[with pics] The best adventure, best ride, ever – (GR5 TransAlp) – Page 2 – Bike Forum

ChrisE · 2011-09-09T11:43:40Z

Have just got home from probably the best adventure I’ve ever done. A few people on here asked if I’d put in a report on it so here goes. Having done several Transalp type crossings, last year we never made one since in 2009 I’d bust a few bones in Italy doing a Transalp and last year ended up being a year off, some of it spent being ill. This year was different though and the (too large) group of us started looking at doing a trip from Geneva to Nice. Mainly following the French long distance footpath GR5, which is a classic walk taking about 4-5 weeks. The group dwindled and so eventually there were just three of us. I think if it had been 4 we would have made up two twos. These type of things are much better done in the minimum size groups and two or perhaps three is ideal. Pete, was older than me, a veteran of racing, climbing, paragliding very fit but for some strange reason deciding to live in Cambridge where hill climbing opportunities. Gary, just younger than me, also a racer and climber and veteran of TransAlp and TransRockies racing who was only marginally better situated for hills on Northhampton. And me, 48, mental age 16 never raced but spent most of my life in the hills, caving, paragliding and riding the bike, with not a level piece of ground in sight living in the Yorkshire Dales. As on most of these trips I took it on to do all the organising. I like it that way. I have lost count of the hours spent pouring over maps, searching on the WWW and typing spreadsheets with all the data on. It sounds anal but there is so much hard work on these trips that you need to know exactly what you’re doing, when and why otherwise it will all descend into chaos. Also by knowing exactly what you’re doing, you get the most out of the route. You know what all the mountains are, what you’re looking at, where you need to dig deep and so on. These trips are about being in the mountains and mountain biking. A typical day includes and hour of pushing or carrying. Some people don’t like that but for me being in the mountains and travelling with a bike is always going to necessitate some hard going. We all got flights to Geneva, from different UK airports but arriving about the same time. Of course as we did we saw many UK guys on their way to Morzine and Les Arcs, all dressed in the cool-gear. Of course we had flown in our cycling shorts, tops and shoes and carried only the smallest of rucksacks. Our bikes were taken out of the cardboard boxes, built up in the 40 minutes we had and we were off, at least on, onto the train from Geneva to Aigle, eastern end of the lake and where the offices of the UCI are. What a fitting start point. We knew it would be a rush, hitting flights and trains on time was our only chance abut this only gave us 2 hours to ride the 24km flat round the lake and climb up the 600m and 7k to the first night that we had pre-booked. We went well and snook over the border bridge into France as it was getting dark. Dumped the bikes at the Gite and just got to the village restaurant before they shut. It felt good to be back at it again. Day 1 Up the road and carry the last Km to the Cold de Bise and over to La Chapelle d’Abbondance. From there up to the lifts below Avoriaz and fly down some of the downhill tracks there to Morzine. After finding the info office we found what was a cheap but good hotel for the night (about €70 for the three of us B&B). We pool all the money and keep a tally for everything. Accommodation, drinks, food, lifts etc. It’s far easier that way. Today we had missed out on lunch but we know that to feed in the middle of the day is essential. We’re probably knocking out 3-4 thousand calories a day so food is very important. We wont be missing it again. [IMG[IMGDay 2 From Morzine up the first lift to the Plenay Ridge we wave goodbye to lifts and downhillers for a few days and have a good ride along the ridge. Mainly on double track but I reminisce about the good flying days we had here in the Paragliding Nationals probably 12+ years ago, taking off from Mont Chery and getting trashed above Avoriaz – happy days! At the road we mix with roadies for a few Km and get good views of the Mont Blanc massif before turning on a track at col de Joux Plan. For 1Km we struggle with mud and rough ground before canning it and turning back. We go down the road a couple of bends then turn off down route MTB50. I’d seen this on the web and although the first 40m were bad, after that it was fantastic. Nearly 1000m of great descent across meadows and down ancient roads we dropped into Samoens just in time for lunch in the market square. I knew this place having spent a few weeks here 20 years ago. It had changed little. From there along the valley road to Sixt fer a Cheval in what was blistering heat. We turned up the valley to le Lignon and climbed the 700m to the waterfalls with the rest of the tourists. Where they stopped at the end though, we carried on up the track riding at first then pushi...

MadBillMcMad

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awesome read - I wonder if I could pull this off for my 50th

Posted : 23/09/2011 12:58 pm

ChrisE

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All the info sent to you Andy, let me know if you got it.

Just started planning the 2012 trip, looks a bit longer (yikes!!)

