows what he's on with.
Boilers frost protection usually runs the pump if water temp gets low, about 7-8 deg c, then fires boiler if the air temp gets to about 3-4 deg c. Will switch off once above temps are reached, & even if it is close to freezing in the garage the inside of the boiler will get above 3 deg c in a minute or so; so heating wont just stay on.
No they don't, some use the thermisters to keep above a set temp, the 240 doesn't have any built in frost protection. start again from post 2
18/bear, thanks 🙂
