[Closed] Will Stan's Crests hold up?

Yeah they'll be fine, I have a pair on my HT and weigh a bit more than 12st.

I've ridden and occasionally raced 355's and Crest without issue and I'm 14 stone. Home is the Lakes, so not towpath tootling either.

They'll be fine, i think the general consensus is they're not far off being strong as flows when built properly, but lighter with a narrower ID. Not that you'd be using a big tyre in the back of a Fuel EX 8, it wont fit 😆

I'm just over 13 stone and have been using Crests for 6 months.

No problems and I'm a pretty clumsy rider.

They are rated for 180lbs. I didn't go for them for this very reason, but then again I'm 17st and wasn't willing to take the risk. I went for flows and I'm very happy with them. YMMV

Thanks a lot all of you.

Sambob:

Not that you'd be using a big tyre in the back of a Fuel EX 8, it wont fit

Will my Maxxis HR 2.3 fit, seems like you'll know mate! 😉

To throw a differing opinion into the mix - I'm 12st and my Hope wheelset (Crest rims on Pro3 hubs) buckle constantly (front and rear), with even when riding non-technical terrain, and need re-truing. The other week, I found they buckled even after one loop of Cannock where I took extra special care to roll over anything that might be a jump etc.

I'm a bit cheesed off as every single other opinion I've read (see above for example) seems to praise their strength. They've been sent back to Hope and they say the will 'sort them out' though what exactly this will entail I don't know - hope it's not just a retrue as that won't help and I can get that done locally anyway.

I had always thought Crests would be a good weight-saving upgrade over my crossrides, and as per above everyone seems to think they can handle abuse but now I'm not so sure.. Maybe it needs to be flows after all.. Hmm. Ive got till chrimbo to decide I guess..

12 stones! Your a fly weight! Crests will be fine!

I'm 12 stone too.. Mostly Scottish trail centres and natural xc. The odd mince around GT freeride park or Omega man about as gnar as I get on my 575.. Do the collective think they'd handle it?

Im 11.5 and having a set of Crest built up this week. I'd describe my riding as clumsy, rough trails with a few drop-offs thrown in and Crests were suggested by my wheel builder. So I'll let you know 🙂

My Pro3's with 355s (slightly stronger than crests I think) where fine until a dog came at me from the side - taken some XC abuse and I am 12.5 stone.

Can Crests take a 2.5" tyre (like a rubber queen 2.4!)?

Probably a bit narrow for 2.5" tyres.

Given my Crests quite a bit of abuse on my HT and they've been fine, quite surprised. I'm 12st too.

Edit: Alejandro, wonder if that is anything to do with the pro 3 hub? Mine are on pro 2 evo SP and have been fine.

Can Crests take a 2.5" tyre (like a rubber queen 2.4!)?

Hope that helps

They are rated for 180lbs. I didn't go for them for this very reason

That's not true - Notubes do not stipulate a weight limit

[i][b]We are often asked if we have a weight limit but it's more important to consider all of the components in the wheel as well as the intended use.[/i][/b]

Some individual builders may well do to cover themselves though

Thanks guys... look out for a "what rim for 2.5" tyre" thread in just a mo!

[url= http://www.notubes.com/ZTR-Crest-29er-Stock-Wheelset-P452.aspx ]max rider weight here but it's 190lbs forgive me.[/url]

[url= http://www.notubes.com/ZTR-Crest-26-Stock-Wheelset-P450.aspx ]Sauce with that humble pie sir? :)[/url]

those particular wheels may have a limit [as I said] but the rims don't 😉

http://www.notubes.com/ZTR-Rims-C18.aspx

I've got 355's on my Nicolai Helius CC and they've been ridden pretty hard for the past 18 months including the peaks and welsh mountains, straight as the day I bought them and no dents or buckles either.

depends on how you ride, I'd run one on the front but not back. I put a sizeable ding in one on the back of my hardtail (was just about to build one for my FS rear, went with arch instead). Mate has also but a massive ding in his crest pro3 front. Fortunatley mine will still run tubeless with a little faff at inflation time, my mates won't. Probably fine for most people but if you get it wrong or hit a rock in just the right (wrong) way it could cost ya (and if it happens a week after buying it it really smarts 🙁 ). OTOH I have a pro3 355 front and that's been fine.

most dings are caused by not running high enough tyre pressure tho.

most dings are caused by not running high enough tyre pressure tho.

Just saying when they do ding* the result can be quite bad
*inevitable for all rims IME (not tried silly heavy DH rims tho)
I've used 317, 819, 5.1, shimano wheels, a rock strike normally just bends the side wall, you can persuade them back into shape with an adjustable, I've seen 2 crests with bent [b]rims[/b]

Hmmm, I'm with GW here (never thought I'd say that 😉 ) there's not really a direct correlation between strength and susceptibility to denting. I've never dented a rim like I did my XC717s, but I'd say they're stronger than my Podium MMX rims!

Unless you really really wallop a Stan's rim you can bend it back, just like you can any other rim. And if you really really wallop it then you obviously are running too little pressure!

On the OP, you'll be absolutely fine, I find it strange when people say things like "I've even taken mine to some trail centres and they've been fine". They're designed as an all round rim, there are 2 (significantly) lighter options in the NoTubes arsenal, and even my (290g) Podiums have proven perfectly tough. I'd be seriously annoyed if I destroyed any rim through 'normal' riding, be that natural or trail centre! Unless I started doing regular drops of more than 3ft or so they'd be my all round choice!

there's not really a direct correlation between strength and susceptibility to denting.

possibly but do you run pressure thats reasonable for 99% of the riding you do

Unless you really really wallop a Stan's rim you can bend it back, just like you can any other rim

GW, hmmm.

