[Closed] DIY woodworker/Joiner types..

Properly sealed you'll get 10 years out of the softwood, or use C16 which will last longer.

Get hardwood as they last longer as now they removed arsenic in the treatment which makes it crap

no need for hardwood, but it will last longer. but if you are painting why bother with a nice hardwood?

and why painted? you do realise that you'll just have to keep on painting them evrey few years. if you do paint it them treated will be fine.

if you do want hardwood then go to a reclamation yard and see if they have anything suitable. you might get lucky and find the gear you are looking for.

for long lasting with minimal maintainance go for cedar if you can afford - again not if you are going to paint

Tanalised timber the green stuff and treat /coiat with cuprinol oil based preservative

Don't paint - use a decent high build opaque stain instead. Less faff with blistering, peeling and all that rubbish that comes with paint.

And (IMO) forget cuprinol too - you need an end grain treatment like Ensele for any bits you cut, the rest will already have been pressure treated with a tested preservative so why bother adding something else already. Cuprinol's fine for non-treated wood but it's a bit belt, braces & kitchen sink for treated timber. Also make sure you avoid surfaces that can collect standing water eg. any horizontal elements have a slight fall away from the gate on the top surface.

Thanks for the replies. 🙂

I work in the agricultural fencing business and have big trouble with treated timber as the treatment only goes a couple mm into the timber

just because its called hardwood, it doesn't mean its durable, balsa wood is classed as a hardwood. i've had so called mahogany thats physically softer than pine, and have replaced mahogany windows that where less than 10 years and had turned to mush. modern life is rubbish

So I'm none the wiser hehehe

USE SOFT WOOD WHICH IS UsUALLY A WHITE COLOUR AND TREAT WITH PRESERVATIVE TO WHAT EVER COLOUR YOU WANT , USE AN OilBASED PRESERVATIVE, NOT A WATER BASED EMULSION ONE

Sorry for capitals, just cant be bothered typin the above out again

metal

Another quick question for any joiner on the forum... Gates are progressing well but I need to cut a large peice of wood with a curve. The wood is 75mm thick (way too thick for my feable bandsaw. I need to put a curve into it similar to the top of this gate..

[img] [/img]

So it's too thick for either my bandsaw or my jigsaw.. Considered having a go with the chainsaw then spending the next decade sanding it down but considered that idea stupid.. Any suggestions please????

Yes, draw the shape you want on it, walk into a joinery shop with a tenner and smile.

Yes, draw the shape you want on it, walk into a joinery shop with a tenner and smile.

I shall try that sir 😉

Gates now complete (used a chainsaw for the curv then tidied up with plane/sander) Not ideal I admit, but it worked. All framework joints are doweled and glued, then screwed for extra diy enthusiasm/piece of mind.

Pic here for anyone interested of first one complete.. [url= ]LINK[/url]

Anyway... Unfortunately they weight an absolute ton !! way more than I anticipated.

Wooden posts will be bolted/screwed to corner of house. What bolts screws should I use??

Any suggestions please??

nice bit of work that.
[url= http://www.acefixings.com/index.php?option=shop&page=shop.product_details&product_id=752&l=uk&utm_source=google&utm_medium=base ]concrete bolts[/url] and maybe some resin?

Thanks for that.. Never seen them before. Do they really work?

Have this terrible vision of ripping the corner off the house 🙁

Nice job!

Resin wall-anchors will be fine. About 5 of 'em should do it.

Most expansion bolts and "screw in" style masonry anchors don't work well near to corners - you'll risk the wall material (brick or concrete) cracking and failing. Try to spread the load into the wall as evenly and as far away from the corner as possible - several chemfix/resin type anchors would be my choice. Gates look really good - what wood did you end up using ?

That looks very nice considering the tool used! 🙂

what wood did you end up using ?

I Just used that treated green stuff as I'm planning on painting them anyway.

Very nice handiwork there. Well done!
What was the technique for the chainsaw bit?
Also - what wood +1?

Very nice handiwork there. Well done!
What was the technique for the chainsaw bit?
Also - what wood +1?

According to the merchant site it was 'High pressure Tanalith E treaded Scandinavian softwood'.

The chainsaw was used to roughly cut the top curved bar as it was too thick for the bandsaw. [url= ]LINK[/url]

Sorry to ask another question but I've never seen this polyester resin/anchor bolt before.

So if I get some of these the correct length [url= http://www.acefixings.com/twister-bolts-b90 ]BOLTS[/url]

and some of this [url= http://www.screwfix.com/p/no-nonsense-polyester-resin-380ml/33554 ]RESIN[/url]

Do I simply drill the holes, fill with resin and immediatelly screw into it then leave to set?

I've used a number of different systems, [url= http://www.fischer.co.uk/PortalData/18/Resources/fixing_systems/salesinformation/_documents/01chemicalfixings/17.pdf ]these[/url] would work well for your application.

when you said you'd used your chainsaw for the curve, I assumed you were an idiot like me and stubboness would mean you'd have rubbish looking gates forever more. But no, you've done a tidy job there, well done.

Bolt wise, I used metal expanding bolts into brick to hang my punchbag with and it never so much as wobbled, a few of these on each gate post would I'm sure do the trick. Or, my gates are held up by large railway sleepers as gateposts, buried at least foot into concrete, though one of these has now been disturbed by tree roots so it sits at an angle, which is annoying!

PS. remember to adhere to the guidelines regarding cleaning out dust from the holes you drill, otherwise the resin will bond to that rather than the brick substrate.

Superb chainsaw wielding...!

[img] [/img]

Next time use a router to get the curve, 5mm at a time if you've only a little one.