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Ha. Hopefully you can beat the stock price then
Pretty sure it's not the same rim as the Tundra? Might be the same basic extrusion but the cutouts are different and it's a fair bit heavier claimed weight in emmenthal/Dune/Porg form
Ha. Hopefully you can beat the stock price then
Should be, if nothing else it'll get the aftermarket version of the forks and my choice of finishing kit.
Pretty sure it's not the same rim as the Tundra? Might be the same basic extrusion but the cutouts are different and it's a fair bit heavier claimed weight in emmenthal/Dune/Porg form
Pretty sure it is, saw them side by side and they looked identical apart from the cutouts. The Halo does have bigger cutouts. What's the difference in weight, I've not seen one listed for the dune/emmental?
Really fancied Surly MOBD rims, but seems they're the same high prices as all their others.
p.org says 940g for the rim with round holes and 2 rows of spoke holes. So it'll be a wee bit heavier in the 32h version. Halo say 870g. Course, either or both could be Made Up Bollocks.
the El Guapo hubs are pretty good by all accounts. Probably worthy of a rim upgrade in the future.
p.org says 940g for the rim with round holes and 2 rows of spoke holes. So it'll be a wee bit heavier in the 32h version. Halo say 870g. Course, either or both could be Made Up Bollocks.
That probably isn't far off, IIRC drilling knocks off ~150g, so another 70g isn't unreasonable a weight reduction.
Still, we're comparing rims that weigh 300g+ more than the cheap carbon stuff, what's 70g!
[url= http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/A-pair-x2-On-one-Fat-trail-26-x-4-0-Floater-fat-bike-Tyre-/291769743993?hash=item43eed4fa79:g:2~kAAOSwubRXMGTK ]A pair of Floaters on ebay for £37 delivered if anyone is after a bargain.[/url]
Cheers. Been watching them for ages but was too right to pay the postage. worth £37 now he's dropped the postage.
*tight
Rode this:
[url= https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7376/26915200920_ef600438bc_b.jp g" target="_blank">https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7376/26915200920_ef600438bc_b.jp g"/> [/img][/url][url= https://flic.kr/p/H1prwh ]Lakes MTB Trip - May 2016[/url] by [url= https://www.flickr.com/photos/alexleigh/ ]Alex Leigh[/url], on Flickr
after my pikes died in the Lakes. Just a 15km ride around Patterdale and Ullswater. I loved it tho, even tho it's the cooking version of the Farley. Rode everything I'd have ridden on the FS although some of the steppy stuff a bit slower. The 4.8 tyres were definitely better than my 4.0s - might have to get one for the front.
But funny shaped seat tube means I can't see how you'd get a dropper in there...
Nice.
But funny shaped seat tube means I can't see how you'd get a dropper in there...
You can* 🙂
The limiting factor is the bottle cage mounting boss (as on many frames).
*I have a 125mm x 420mm Reverb on mine (17.5" 'virtual' frame size), and it fits comfortably - I can drop it down another 1-2" before it hits the bottle cage boss in the frame.
Ah right o, I preferred it to my dune (although too small as it was the 17.5) - maybe it was the bigger tyres but it just felt a bit more floaty. The descent off the top of patter dale ridge was amazing, didn't slow me down at all and got back with massive grin on my face. And round ullswater just climbed over everything. Brill.
Great photo - scenery looks stunning.
Tempted to try a 4.5 or 4.8 up front myself.
I took my longest local decent at a STRAVA PB of 35mph last night - you know that point where you're having a great time at what seems like warp speed and then the little voice in your head goes ''if one of these components undeneath you happens to fail now, you'll be a in a real bad way'' ?
Whatever, will be going back to beat the time tonight!
Also fitted a KS Lev with lever operated action - looks nice and neat in place but so bloody fiddly reaching the lever on the move, especially when trying to stand and lift. Have promptly ordered some bits from the remote lever kit from ze germans and will be using a Spesh SRL lever I have laying around.
