As above, been offered one, pretty high mileage, but velly good priiiice...
Estate...
Only the usual really, cam belt and any service history. Turbo oil leaks and oil at intercooler but most have some degree of oil.
migratory elk
Make sure the passenger carpet isn't damp. Poke it hard with your finger so any water in the foam underlay soaks through. VW, for some reason known only to themselves, decided to put one of the most expensive parts (the Cabin Control Module) of the car in the only part that floods easily.
The pollen filter box is just under the windscreen, and in my case it floods in. It was a recall job in Canada and the USA, they never applied it here so we have to pay when it inevitably goes wrong.
Sure this could happen with any tdi but a mate of mine had turbo on his pack in which was over a grand to sort
Hora will be along shortly to say he's 'thinking of getting one....'
😉
the over inflated price tag 😆
Got one which we bought with 118k on the clock, now got 180k on the clock and it has been a good buy, but the turbo looks like it now needs replacing. Interim fault which is due to the variable vanes sticking. One way to check is to drive under load gently up a hill and the usually makes it kick into limp home mode.
Apart from that mine has been a great car to own. Just now at the dilema with the car being worth about 1200quid do i spend the best part of a grand to keep it going.
Air pollen filter housings can get cracked when windscreens are replaced and cost over £200 for the part! If it is fitted with air con make sure that the air con drain tube is not blocked as this also can cause water in the front nearside foot well. The most common cause is actually the bulkhead drain plug which is below the battery (you can access it under the bulkhead if you have thin hands and reach over the power steering rack and under the bulkhead, it will feel like a stiff flower head use some warm water and fairy liquid poured into the battery bay and this should with vigorous finger action release any bunged up rotting leaves and more so for us bikers, pine needles).
Air mass meters can go a knacker but are not to dear-high fuel comsumption and general lack of power or flat spots are symptoms of this.
Watch out for a build up of muck in the fold of the front door seals too as this too can allow water to seep in near to the kick panels.
Any clunks from suspension is not too costly as there are a large number of easily replaced bushes. Check the undertrays are secure as they are mighty dear too.
I know that it sound horrendous but these are all problems that I have encountered in my 8 years of owning the same model (1998)but I have now added 104000 miles to the original 48000.
Fantastic biking/family workhorse!
I'm potentially being offered it for nothing, its a family members car, so I can afford a bit of upkeep...
Hora will be along shortly to say he's 'thinking of getting one....'
Arse! 😀
Hainey- how do you spot/diagnose the issue with yours? Hope its not terminal/that expensive 🙁
Crikey- Why are you asking the question?! TAKE IT!
Hainey have you tried exercising the Vanes with WD40?
"If you have sticky vanes they can be exercised through Vagcom (takes around 10 minutes, 20 if you want to do the EGR exercise routine as well) or cleaned up with a bit of a time and the right product (Innotec rings a bell)."
If you are getting it for free then can't be a bad thing. I have had the problems of water ingress. Make sure you get the drain plugs under the battery and the brake servo checked to make sure they drain properly.
I have put 30,000 miles on in 2 and a bit years and love the car.
Cam Belt need doing every 60,000 miles or every 4 years. Its a big job as the front bumper, rad etc have to be removed, I did mine myself or its about £350 in a good garage. If your doing it make sure the waterpump is also changed.
As bigsurfer has just said it's essential that the water pump is done at the same time as the cambelt. It's driven by the belt and the bearings are known to sieze which locks the pump solid and throws the cambelt off. About £90ish extra when the cambelt is done.
Hainey - That's the same issue they get with 2.5 t5 transporters. carb cleaner or similar is recommended to clean it up and stop it sticking.
Yup have tried all that.
Bugga
Fixed it!
😀
How?
A lot of patience.
I was suspicious it wasn't actually the turbo (despite what a couple of garages told me) so spent the afternoon doing some investigation and ended up taking off all the Vac hoses and checking them for damage / splits etc.
Last one i checked (from the N75 to the turbo EGR) found a split in it which wasn't visible due to the bend radius of the hose.
Down to the friendly VW dealer who cut me a new length for free, back fitted, done. Runs like a dream again.
Heh, I had a similar thing with my older passat. It's lovely when you fix the simple stuff isn't it? 🙂
Yup,
Funny how i had paid £75 for a VW specialist to diagnose the problem including doing a vacuum check!!! 🙄
Only problem is now i've fixed it and decided to keep it, needs the timing belt changed!!!
hainey - I have the same dilemma you had and still can't decide. Mine's a 143k 2000 tdi se estate with everything working and just sailed through MOT but needs a service and cambelt done c£500. Also worried bout clutch and exhaust before too long though may not happen for years yet. Sinking £600 plus into a 10yr old car knowing that if owt else goes I'll be inclined to repair it is proving tricky. Honda FRV is tempting me for the 6 seats and a decent boot but spending £10k isn't!
I hate thinking about never buying a new car..........
Ps If only my VW specialist hadn't put me off a newer passat because of the build quality and silly bills re the electronic handbrake.... and the Touran didn't get slated for lots of expensive failures..... Better the car I know maybe as I do like it alot.
Dave you are facing the facts of car ownership.. it's why old cars are cheaper than new ones 🙂
PS new passats are lovely. Electronic handbrake is fine if you know how to use it...
I've got the same dilemma with my '99 TDi Octavia.
According to my mechanic* it really needs the cambelt changing (last done 5 years and 30,000 miles ago). But its Service and MOT is due in June so I'm inclined to wait till then to see of anything else needs doing!!
(*says it need changing due to age not mileage - does anyone else agree with that, or would you leave it for another 10k!?)
For me now the turbo issue is fixed its a no-brainer to get the timing belt changed. I know the car very well - ex-company car no expense spared for the first 5 years and i have serviced it myself since i have had it so no the pedigree of it all. My local garage are will change the timing belt plus ancillaries including popping a new water pump on for just under 300 notes so for the money its not really a lot to spend on it even if it only lasts another year (taking depreciation into account on a newer car!) My Mrs has the nice new car, i love bangernomics so will keep going!