Door hanging tips

Leave them on the frame if you have help to hold the door when putting back on.
New ish hinges won't be the pin type that can be knocked out and then the pins slid back in after.
Cardboard on the floor and use a wedge to get it back to the correct hight then screw it back on

I prefer to leave the hinges on the door. Mainly because I line up a top hinge hole to put the first screw in when rehanging. Then swing it out to put another screw in the bottom. Nip them up a bit to let the door ride up onto the countersink and fit the other screws.
I have a proper door lifter tool but I usually just waggle the door about on the opposite corner to get the first hole aligned.

I leave them on the door as well but I won't panic if 3 shims fall out on the floor from the frame. I've seen people split frames when resting the door on the edge of the chop out.
Tbh if it's a 1 hour fire door I used to get someone else to do it 🙂

Wooden wedges are your friends here, as well a friend to hold the door (not essential if you have some nice wedges).
Easy to cut a few from a scrap of wood. About 3 to 4 cm high and 15 cm long is about right for me.

What's settled? Is it just a loose hinge or has something moved, e.g the door isn't square in the frame
Is it painted? Be careful that a chunk of wood doesn't split off as the hinge is freed from its recess
Chisel pivotting on a screwdriver shaft for liftage

I leave the hinges on the door too as BigJohn does. Not sure it makes much odds which you leave them on.

I have a couple of little bags you inflate under the door to take the weight but a wooden wedge does the same.

Very hard to take a very small amount off the bottom with a handsaw, so probably a plane is best, planing inwards towards the centre from each side to avoid breakout.
Otherwise, router against a straight edge or tracksaw.

I find one of these really useful:

https://www.toolstation.com/draper-door-board-lifter/p88729

A version of that door lifter you can do in a fix is take a nice wide chisel and place it under the door. Put a narrow piece of wood or something under the chisel, midway and at a right angle.

Use your foot to press down on the lever in a controlled way and lever the door into position while you get a screw or two in.
Not ideal but it works.

Can you all please stop using chisels as prybars.
What's next combination squares as paint tin lid openers??
ANIMALS

Inflatable hedgehogs are awesome for this.

Only a few pounds (£) and with each pump you can adjust the height and keep it there. Brilliant!

Can you all please stop using chisels as prybars.

I only use my janky ones that are used for chopping out around nails and that.
They aren't Lesley Nelsons.
That's only when I've forgotten my inflatables.

Can you all please stop using chisels as prybars

Mine is one of a couple of decoys that I keep for my wife to hack tiles off walls, scrape paint, open paint tins, etc. Q-chisels if you like, the real ones are hidden 🙂

Thanks for reminding me or the extended tool range available for opening tins. I wonder in pliers or Stanley knife will sub for a wooden wedge as they are sort of tapered 😉

Doors? Hanging ain't good enough for 'em.
Signed
Chickenman MD, Upskirting Joinery, Edinburgh

I will accept decoys tools as fair use I've got a tool box just for that purpose.
The only manky I have I went through twin and earth cable after someone hid a light socket cable behind a panel.

Boxwood Marples for home posh stuff
70,s red handle footprints for home
Marples jelly for site.

Crappy blue Stanley if any wants to borrow them.

I have issues with tools

Jeez, you guys have given me the fear properly now. Splitting door frames, taking chunks of wood out, using a router. Does the question make it sound like I'm a man with a router?

I've bought a roll off sandpaper cloth and I'll be running that under it for 10 minutes to remove the mil or so rather than risk my house collapsing.

Stick the sandpaper to the floor, keep shouting for people to come into the room and sit back and relax as the door makes itself fit. 👌

I wish you luck.

Usually when you hang a door, it needs a first screw in and many use the top or second down.

Then place one in the bottom hinge, usually the bottom most, closest to the frame, once you've balanced the door. The order you put the screws back in, trying to mimic how the original joiner placed them can sometimes be critical, because its sometimes a requirement to take it off again, use a different hole to rehang it on its initial fitting. Reasons can be it needed to go up a bit or in/out a bit.

I think as it’s settled a bit the outer edge is just fouling on a floor tile

IMO most likely is that the top hinge has to a degree worn, especially if it not of particularly high quality.

If you are not exaggerating and it really is only about a millimetre short of clearing the floor tiles it is highly likely that you can resolve the problem without removing the door.

Just pack out the bottom hinge with a piece of cardboard from something like a cornflake packet. This will more than likely lift the lock edge sufficiently to clear the tiles, assuming of course that you have at least an eighth gap on the lock side.

Try to avoid putting a piece of cardboard the whole width of the hinge leaf, you want to throw the hinge knuckle over so a narrow folded piece of cardboard tucked behind the knuckle edge of the hinge should be enough.

TBH if you could post a good quality photo of the door in the closed position I could probably see exactly what needs to be done.

Edit: The fact that the door is hung on three hinges makes it particularly easy to pack out the bottom hinge. It will just take a couple of minutes so I would definitely do that before the far more time consuming, and probably unnecessary job, of removing the whole door.

What sort of door is it? Panelled or ledge and braced? It may have been professionally hung but was it professionally made? Interior or exterior? Painted or oiled? or bare? How long ago?
It may be the dry weather has shrunk the tenons or braces, allowing it to get out of shape. It's possible it could be coaxed back to square with no shaving. Pics?

We just hung a door this weekend, what a chore! We created the doorway ourselves and properly braced, still it wasn’t perfect but through my careful joinery got it to fit, even drilled out the door to perfection, then she got impatient and did the latch recess on the frame and now only I with a really good shove can get the latch to close!! Also we bought the door a year ago and sadly it’s warped a bit at the top!

Her dad’s a handy genius so going to see what he thinks when he comes 👍

I wouldn't even remove the door to do this, I've worked on site doing first and second fix.