C

Posted : 26/12/2011 10:10 pm

boxelder

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All the info sent to you Andy

Who, me?

Posted : 26/12/2011 10:52 pm

FOG

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Missed this when it was 1st posted but it really brought the memories flooding back. A few years ago we used to tour the Alps on big trail bikes [XRV70s, GSs etc] riding the easier tracks. Every year we used to stay at Marmora which is definitely remote but an excellent place.
I have been getting the old maps out and planning a return by pedal not 85 bhp bike.

Posted : 26/12/2011 10:59 pm

Bustaspoke

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Thanks for the inspiring post,I missed it first time.
I've been to Morzine a couple of times & wondered if people did XC multi-day routes using the refuges.
Fog,I'm planning on doing the Stella Alpina (motorcycle rally outside of Bardonecchia),2nd sunday in July on my trusty XT600 & I'll be exploring the gravel roads / quiet trails

Posted : 27/12/2011 12:04 am

gaberin

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Nice..

Posted : 27/12/2011 12:24 am

bedfordlab

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inspiring for new year!!!!!

Posted : 27/12/2011 7:46 pm

nasher

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Nice write up...there are a few of those high alpine routes I would like to do.. firstly I need to finish planning my trans ligurian tour..

also when you hit Mercantour you can pass over into Italy...there is a an excellent refuge on the ridge and you can basically do a 60km trail that finishes in ventigmilia, just over from Menton..

Posted : 27/12/2011 8:09 pm

freeridenick

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Yes I missed this first time. Great write up and thanks for posting...

Posted : 27/12/2011 8:24 pm

sunnrider

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Same here, missed this one.
Great adventure, it reads really well.

Just out of interest, what bikes and gear did you bring?
I can see a cannondale with a lefty in one pic, you wouldn´t find many spares for that out in the mtns.

Posted : 27/12/2011 9:22 pm

ChrisE

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I had the Scalpel, a bike I've had for years and a veteran of many such trips, Pete had a Blur, again something he's had for years, done the Transalp race on, et etc and Gary had a hardtail titanium thing, like a Litespeed but no (if that helps!). Carrying spares is one thing but riding so you don't break your bike is better! You need to resign yourself to the fact that if you break a wheel (badly), a frame or a fork you need to buy a new one and carry on. Luckily that's not happened yet but past trips have shown you're more likely to break a collar-bone or a leg than a frame. And you can't carry sapers of them!!

C

Posted : 27/12/2011 9:37 pm

ChrisE

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And for those really sad guys, here's my kit list
2no shorts (1 wear, 1 carry) 145+220g
2no cycle shirts (1wear, 1carry) 159+164g
2pr thin socks (1wear, 1carry) 35+45+46g
1pr longs 307g
1 base layer 163g
1 cycle coat 307g
1 helmet
Gloves 75g
Balaclava
2no inner tubes 2x94g
Pump 93g
LED micro light 28g
Micro red light on bike 15g
Puncture patches 6g
Set spare brake pads (2 prs) 2x18g
Pen and notebook 60g
Mobile phone 137g
Shades 19g
Contact lenses 15x4g
Ear plugs, 4pr 4x1g
Razors (6) 43g
Small sun cream 120g
Tooth brush & paste 14 + 12g
Soap 12g
Camelbak 249g
Paraglider line 5g
Passport 35g
Credit cards & cash
BMC card 2g
Activcard insurance card 5g
Energy bars
Isostar powder 195g
Chain oil 81g
Maps 377g
Camera
Micro USB charger for phone 19g+13g
Space blanket
Compass 16g
Contact list
Tube Sudacrem 38g
Bike computer
Clip for map on handlebars
Whistle 10g
Boarding card for return
Bin bags (for packing bike in if argued at airport)
Labels for bike return
Spare spokes (specific Mavic UST) 21g
Spare headtorch batteries 7g
Warm gloves 49g
Spare jockey bearing 7g
Solar charger 70g
Tyre levers 2x12g
Buff 34g
Tissue (toilet) 27g
Winter gloves 51g
Fleeces 240+260g
Disco pants 168g
Contact lens mirror 7g

bike 11050g

Shared equipment
Multitool, 1 between 2 104g
Spare 5mm and 2mm alen keys
8mm Allen extension 8g
Selection cable ties (incl some massive ones) 51g
Michelin map(s) yellow series for overall area 87g
Cassette removal tool 30g
Selection bolts nuts etc 92g
2 spare chainring bolts
Superglue
First aid stuff 1 between 2 incl steristrips, loads steriwipes 137g
Spare spokes 28g
Knife
Sewing kit
Shock pump
Spare gear cable 19g
Spare chain links plus 2 spare Sram connectors
French and Italian phrase books
Roll insulation tape
1m gaffer tape 17g
Spare phone battery 29g

Posted : 27/12/2011 9:39 pm

boxelder

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And for those really sad guys

You can get lighter puncture repair patches you know, and .5m of gaffer tape would save 8.5 gms.

