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In the olden days, oil was oil. As long as you had the right numbers on the bottle, ie 5w/30 or something like that.
So if I use my wifes Vauxhall 5w/30 oil in my VW which also uses 5w/30 oil, will it explode and kill me?
If you drink it? Yes.
Saw it in a James Bond film
The 5W/30 bit is what matters but you don't really want to be mixing types either (ie. semi-synthetic with synthetic) iirc.
just check the spec label on the back. VW have their own standards for the additive packs. Should be something like VW 502.00
They've taken to using unfeasibly thin oil - the new TSI engines use a 0w20. Its basically like water.
The 5W/30 bit is what matters but you don't really want to be mixing types either (ie. semi-synthetic with synthetic) iirc.
So, if you don't know what was used previously then you cant just top it up?
I think mixing Types is the main issue, synthetic/non synthetic.. check that.. or call Vauxhall..
[i]if you don't know what was used previously then you cant just top it up?[/i]
you have to assume the manufacturers recommended type has been used.
go onto the euro car parts website. type in the reg search for oil and see what oil weight and type is recommended and get that. Wouldn't put anything else in.
The 5W/30 bit is what matters but you don't really want to be mixing types either (ie. semi-synthetic with synthetic) iirc.
Can't see why not, you'd not get the benefits of the fully synthetic oil's stability but if your engine or service intervals don't need it then it's just wasting money anyway. There was some test that showed you only needed a small amount of magnatec in your engine to get most of the benefit even when diluted with cheap oil after a change as it stuck to the metal bits for example.
I've been happily chicking in whatever is on offer and meets the Ford spec for years; cheap Millers turbo diesel oil, Magnatec, Mobil 3000. The first of those is odd as it's a NA petrol, but the main dealer parts counter said it's what they used in everything (and it did meet the spec).
As for specifically VW Vs Vauxhall oil, who knows, probably not, but there's always some slim chance that there's some weird rubber/plastic that will react badly, or it does/doesn't do something and causes it to fail on emissions. I'd be surprised if anything went wrong but I'd not tell you to do it, especially as you'll then have to go out and buy more oil for her car anyway when you service that, so you don't save anything in the long run.
The handbook will tell you what spec oil is required. Buy whatever meets that spec, check the label on the back of the bottle.
Mixing synthetic/non synthetic isn't really an issue, but mixing additive packs can potentially cause problems (though I would be kind of surprised).
Also, the synthetic stuff will last a lot longer. Some engines will do some sort of detection of oil quality, if you have this it'll tell you to service it earlier if you put non-synthetic in as it breaks down quicker at high temperatures. If you don't, it'll break down and not lubricate as well - potentially prior to your next service.
The manufacturer specs are a massive PITA to be honest, but they do allow them to make (slightly) better engines.
Transit pick up 30,000 before the oil gets changed although my one got its major at 26000 as it told me it wanted a change of oil as it was born in Nov two years ago
Can't believe major service oil, air ,pollen ,filter all changed then get a call i need a fuel filter extra 60 quid
Took the ford garage two hours not much change out of £300
The 5W/30 bit is what matters
Actually, no.
Many manufacturers have their own standards, for example VW have ones like 505.00 or 507.00 and they mean different things. Use the wrong one in a PD equipped VW diesel and you'll knacker it eventually. Those are the ones that say 'ideal for VW/Ford/BMW' etc on the front. Read the manual for your car, it'll tell you what you need, and it'll be on the label on the back of the bottle.
BUT
There are also generic industry standards, like ACEA or API. These are usually with a number after the initials, and they sort of represent cumulative improvements. Your car will say 'requires minimum API-SL' or something and you will find API-SM in the shop and that's ok because M comes after L. These labels are also on the bottle. Your car might specify oil conforming to an ACEA standard, and these are the ones that don't refer to a manufacturer on the front of the bottle.
My Passat needs 507.00 cos it's a PD engine, and I also buy 'long life' cos I'm on long life service intervals. The Prius only needs API-SM.
Many oils meet more than one spec.
go onto the euro car parts website. type in the reg search for oil and see what oil weight and type is recommended and get that.
thats my default too, however when i put the reg in it still gives me loads of choice, 5w/30, 5w/40, synthetic and non-synthetic, so still had to double check my choice with car-savvy mates.
Changed once a year with the correct weight 5w/30 10w/40 etc is close enough for me.
Eurocar parts checker just gives you the weight, I suspect they think thre rest is BS too.
It's really not BS. Just because it all looks brown doesn't mean it's the same.
http://www.mobil.co.uk/uk-english-lcw/carengineoils_products_mobil-super-3000-xe-5w30.aspx
"...low ash engine oil designed to help prolong the life and maintain the efficiency of the Exhaust Car Emission Reduction Systems in both diesel and gasoline powered automobiles."
