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RP..what sort of price are we talking for the whole bike?Might be tempted if cheap enough!It is a large no?
I'm using fatty strippers on BR2250 wheels. Setup couldn't be easier.
Apparently you can reuse them, but you need to carefully part the tyre from the fatty stripper as they get stuck together with the sealant.
I trimmed mine, but I'd say still reusable as the fatty stripper should still fit in the bead of the rim refitted.
Just need to lube them up to get the tyre bead to slide into place.
I used Stan's valves, just cut some old inner tube circles, think I used 3 on each valve.
Poke a small hole in the middle and put into the valve.
Hold the wheel horizontal, push the valve against something like a tabletop while pushing your bodyweight against the wheel.
Then screw up the locknut as tight as you can on the valve.
As most fatty rims are single wall, there isn't enough thread to get the lock nut tight enough on the valve to stop air leaking.
That's why I used the circles cut from an inner tube or even a fat rubber washer. For good measure I used two lock nuts on the valve.
Not sure if I'd want a Bluto on mine TBH -Part of the reason I bought it was to have a maintenance free bike that could be ridden all year, washed when I felt like it that just needed a spot of lube on the chain now & again.....Apart from a few upgrades & greasing the headset a couple of times it has been exactly that. Now I'm running 4.8 JJ's on it I don't feel the need for a bouncy fork, got other bikes for that...
RP..what sort of price are we talking for the whole bike?Might be tempted if cheap enough!It is a large no?
It is indeed a large although a "whole bike" could be a problem as it's currently in bits 🙂 I think I'm only a brake adaptor and a set of cables away from having all the bits to build it back up again, but finding the time to actually do that is another matter.
I'm not at the stage of giving it away, but happy to let it go to a good home for a "fair price". So, if you fancy a fatbike in kit form feel free to message me 🙂
Calibre Dune owners, I've just changed my wheels so now have the original wheels set up tubeless with On One Floaters that are surpluses to requirements. They've done October to March so not a lot of use.
Anybody interested as a winter wheel set up to save you swapping tyres?
I've no real idea of value but I imagine postage will be costly. email in profile.
I'm near Huddersfield if that helps.
...and I could hook you up with some alost new 4.8 jumbo jims to go with it!
John
My dude has been on a diet..
Hope fatsno hubs with XM551 27.5 rims..the grass hasn't been on a diet!
Yes the logos don't match up, but the tyres were so tight on the rim I couldn't be bothered to wrestle them round.
Have to take them off anyway as the gorrila tape supplied isn't holding them up tubeless, will try some 30mm tubeless tape I have.
Maybe I need two runs overlapping?
Diameter wise the ranger 3.0 are roughly 725mm, the 4.0 Jumbo Jim's measured 735mm.
If we take into account the higher pressure run on the rangers and less tyre sag, I've probably not changed the bottom bracket height.
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Had a quick spin round the block, and it feels very flickable and nimble
emac65 - Member
Not sure if I'd want a Bluto on mine TBH....blah blah blahPosted 3 days ago #
Ahem..... Well, that was before some git posted a PSA that On one were doing them for £299............. 😳
They're up to £350 now, still a bargain but I'd have to get a new front wheel/hub as well for my Wazoo so that adds a pile on too unfortunately
Anyone tried Schrader tubeless valves, especially with Fatty Strippers?
I'm just wondering whether Schrader would fit the valve cutout better in my Dune wheels, less faffing with old inner tube packing/spacers, and no need to take the valve cores out to get air in a hurry?
Or am there just as well off using valves cut out of old inner tubes packed out to fit?
I used schrader valves and fatty strippers. It was for dd30 wheels.
How'd it work out Elefant?
[url= https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4240/35006981573_caa7eb32c5_o.jp g" target="_blank">https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4240/35006981573_caa7eb32c5_o.jp g"/> [/img][/url][url= https://flic.kr/p/VkrVZP ]Fatty-2[/url] by [url= https://www.flickr.com/photos/146501625@N06/ ]John Stanley[/url], on Flickr
I've just put it in For Sale. [/worststealthadever]
How'd it work out Elefant?
Still up 18 months later.
I'm find that 28 on the front and 11-42 cassette is leaving me wanting a higher gear on the flats/fire roads.
Currently no 30t direct mount chairing for ethirteen crank..
Anybody know of another manufacturer who does direct mount for ethirteen cranks?
Have a look at absolute black bit pricy though.
Has anyone ridden/got wheels with Alex Blizzerk 90 rims?
Merlin are doing wheelsets for £415 built on Surly hubs, really easy to go tubeless apparently.
That's it! After yet another puncture I finally wrestled with sealant, tubeless valves and Fatty Strippers to get my winter Nates setup tubeless on the standard rims - what a palaver!
First tried without the foam backing rods to build up the rim - flabby as a flabby thing and the compressor wasn't doing anything.