Guys, I need to commit to a chainset - Ideally want to run the Superstar 30t ring, and retain the Hope BB cups I have spare so a GXP crank in 104BCD would be ideal.
What are my options? I can't seem to get my head around the chainline/spacers/BCD/axle width/dropout width conundrum.
Great picture, but why do so few fatbikes have dropper posts fitted? It was the thing that surprised me most when I had a demo on a Surly Ice Cream Truck; a hooligan of a bike, but no dropper!
Great picture, but why do so few fatbikes have dropper posts fitted? It was the thing that surprised me most when I had a demo on a Surly Ice Cream Truck; a hooligan of a bike, but no dropper!
Depends on the bike, but most fat bikes are designed as XC bikes foremost. And as an N+1, so spending £200 on a dropper is probably an excessive extravagance. And get used on a beach (the salt would kill most droppers and their mediocre seals).
My fatty has a dropper though.
roverpig - MemberGreat picture, but why do so few fatbikes have dropper posts fitted? It was the thing that surprised me most when I had a demo on a Surly Ice Cream Truck; a hooligan of a bike, but no dropper!
I think a lot of people still don't see them as trailbikes tbh. And also see droppers as a thing only trailbikes need. (I put one on everything, my XC race bike had one and was all the better for it...).
Also though I assume if you regularily beach ride you'll kill any dropper in pretty short order?
We're getting a bit off topic, but surely XC riding (as opposed to racing) is when you most want a dropper. If you just winch up and plummet down a dropper may not be that useful, but for the frequent short downhill sections that you get on a typical XC ride they are great.
Fair point about beach riding though. I guess that kills anything that moves pretty quickly.
My fatty has always had a dropper, but I ride all trails I would on a normal bike
re the 4.0s vs 4.8s they're both good tyres and have their own characteristics
The 4.8s are definitely more floaty but by the same token they bob more. The 4.0s are a bit more critical on the pressures and have a slightly harsher ride but they don't bob as much, the steering feels more accurate and depending on where you ride they are easier to thread through narrow gaps. They don't get hung up/smear off stuff as much as the 4.8s
But the 4.0s are also less flattering than the 4.8s I have to ride the 4.0s with a bit more finesse instead of just riding over/through everything
A 4.0 on the back and a 4.8 on the front is a good compromise but personally I prefer the 4.0s f&r now conditions are drier
roverpig - MemberWe're getting a bit off topic, but surely XC riding (as opposed to racing) is when you most want a dropper. If you just winch up and plummet down a dropper may not be that useful, but for the frequent short downhill sections that you get on a typical XC ride they are great.
Aye, that's exactly how I feel too.
I've spent far too long trying to work out the intricacies of fat bike chainline/hub spacing/q factor.
In summary, its a bloody mine field and I almost wish I never bought the bloody thing as upgrading the cranks for optimum chainline presents a clusterf@€k of options.
Northwind - I'm settling on the Aeffect crank arms as amongst other reasons it appears they are compatible with my Hope BB - can I ask what paid for yours and with which chainring/arm length/axle length?
You mentioned pages ago about not being convinced about your chainline - i've devoured plenty of charts and reading and I 'think' the best option for a 190 spaced hub is to go for the shorter RF fat axle (167mm) and flip the direct mount chainring.
This gives a chainline of 72.5-74.5, close to ideal optimum, and a Q factor of 205mm.
With the 190mm axle you're running a chainline of 77.5-79.5mm and Q-factor of 228mm.
If you purchased the longer axle, then you could probably source the shorter version if you can be arsed?
This is theoretical at the moment as I am yet to measure my current Q-Factor and check the arm clearance on the chainstay. There's a possibility (I suppose) the the 205mm may not provide enough clearance.
Lastly, Woofstooth components make offset cinch chainrings (inc. oval) which im sure would offer you the chance to tweak your chainline further. I have several charts saved if you need them.