Disco pants?

❓

Posted : 27/12/2011 10:30 pm

ChrisE

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Disco pants - a pair of specially made cotton pants, very light, just for wearing in huts etc (or a disco!)

C

Posted : 27/12/2011 10:38 pm

sunnrider

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Cool, thanks for the info. It must have been a nightmare to decide what goes in the pack and what stays at home.

Since I live so close to the Pyrenees I´d love to do
something similar but from east-west or vice versa.

Posted : 29/12/2011 12:04 pm

jhw

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Also missed this first time - stellar!

Posted : 29/12/2011 12:15 pm

jameso

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Thread revival.. a quick post to thank ChrisE for the original post that spurred me into digging up my GR5 guidebook and making the ride a reality.. and to post some pics from a fantastic ride. 3 of us just had 12 days of amazing riding, a really incredible experience. We used the GR5 Geneva-Nice as a basic direction and followed the trail closely (too closely at first - days 1-3 are tough going) up to / around Briancon and went off-route again either side of the Mercantour, places where we started taking more diversions on interesting looking trails linked by high cols, exploring more and heading for the main legal route through the Mercantour (thanks to ChrisE for the homework there)

We carried all we needed so were able to be quite loose with our route. For me it worked out at about 14-15lbs of kit plus water + food, not too bad, even so it made the climbs hard and the carries even harder but after a few days you acclimatise and adapt anayway. Plus, the best rides aren't ever 100% rideable.. We often took trails that looked good on the map or that we saw branching off our current route - we found some absolute gems doing this, some of the best trails I've ridden and just as good as the best of the GR5, better to ride in places but often less dramatic in setting compared to the Crete Gittes for example. One section of the ride stays in my mind as trail perfection - the setting, terrain, the flow, it was THE dream ride and what I hoped to find along the way. The fluid route-planning made the most out of the bikepacking way of riding, we felt like we found our own way, rode our own trails and lucked out regularly by not getting quite as off-route or lost as we were prepared to be.

It was a tough ride, but at no point was it too much, just long days, steady pacing and a readiness to carry your bike or ride a road col here and there is all you need. I ended up 8lbs lighter but that was down to ultra-lighting too far - we needed to carry and eat a lot more along the way, bivi food is rarely that plentiful and the steak and frites with pepper sauce on arrival at the Med stays in my mind as the most appreciated food I've eaten in years - perhaps ever.

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Lessons + notes from this trip? Eat more next time. You only need duplicate socks, 1 of everything else is ok. You don't smell as bad as you expect after a week. Your bike can't have any weak spots or odd / fiddly to fix parts. Really big tyres rock, as do high-air volume sleeping mats (neoair). Gear your bike lower than you think is sensible. Bells are good to have. Make sure it's comfy to carry for 30mins or more at a time. The Jones really is a fantastic bike-packer as well as a great rigid bike - total bike-love there. Buy maps as you go, they help you find the good stuff or get back on track after following the good stuff a bit too far, plus you'll want to use them for another visit..

Posted : 23/08/2012 12:38 pm

Clink

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Have seen your pics on flickr, but even so WOW! 😀

Posted : 23/08/2012 1:22 pm

DoctorRad

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@jameso - Fantastic stuff. I think I would need to takes some spare clothes as I sweat like a b@stard at the best of times. What was the heat like in the high mountains?

Posted : 23/08/2012 1:50 pm

jameso

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Drrad, thanks. If you avoid civilisation no-one can smell you anyway ) really, it's not that bad, after 3 days it doesn't get any worse. A couple of tops and a pair of shorts can be a kilo and after a few carries you'd be keen to shed that. The salt tide-marks on my top were pretty major by day 10 but a hot day means wearing a wet top rinsed in a stream is refreshing. Heat was no problem, generally comfortable, gets warm south of Briancon. Pretty cold before dawn over 2000m tho and Nice / Med coast was crazy hot, near 40 on sat/sun.

Posted : 23/08/2012 2:16 pm

[Closed] [with pics] The best adventure, best ride, ever - (GR5 TransAlp)