Tyres off, Fatty Strippers off, foam rods installed loose underneath (I remembered a comment somewhere that the Fatty Strippers would hold them in place) - you can't get Nates over the rim without locating the bead towards the centre, which pushes the foam rods to the centre, which means they do f-all, and second try - flabby as a flabby thing, compressor did nothing.
Third try - spray mount the foam rods to build up the edge of the rim, Fatty Strippers back on - again you can't get the Nates over the rim without locating the beads in the centre of the rim, then how do you get the bead over the foam rods to sit against the edge of the rim? I plumped for the blunt end of a chopstick to lift the bead section by section over the foam rod to sit tight against the rim edge, and voila! Worked (third) time, but there must be an easier way....! Trying to keep the Fatty Strippers over the edge of the rim while doing all that heaving around of the bead was an exercise in frustration.
They've held up for three days so far, still leaking slightly yesterday through the cut outs - I think one of the Fatty Strippers must have had a hole in it from all the faffing. Today it's stopped and they're still at pressure, so I'm hoping that's it but going to order some spare Strippers just in case they need (more carefully) re-doing.
I finally wrestled with Fatty Strippers
Each to their own I suppose. 😆
Hey...
Haven't been here for a while. This thread and the many posts re the Dune are what led me to getting one myself 18months ago.
Anyway, sorry to bump the current agenda, but just a quick question for all of you Dune owners, more specifically... those of you who have switched cranks etc. How'd you get those things off. I've munched an extractor trying to remove mine. Any advice would be gratefully received
Just used a normal square taper extractor & they came off easily enough..
Sorry to resurrect a thread, it's taken me about a week to read all 60 pages!! Picking up a new to me Calibre Dune on Tuesday evening so good to do some background reading. Second hand so despite being 5ft 7/8 I've gone for the large because having ridden both in the closest GoOutdoors both felt fine. The medium already had a longer stem on than I like and similarly the large does to so I'll be fitting a 50mm maximum to the new large. Contemplating new carbon bars and stem for the Bronson so I can filter down a set of carbon bars and better stem down to the Dune. Priority for me is going to be setting up tubeless, I might go as far as to pick up some new wheels with fatty strippers to make the job easier for myself. With the cost of the bike I reckon I can just about fork out for some wheels plus other bits but it's just the right price point for novelty factor!
Welcome to the Fat club!
Pity your missing out on global fat bike day this Saturday!
Hi all. Thanks to this thread I bought a Dune!
Unfortunately I'm having some crank issues... lost the crank bolt on my maiden voyage and the DS fell off. Cranks are Raceface Ride. I've replaced the bolt but on fitting it up, i think i may also have lost a crank axle spacer. I've now got 10-15mm too much axle when torqued up!
Anyone have the same cranks and can confirm? It must be a drive side spacer as there looks to be a spacer on the NDS already.
Lastly, where the flip can i source one of these??
Your LBS should be able to help with spacers. I recently got some hope ones (for a new hope chainset), were a couple of quid each I think. May have to order them in.
Edit - check whether you've got a 24 or 30mm axle first and order accordingly!
I see that everyone's favourite Yorkshire based online serial discounters are selling [i]Maxxis Mammoth 120TPI Tubeless Ready[/i] for £35. Are they better than the [i]Kenda Juggernaught Pro[/i] that the Calibre Dune is shod with...?
I wouldn't want to use the Mammoth during the winter but could be a good dry condition tyre.
Very good price though !
I've not looked in months, but try Athleteshop for JJs and other fat tyre deals.
JJ's are not winter tyres but are great otherwise I believe.
The 4.4" and especially the 4.8" JJs have more knob tread depth than the 4" versions, but I think Northwind on here swears by Bud and Lou for winter riding, for better traction at the cost of weight.
Yep Bud & Lou are supposed to be good all year with Nate's being even better in mud.
I've gone with a Minion up front. I haven't fitted the rear one, I'm just about managing with the Ground Control out back.
I would be patient and buy 2nd hand. My Minions were like new, £100 the pair.
And my Ground Controls were also like new and came with a free pair of Hope/BR710's for £350..
Finally taken the plunge on upgrading my Dune, and bought a Bluto fork, a race face chainset and some new shiny XT gears.
I wanted to wait until the 8 speed stuff wore out, but that looks like it'll take ages! the bottom bracket doesn't look too healthy now either - very rusty, but actually works fine. I was bored and any excuse to buy new bits really.
Got a 100mm bluto from amazon for £290! They only had one in stock, but I think its coming from their French warehouse as "next day delivery" has it arriving on Monday. 🙁
I've got a 30t hope N/W chainring at home to use with it. Thinking of sticking a 22t granny on the chainset too, thought it may be fun to see what I can get it up with a 22 x 42 gear! 🙂
Got a link to that bluto grenosteve? Is it new? What model?