I think I paid £110 or therabouts for my Aeffects... For the 170mm. And yep as you say the narrower axle and a flipped ring- clears a 4.8 JJ or Bud with a bit of room to spare, not generous but more than adequate. I got it wrong first time and ordered the 190mm version, it's miles wider than a Dune needs. (mind you the 170mm version could be iffy with a double, I do not care).
Chainline's fine- not quite perfectly centred but tbf, I just don't care. It's not like you spend exactly equal times in every gear anyway. I reckon it's mostly a thing for the anally retentive to worry about rather than something that matters. If memory serves, it's ended up slightly offset to the inside which actually sounds like a not bad idea considering how much longer I spend in the low gears plodding up hills.
I got an absoluteblack oval... I think I was just too fast for the wolftooths. Which is a shame because absoluteblack geezer is a total fud and I didn't like giving him any money, or dealing with the pisstaking delivery times afterwards.
Droppers for fatties: Decathlon cheap non-remote comes in a 31.6, 100mm drop, 400mm post if you can find one. Mine cost £35 delivered last autumn and it's been great through it's first winter, perfect for the hooligan behaviour that a fat bike encourages. Mine doesn't do sand but a cruddy would help a lot with that anyway.
Anyone got crank or preferably replacement 104 ring ideas for the X5 on an O-O fatty?
Is it just a case of taking a grinder to a standard Shimano Deore steel 36t?
I reckon it's mostly a thing for the anally retentive to worry about
I'll be losing sleep tonight over this matter!
Am wondering myself about going for 170mm's, owing to my stubby legs.
Anyone got crank or preferably replacement 104 ring ideas for the X5 on an O-O fatty?
Swapped mine for an aeffect, when the RF BB blew up I've been using Shimano HT2. Ring is a works NW
[b]Serious bargain alert...[/b]
Go Outdoors is doing a 15% discount until May 31st with "15MAY2016" online code.
Buy Calibre Dune via Topcashback for 7.35% back on price paid.
[b]Means a Dune will eventually only cost you £456.76![/b] 😯
Got aeffect cranks with Shimano BB here, and I'm not sure what I'm doing with the crank nut.
If I tighten to 45 ftlbs, the BB doesn't spin freely, if I back it off to where the cranks spin freely, the bolt and the crank come loose in a few miles riding.
I've got 2 spacers each side, any fewer and there was room for the cranks to move side to side in the BB.
What am I doing wrong? Any ideas?
is it an mtb or road shimano BB?
I've got 2 spacers each side, any fewer and there was room for the cranks to move side to side in the BB.
Presumably it only matters when the bolts are done up though?
I've not used the newer RF cranks but the older ones had a rubber X-ring as well as the spacers, so add 1mm spacers and the rubber one takes up the fraction of a mm.
mtb HT2 BB.
I started with 1 spacer DS, then went 2DS 1 NDS, there was still a little room on the spindle when the crank nut was done up tight, so I put in another spacer.
??
I've got a gusset ext24 with my aeffects, which is pretty much the same dimensionwise as a shimano ht2. And likewise, 2DS 1 NDS spacer just like a 68mm shell, worked a charm.
Cheers nw.
So you tighten up the crank nut to 45ftlb and you're all set, no loosening of the nut and crank or stickiness in the BB bearing?
Bit confused how the bearings get preloaded correctly, without the adjuster you get on the Shimano cranks.
Fatty Trail frame £80 (less Topcashback)
The burning issue is can you wear Lycra on a fatty?
When it gets hot I find baggies of any kind too hot. All my other bikes are suitable for Lycra so what say ye?
In my case, yes. If I want to look like a string of sausages.
nedrapier - MemberSo you tighten up the crank nut to 45ftlb and you're all set, no loosening of the nut and crank or stickiness in the BB bearing?
Bit confused how the bearings get preloaded correctly, without the adjuster you get on the Shimano cranks.
