MegaSack DRAW - This year's winner is user - rgwb
We will be in touch
No poo jokes please.
I bought some connectors to replace the crap Lupine ones I've had for years (but I bought them the same - I'm an idiot, I know) and the pins are crimp-on, they look like this:
[img] 
[/img]
Now I've never had a crimping tool, I've always bodged it, but I might change that. Seems that some crimp tools are expensive (like any tool) and some cheap. I'm not exactly sure how they're meant to work though so I'm not sure how to evaluate a candidate.
This thing is on Screwfix for £7.49:
[img] https://s7g3.scene7.com/is/image//ae235?src=ae235/9700C_P&$prodImageLarge$ [/img]
Will it work with these pins? Presumably the bits between the handle and the pivot are where you crimp? Can't see how this would close up the grabby bits in the top pic - is it not compatible?
No it won't.
You'll need a Molex crimping tool.
I used to have one and it might still be in the garage, if your are Central Scotland based your welcome to borrow it if I can find it!
Molex tool would be ideal. Otherwise a pair of pliers and some solder as the pliers don't normally crimps tight enough to be replaible over time
The proper molex tool is very expensive (£300) but there are cheap copies on ebay for about £20 or even less. I have a cheap one that does the crimping just fine but it is a little fiddly to use so interested in any recommendations for a cheapy alternative.
The head should look a bit like this (just need the right size for your connector):
[img] 
[/img]
The world of crimp tools. Nearly every crimp requires a different tools. Bodging it with a tool like the screwfixo one doesn't work well.
Good quality crimping pliers are a joy to use, ratcheting ones are even better.
I've had a pair of molegrip/visegrip style Facom ones for thirty years, they were pricey at the time but have provided sterling service.
These Sykes Pickavant ones are amazing value.
If you are looking for insulated crimping terminals have a look at Beal UK, I bought a load of terminals, shrink wrap, zip ties and a wheen of other consumables from them years ago and still haven't worked my way through them.
yeah you need a ratchet tool mate, to get enough force so the wire stays in place. Proper crimps too, what you got there is for soldering.
Bear in mind I do an average of one crimp job every five years, so I want the bare minimum of functionality. There is a ratcheting one on screwfix.
Otherwise I will solder.
in that case, stick with soldering. Tricky little job though...
[quote=nickjb ]The proper molex tool is very expensive (£300) but there are cheap copies on ebay for about £20 or even less.
The latter might be interesting - personally I use Molex connectors the same as the OP and I've always soldered and then crimped using a tool like the one in the OP (something I had anyway - the main point is to add strain relief). A lot more time consuming, but then if you're not doing lots of them it doesn't seem worth shelling out on the proper tool (I've done a few of those, but only into the 10s)
Might get the cheap tool if it helps the prelude to soldering..? Or just use pliers or something?
Maybe fold the tabs over then hit it with a punch and hammer...
[url= https://www.screwfix.com/p/ratchet-crimping-tool-1-0-10mm/96561 ]This one is the cheap Screwfix ratcheting one.[/url] Can't quite see where those teeth go in that picture.
That's for a different style of crimp. You need one with jaws that look like the picture I posted. Try googling molex crimp
[url= http://uk.farnell.com/molex/63811-1000/crimp-tool/dp/1703928?mckv=Kbfu9hLr_dc|pcrid|78108377229|&gross_price=true&CATCI=aud-294759717834:pla-131229622629&CAAGID=14989678509&CMP=KNC-GUK-GEN-SHOPPING-MOLEX&CAGPSPN=pla&gclid=Cj0KCQiAgs7RBRDoARIsANOo-HiFY_QECGBVnqgBVfbdXWQoTps1NJbqd0GfuFwq4cTzaw8kEsT95xUaAjmAEALw_wcB&CAWELAID=120173390000291534 ]Could be good? Still a bit pricey to be worth it though.[/url]
[url= https://www.cablematic.co.uk/ref/ML31?gclid=Cj0KCQiAgs7RBRDoARIsANOo-HiThHU_hatecNKu-qSN0ObIC2RdHxmlhvn_BCHQ3VF0SC5Pv26vr8kaAqEcEALw_wcB ]Also more noddy one.[/url]
Just solder and use pliers if that's what you've got. I think both of your links are for different connectors.
There's a £20 one on Amazon that looks like it'll work but only two sizes, and it's not clear if that's my size or not.
So yeah, solder. Case closed, thanks folks 🙂
Sounds like we've already persuaded you, but in case it helps, some of my soldered and crimped (with the wrong tool) connectors were done over 10 years ago and I've never had a failure.
Pretty sure I've soldered these in the past too. I just need to be careful I don't squash them flat to the point they don't fit in the holes any more.
PS If anyone wants links to the RS parts for replacement lupine connectors, I now have them.
If you solder, use lead solder (red reel), lead free solder is generally hopeless on anything subject to movement.
Obviously your lights are to be used in the military and/or aerospace so it's perfectly legal.
Looks very similar to the pins in back of my car stereo.
I did a home made aux in cable and just crimped with pliers. Was a tricky job as the wires were so fine, but has so far held up just fine.