MegaSack DRAW - This year's winner is user - rgwb
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Hello
I've come to replace a double socket faceplate and the positioning for the connecting points on the new socket is different such the neutral wire will no longer reach the connector.
Can I safely extend the neutral cable with one of those extendy block things and appropriate wire?
Also, should the faceplate sit snug and straight against the housing "box"? As the fixing screws of the new faceplate are the same as the old one I assumed it would fit but it seems I need a new "box" to suit the new faceplate?
Cheers!
Back box screw positions are pretty universal so no issue there. Sounds like who ever wired it up originally was a little frugal with the wire. What sort of wall is the cable in, if behind plaster board a sharp tug might give the extra inch or two needed.
Edit - might also be possible to reroute the wire into a new back box via a different aperture to gain the extra length. Can be a pig to do though, had to do it a couple of weeks ago to replace a back box I'd stripped the thread on. Faceplate fits flush against the plaster, not necessarily the back box which could be recessed, you can get longer screws.
[i]a sharp tug might give the extra inch or two needed. [/i]
as with so many things in life I suspect this is going to lead to disappointment.
Yes it could just come off in your hand.
It's an old 1930's brick and plaster wall.
I tried tugging but nothing happened and I don't want to tug too hard for fear of pulling the wire out of the wall all the way up!
I've tried using a different apertures but to no avail :-/
As long as the connection is in the knockout box its fine. Connectors blocks, crimps etc are all acceptable ways to extend the cable.
through crimp is the preferred.
Is the connector block ok just sat floating around in the back box bit of the socket or does it need insulation taping?
I've got some 2.5mm cable, presumably that's ok?
Ta
tape it up
and
would imagine so, 2.5 is standard ring main size I believe