Aye. Basically, if everything's the right size, then torquing the axle down fits everything up perfectly and takes out the play. Obvious possible issues with this are obvious. But it does work.
So that's it hopefully race ready, soloing the Glentress Seven on saturday. New wheels ridden on but not really tested, tubeless waiting to see if it stays up overnight (there's a plan B but it adds about 150g per wheel), bottle cage and saddlebag fitted but not filled, 4.8 JJ on the front and 4.0 on the back, 150mm dropper and 780mm wide bars... 27.2lbs. Not bad for a supermarket bike...
What wheels did you go for Northwind?
[i]Practically[/i] BR2250s- I got some cheap DT big ride hubs off ebay, from some weirdo that had downgraded to Hope, some BR710 rims, and
sapim lasers (*). Worked out a bit lighter than BR2250s, but more importantly cost me less 😆 Nice collection of parts, but assembled by a know-nothing idiot, me. So we'll see I guess.
Done them up with pallet wrap tubeless but I'm not very convinced that's going to hold. I found fitting the tyre with these tighter rims a lot harder with that method than it was on the dune and I don't think the wrap's quite right. Don't have time to troubleshoot it properly so I might have to revert to split tubes to get it reliable for now. Tested that quickly and it worked a charm (and stayed inflated for 2 days with no sealant!)
Very pleased anyway. It's a big weight reduction over stock, expensive obviously but I think it's worth it going by the testride.
(* incidentally I know Sapim don't recommend these for mtb use but I've had them in my #enduro 29er wheelset for a year and they've not flinched. They're equivalent to Revs, only cheaper. I did think about going with the CX-Rays- which is literally the same spoke, squished flat- for the critical aero bonus and wallet weight reduction)
Why only 4.0 out back? I may have missed that bit but the thread is huge lol 🙂
I'm debating now going 1x11 as the new 11-46 sunrace cassette is out and should go nice with a 32t oval ring on 104 cranks
Those dtswiss wheels are the boll*cks. I run them with jumbo jims on tubless and they feel so quick..ow much did it cost you all in for the wheels? I paid £480 for them from Ze Germans but have failed to find them in stock ever since.
Sorry to hijack this thread but was looking for some advice , Its cyclescheme time and I was considering a new bike. I have a Orange Crush for the woods and a carbon pro for the road so was considering either a fatbike or a cx .
Anyhoo my options are Genesis Caribou £880 , Felt DD70 Or Calibre Dune for £579.
What do the experts think. ?
It would be for the usual East lothian trails and a saunter down the East lothian coast.
Sorry to hijack this thread but was looking for some advice , Its cyclescheme time and I was considering a new bike. I have a Orange Crush for the woods and a carbon pro for the road so was considering either a fatbike or a cx .
Anyhoo my options are Genesis Caribou £880 , Felt DD70 Or Calibre Dune for £579.
If you are a basic rate tax payer, it might be cheaper to buy the Dune over this bank holiday...
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15MAY2016 code in basket
£580 Dune ends up ~£449 with Quidco 😉
Anyone fancy Maxxis Mammoth Exo 4.0s for £40? Best price I've seen for these by some margin! 😯
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firestarter - MemberWhy only 4.0 out back? I may have missed that bit but the thread is huge lol
Usually it's 4.8 both ends but I'm going XC racing 😆 So I've taken the minion off the front, put the 4.8 JJ from the back, on the front, and brought out my original 4.0 JJ to finish it. TBH I'd have used 2 4.8 JJs but I've only got one. It'll be back to minion/jj as soon as the race is done.
johnnyboy666 - Memberow much did it cost you all in for the wheels? I paid £480 for them from Ze Germans but have failed to find them in stock ever since.
I think all in, about £380. Plus my time o'course. TBH it wasn't entirely about the saving, as you say stock for the BR2250 was really bad for a long time, and I nabbed the hubs on a whim. But it worked out well.