Edit, just seen they only had one... well if you fancy selling it on, or swapping it for a white one...
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01F9KJNF8
Yea, Amazon only had one in stock I'm afraid. No idea why it was £290 when other companies sell on the same advert for £500+, but I jumped at it.
Really enjoyed my Dune. But it remains the only frame thats ever failed on me.
I'll be interested to hear how you get on with the Bluto.
When I "upgraded" my ICT to the Dude I put a Bluto on it straight away, then for some reason struggled to find the motivation to ride it. Not sure why, as I'd loved riding the heavy, rigid ICT the year before, but I ended up spending most of last summer riding my trail bike instead. Then the winter came and I put rigid forks on the Dude (with a 4.8" Bud up front) and I'm loving it again. I'm still planning to put the Bluto back on if Spring ever comes (maybe with a 4.8 Jumbo Jim on the front) but it wasn't the obvious improvement that I'd expected.
"n0b0dy0ftheg0at
The 4.4″ and especially the 4.8″ JJs have more knob tread depth than the 4″ versions, but I think Northwind on here swears by Bud and Lou for winter riding, for better traction at the cost of weight."
Bud and Lou are great but I actually use the Minions. Partly because I think having a 4.8 minion is awesome, but mostly because they're just a bit more <fun>- Bud and Lou are implacable and soak up everything, Minions have more bounce and play to them.
Though, this winter I stuck with FBF front and JJ 4.8 rear, purely because my compressor blew up, and it's worked OK. The 4.0 JJ is ****-all use if it's wet but the 4.8 does better- it's not really any more floaty but it's more toothy.
In a similar vein I stuck with the 4.4 JJ on the back of my Dude this winter, paired with a Bud up front. I preferred that combo to the Bud/Lou I ran last year (anybody looking for a Lou 🙂 ) as it seemed almost as secure with a lot less drag. If I were just riding snow (or sand) I'd go Bud/Lou or Minions (which I've not tried) but even up here it's rare to have snow the whole ride and when we have the Bud/JJ combo seems to have coped fine.
There's some decent upgrade bits at PX at the mo for people with cheaper fatbikes, such as the white RDS carbon fork* for £75 and the odd Knuckleball chewy bars for £40/50.
* You will need an RDS hubbed wheel to fit it, which are very hard to source these days, or take a chance on filing down a milled brake adaptor. Plus the £5 carbon fork bung.
Well the dune is now 1x11, and has a bluto.
I went with a 30 tooth chainring, and the cassette is 11-42. May consider the 46 in the future as I run it with 4.8 minions and it's quite a heavy beast on the longer hills, but 42 is doable. Biggest plus point is from the clutch mech, it's now quiet on rocky stuff instead of the heavy 8 speed chain constantly rattling off the chainstay, which is nice.
The bluto is great, only done a few downhill runs on it so far and you can carry even more speed over stuff as bigger roots and rocks just get eaten up. It feels like it would be super easy to get in trouble now though, I've had a few high speed run-offs through the bushes in the past when I've compressed the tyres too much and they squirm and follow a camber, and now it's even faster so I think I'll have to keep an eye on that.
I've also raised my bars up quite a bit with about 30mm of spacers under the stem, which looks naff, but I like how it rides now.
I actually only put some air in the fork, so I've not played with the slow speed rebound or the other rebound on the bottom of the fork yet.
I've read that the bluto's are flexy, but I couldn't;t feel any, and I'm not sure it would matter anyway when the contact point with the floor has a few inches of inbuilt flex!
It's looking like a right freak of a bike now - It's got Love Mud Confucious bars + bag (fat bike inner tubes are too big and heavy for a saddle pack, and I hate wearing a backpack), PDW fat fender and other mudguards strapped to it, and those 4.8 tyres look massive even for a fat bike!
That sounds great grenosteve.
How do you find the love mud bars? I'm tempted as they are a fair chunk cheaper than the Moloko bars I keep looking at!
On a more general note: anyone know why the UK fat bike forum is down? Any ideas even it'll be back online?
They're ok, bit stiffer than the bars I took off, but as it's a fat bike it's not really an issue. They're also almost flat, so you need to consider that if you have risers on.
The bags a really handy bit of kit though, can get a jacket, fat inner tube, pump, multitool, some snacks and full size puncture kit in there with a bit of room to spare. I've not tried strapping a drybag directly to it, but it works well with an Alpkit harness and drybag, plus you can still use the little confucious bag with the alpkit harness.
Thanks.
I have read reviews that mention the stiffness of the bars.
Currently I have salsa salt flat bars on my Pug.
https://www.merlincycles.com/ritchey-commando-fat-bike-frameset-2017-110841.html
Might tempt some for £180 frameset.
i'm after a dune of a wazoo in a medium in case anyone's selling
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