MegaSack DRAW - This year's winner is user - rgwb
We will be in touch
I'd like to insulate my up and over garage door, what's the best stuff to use?
Garage door gets used so can't be anything too heavy.
I had a look at the foil backed bubble wrap stuff in B&Q and it looked very thin.
Any recommendation? Cheers
EPS board?
I think something flexible would probably be easier, using board would make it tricky to do I think.
I covered my ceiling and door in the bubble foil. It works, but I have fitted a draught excluder along the threshold and plugged all the gaps I can see.
You will only notice the benefits once you have a heat source in place though. It'll still be colder than a witches tit unless you get a heater in there, especially if it's like mine, concrete.
Get some isolation from the floor while your at it. Cheap and cheerful eva foam will do.
Bubble wrap foil is cheaper in screwfix.
I fitted this around the sides and top;
[url= http://www.garagedoor-spares.com/item/garage-door-rubber-side-seals-2-x-36inch ]http://www.garagedoor-spares.com/item/garage-door-rubber-side-seals-2-x-36inch[/url]
to seal it and one of these
[url= http://www.garagedoor-spares.com/item/garage-door-rubber-floor-seal-163-50m-and-adhesive ]http://www.garagedoor-spares.com/item/garage-door-rubber-floor-seal-163-50m-and-adhesive[/url]
to seal the bottom.
Actually having a reasonably air tight door made a difference.
I'd probably cut up and stick 25mm Celotex on the actual panels if I insulated it.
I have a sealing strip along the bottom, 14mm thick rubber tiles on the floor and a fan heater. The rubber side seals are a good tip.
I've insulated my garage doors with Jablite. It's maybe inch thick grey polystyrene sheet that's fairly easy to cut. It slots nicely into all the bracing on the door - my plan at some point is to screw thin hardboard or very thin ply over the top of it to fully seal it in - then I can paint it white.
My dad used silicon sealant to stick kingspan onto his garage door. Seems to work and low budget!
I'm not should boarding it would work as there's not a lot of space between the arms for the lock and the door. So don't think I could slide board behind.
Mine is currently lined with expanded polystyrene sheets cut from packing material. It's just thin enough to go under the locking arms and between the bracing. I've an intention to cover it with something like that silver foil bubble stuff too.
Get some carpet with underlay on the floor to stop any heat getting out that way.
I fitted a brush strip to the bottom of my door which helps loads with dust and leaves.
I need to get some insulation for the door and roof.
I need to get some insulation for the door and roof.
Me too, any recommendations 🙂
Be careful not to put too much additional weight on the door, it can upset the spring that helps lift the door.
Ooh I've just thought of something to do with the wool insulation from our Hello Fresh boxes, two first world problems killed with one fleece.
You can get self adhesive foam (about 6mm) for campervans. However, I'm not sure I'd bother trying to insulate an up and over door...if you want a warmer door get a roller door, I have a compact version which is thinner but still has insulation in the slats, there is no noticeable draught around the door as it slides down brush lined channels and has a rubber seal at the bottom.
I expect a sectional door would be even better insulated, but it takes up ceiling room.
I'm about to plasterboard my garage walls (soundbloc) so watching this thread with interest as some insulation on the door will finish it off nicely 🙂
I'm not sure I'd bother trying to insulate an up and over door...if you want a warmer door get a roller door
I think insulation the door will make a fair bit of difference. If I touch the door its very cold so adding insulation will help. I won't be replacing the door.
How about a heavy curtain a couple of inches inside the door? Shouldn't interfere with it at all, no weight issues and will keep the drafts out - quick and easy too.
I used the bubble wrap in a similar wsy to merak, its ok definetly needs the gaps filling. I may change the doors for wooden ones which could take more weight.
Best changes I made were plasterboarding the ceiling and adding a butane heater.
If the heaters on its nice and warm, I get about 200 hours from a £30 refill.


