If you needed an extra 10mm or so to get a dropper post to the correct height at full extension. Would you saw a bit off the top of the seat tube?
Looks like it [b]could[/b] be trimmed down as the slot's quite long.
Fine toothed hacksaw or something else?
Flip no?
Hmmm, depends how much you like the warranty.
NO
get some shorter cranks 8)
get some shorter cranks
This had also crossed my mind.
I'd still need another 5mm though.
Not a chance.
I'd rather take a 10 mm off my legs.
Use a qr and a normal post
I'd rather take a 10 mm off my legs.
That'd make it worserer. 😆
Not unless you have CynicAl on speed dial.
The thing is if it was an alloy frame i'd just get the file out and not think twice about it.
Just a bit unsure about what would happen to the edge after cutting carbon.
Though having said that plenty of people cut carbon bars down.
Depends on what frame it was and just how much seat tube extended above the seat cluster. Certainly wouldn't rule it out. However, do you have the short travel version of whatever post you have?
Could you put a spacer in the post to reduce travel but 10mm?
Yep, no qualms about modding frames - first thing I do with a new frame is drill out all the cable guides so I can run full outers. Then lift all the transfers off...
I'd consider it. Accept the warranty make be screwed and ask the manufacturer, or find a friend in F1 / Aerospace who works with carbon... or something but I think you get my drift...
No problem.
May affect resale tho.
Do you want me to do it stu?
Thicker pedals, taller saddle?
EDIT shorter saddle!
"what would happen to the edge after cutting carbon"
IIRC its while cutting that you want to be worried/careful. Very much following the blurb of those carbon cutting hacksaws/cutting guides (cant remember the brand) but you cant use a normal blade as it'll tear/rip/whatnot too much and risk breaking something? Presumable you'd need a very fine blade and a guide to brace around the cut and at least a dust mask, ideally some eye protection for the dust?
How pricey is this carbon frame? £££ or ££££? and new or s/h?
170mm cranks and a low height saddle? Fatter pedals? Fatter soled shoes?
I'll pass on that offer thanks al. 😆
Fatter soled shoes you say?
These?
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Or these maybe?
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f--- that.
New saddle? WTB silverados have a really low drop from body to rail (so much so they wont work with a joplin without fouling on the cable-pull lever with body weight on the shell) but depending on your saddle you could make up the 10mm- I put a Rocket V on the joplin-equipped bike and there is at least 10mm difference.
Whilst probably not easier, almost certainly a better option to modify the dropper post so it doesn't extend quite as far. Depends what make it is, but certainly on some of them it should be quite easy, just make up a 10mm spacer and fit inside like you would when spacing a Rockshox Reba fork down in travel.
170mm cranks will of course help. Saddle heights range wildly too. What you got on there now? I've had one saddle very nearly an inch taller than another before, so quite possibly just buy a shallower saddle.
I would.
if you lop some off the top you will need to make the clamp slot deeper and that is the bit I would worry about.
Hell yes
Please post detailed before and after pictures!
😆
Personally i wouldnt do it but it can be done if ride quality is more important than warrenty
Ive done similar on alloy frame to reduce headtube length - which had i asked on here would result in certain death .....
Fine toothed saw and some clear nail varnish on the finished edge to stop water ingress.
Thumbs up from me .....
Its not that much different to cutting carbon steerers ......
Fine toothed saw and some clear nail varnish on the finished edge to stop water ingress.
I've only got trampy red. Will that do? 😀
Just use a seat clamp as a cutting gauge and get the saw/Dremmel on it
no problem
Some carbon frames with extended seat post have to be modded (Yeti did one) to suit the rider height
I'd give it a go
Because its carbon, its likely that the area where the clamp goes will only be 10/15mm deep to allow a clamp to fit. Going lower than that you'll probably get the carbon starting to 'merge' with the top tube and as such, there won't be sufficient room to get a clamp to sit flat on the tube if you know what I mean. Personally, I'd look at trying to space the dropper so it has 10mm less travel. I certainly wouldn't be going anywhere near the frame with a saw. Maybe with a steel or alloy frame but no way with carbon. If it starts to split when you're cutting it etc then you've borked it.
If you do do it, consider inserting an old seat post (or part thereof) to support the inside of the carbon as you cut.
Try it on someone else's first?
are you a man or a mouse ? get on with it boy !
Personally, I'd look at limiting the maximum extension on the dropper post.
I'm disappointed that this thread is 12 hours old and the saw still hasn't cone out!
Sawing Carbon is easy.
The problem starts if you then rely on a piece that not ‘layed-up’ to deal with the forces you are now imparting on it. Look at any carbon fishing rod, the spigots look different for a reason.
A fine toothed saw will do the job.
Physics will do the rest.!
NOt the frame. Can the post be trimmed Or a shorter one purchased?
what seatpost?
Why not just get a 100 mm dropper instead of the usual 125 mm one would have thought that might help!!!
Cuban heels = win
Quick question...how do you drill out cable guides??!!
I'm not daft, but would think the drill body would prevent you getting properly parallel to the guide - do you just accept a wonky drill out?
DrP
Quick answer...Bloody carefullyhow do you drill out cable guides??!!
yes, the chuck will mean you have a wonky line (and I always shield the frame with a bit of metal sheet too, which worsens the offset
Works OK though