I got my last lot of oil at Halfords. I put in the reg on the website, up came about 4 choices, I chose one that I'd heard of and ordered it for pick-up at the local store in a few minutes.
Not only did I get 10% off with my British Cycling card, I also got 5 litres for the price of 1 as they must have picked the wrong one off the shelf.
The handbook will tell you what spec oil is required. Buy whatever meets that spec, check the label on the back of the bottle.
C'mon, you of all people should know never to trust a paper copy!
Manufacturers change specs, check with the manufacturer or a reliable up to date table.
They change the required oil for an old car?
C'mon, you of all people should know never to trust a paper copy!Manufacturers change specs, check with the manufacturer or a reliable up to date table.
Yes, but, you'll want the one that matches your car, not a newer one.
For 5w30 engine oil I always use VW spec 507.00. It's a higher standard than 505.00.
It costs about £10 more for a large can than the cheapest 5w30 but as my Volvo XC90 also uses 5w30 (lower grade) it means I can use one oil across both my cars. Even though these are long life oils, I still change the oil at least once a year even if mileage does not require it. With a Pela syphon pump and a £7 filter I can change the oil on my car for less than £35 in about 20 minutes (most of which is me drinking coffee while the pump sucks the oil out of the sump).
As mentioned above, if you've got a modern techy engine, by all means get a Halfords brand oil or similar, but make sure its the right type (low ash etc) if you have a DPF, there are subtle differences.
However I often find the branded oils like Castrol have multisaves that make the price comparable to Halfords own version.
The VW oil will be the ACEA [b]C3[/b] version.
Other manufacturers require C1, C2, or C4. I think there's even a C5 version out now.
Check the label on the back of your wife's oil and if it says C3 then it's ok to use.
Personally, I'd top up with any 5w30 oil then renew with the correct version come service time, it's never harmed any of my engines in the past.
Yes, but, you'll want the one that matches your car, not a newer one
A newer model? Obviously not.
But manufacturers do retroactively change specs, Honda did it across the board with the 7th gen civic when they face-lifted it.
Stick some 20/50 in.
most of which is me drinking coffee while the pump sucks the oil out of the sump).
What you talking bout Willis?
No drain plug? (as a long gone ex mechanic I'm intrigued)
esselgruntfuttock - Member
Stick some 20/50 in.most of which is me drinking coffee while the pump sucks the oil out of the sump).
What you talking bout Willis?No drain plug? (as a long gone ex mechanic I'm intrigued)
sump pump out through a tube down the dipstick. leaves behind the shite in the sump
Only if the cars not designed to use one, latest sump designs have a catch pot so the pump pipe pulls out the shite with the oil. The dipstick pipe is also aimed in the right direction.
All becomes a little more complex when everyone finally gives up on dipsticks.......
But manufacturers do retroactively change specs, Honda did it across the board with the 7th gen civic when they face-lifted it.
So where to check? How can I check my car?
the camshafts on VW's are very sensitive to the correct oil so you need those spec VW numbers listed on the oil.
Is saving £10 really worth borking your engine?
Not always!If you drink it? Yes.Saw it in a James Bond film
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It was VW PD engines that were fussy about oil, as they need certain additives for the roller cams.
For general topup, it used to be anything similar specced (plus anything is better than nothing!), however now I'd get some of the correct oil. Our main supplier at work has over 15 5W30 oils to meet all the manufacturers different specs.
As for suitable grades for older vehicles changing, it happens quite often. Older specs get superseded by newer specs. As long as you buy something that meets or exceeds the original spec, then you're good.
so theres loads of info on this but basically.
in a VW (ive got a golf 1.4tsi) i would be looking for the 504 spec oil. With the recent VW engines (of which mine is one) there have been lots of issues / failures so i wouldnt take the risk imo. Keep the 5w30 and get decent stuff. Change it every year. If its on longlife servicing i wouldnt bother.
a lot of the increases in specs have been for emissions issues. in most other cars i would just go for a suitable viscosity. However on a modern motor i would be looking to use a modern oil as it will more than likely burn cleaner and thus not effect things like the cat / dpf.
unless your running an rx8 in which its a whole other issue.
🙂
So where to check? How can I check my car?
Read back a post. Ask the manufacturer.
It's also not only grade that can change but weight. Basically if you see another car with the same engine using a different spec adopt a questioning attitude.
Dont get me wrong, its probably going to be okay if you go by original spec but there could be good reasons for the change that only long term use can show (premature wear etc)
If it's an older engine then probably not quite so sensitive. If newer engine it probably is more sensitive. Got a dpf? Needs low ash oil. Got a turbo? Why risk a different oil? For they matter if it's got a turbo, change the oil regularly
sump pump out through a tube down the dipstick. leaves behind the shite in the sump
So....the crap stays IN the sump? Great idea, & It's not even April 1st!
pella pumps are quite good. Youll probably get more oil out of the sump with one on a modern car. sucks up all the crap