A lot depends on the wheel builder. Two wheels built with the same components are not necessarily equal.

A badly assembled wheel built with Flow rims will be weaker than a well built wheel using Crests.

it's ok Njee, you're not really with me on this. There definitely is a correlation between strength and susceptibility to denting as all rims are not made from the same material, or go through the same manufacturing processes or indeed have the same amount of material to resist denting in the first place.

That's lucky! We've also just ascertained that my Podiums are indeed stronger my XC717s. Result 😉

The only rim I've ever really flat spotted was an Open Pro on the road. I hit a pothole concealed in a deep puddle. I still have every faith in the rims as a very tough all rounder, and they've never needed truing at all, the back one just has a flat spot which you can feel on really smooth roads!

Just avoid hitting any border collies and you'll be fine.

Crests are great rims, I'm 13 stone and had no problems apart from a crappy build from Superstar. I now have Arches but think I preferred the Crests.

A badly assembled wheel built with Flow rims will be weaker than a well built wheel using Crests

a "flat spot" and a "ding" are two entirely different things Njee.
I've flatspotted DH rims with stupidly high pressure (for DH) without puncturing or dinging the rim, it just takes an incredibly harsh hit.

D0NK - Member

a visible flat spot in the rim, thats the rim not a flat spot on the wheel.

I don't understand what you mean here.

I (11 st) ran Crests front & rear & put a significant ding in the rear at Afan within 3 months at 30psi (with tubes). A friend (also 11st) had the same happen to him too. Neither of us are particularly clumsy riders (although I'm sure someone will be along in a minute to tell me that as I dinged the rim I clearly am). Swapped to Arch on the rear in June, with no dings so far.

george - DONK means a "ding" but he's trying to big it up. 😉

I get all my rim dents after a blow out / snake bite when I can't stop / don't notice the flat before the wheel has thumped into some more boulders. Just leave the dents in the rims, don't seem to affect performance.

Interesting thread.

I'm thinking of replacing my DT swiss ex 5.1d rims with something that easier to get the tyre on and off. I dont have any dings in mine, but the rear is a little buckled. I am trying to decide between crests and flows, with the flows being more akin to the dt ex5.1d's that I have now.

The stans website lists the crest as for XC race and light trail use, which kind of implies to me that they'll be no good for what I want, but then theres a bikeradar review which states they've used them for 'all mountain'/fairly heavy riding for 6 months and they're still fine.

My gut feel is that they're going to be too lightweight for my riding style, but theres only one way to find out, and I;m not sure I'm willing to take the chance.

[url= ]ding[/url] sidewall bent
[url= ]flat spot[/url] rim is not round anymore.
apologies low res pic, best I could find.

but he's trying to big it up.

Everyones riding style is different some can finesse down a mental rocky trail on lightweight parts no problems, other tends to have a more ahem simplistic approach ie slam into/over everything, for the latter lightweight stuff may not be great. Crest are borderline lightweight I reckon.

**** knows 😕

I run Alpine's, im 12 stone and absolutly fine. although dinged it when rear tyre went flat. but its still ok and straight.
I seriously 'ragggg' my bike 🙂

Not that you'd be using a big tyre in the back of a Fuel EX 8, it wont fit

Amen to that, clearance is pisspoor on the drive side - I've wasted a load of cash on '2.2 tyres' that don't fit. To be fair they did cone up more like a 2.3 but still. Think the latest models have addressed this slightly?

Crest 29er wheels are currently tolerating my 16 stone of unsubtle style. And that is well over the rider weight limit.

"i think the general consensus is they're not far off being strong as flows when built properly, but lighter with a narrower ID"
"I am trying to decide between crests and flows"
etc

Has nobody come across the arch (And arch EX)?

Stans/ZTR website has some use descriptions and cross sections here:
[url] http://www.notubes.com/ZTR-Rims-C18.aspx [/url]
(if you click on each rim they have some other descrition)
JustRidingAlong also have some descriptions on each rim

Bear in mind the 21mmID 400g Arch EX is on its way to replace the 19mmID 420g Arch which should sit better between the 21mmID 340g Crest and the (perhaps? due a revamp for 2013?*) 22.6ID 470g Flow

I'm waiting on the Arch EX's (currently on Mavic XM719, hoping the little extra width should be spot on for me (width being my only real niggle with the mavics)

My interpretation (on trying to decide which to get) was that:
Crests are fine for wheels on the ground stuff and light jumps and/or light riders
(So long as you're not tw*tting them into everything)

Arch(/Arch EX should) have extra stiffness due to 'braced' cross section, will take some abuse

Flow more stiffness, will take plenty more abuse. Extra internal diameter for really fat tyres (less 'needed' for many perhaps? now Arch EX is going upto same width as Easton Haven for eg)

*Purely guessing going by alpine, crest, arch EX all coming out to replace others

I think more people would take arch builds but as hope hoops aren't available like that most people plump for the crest/flow option and a hefty saving

but as hope hoops aren't available like that

Seems likely, the Arch EX is a great rim on paper!

a "flat spot" and a "ding" are two entirely different things Njee.

Thank you, I'm not totally stupid. My comment about Open Pros was tongue in cheek. You'd have to try pretty hard to actually 'ding' (if that's the accepted terminology) a road rim! I did however put far more 'dings' in my 717s than I have any Stan's rim, it helps that the sidewalls are a fair bit shorter, there's less material to 'ding'.

Get some 819's and be done with it!

Why? They're heavy, narrow, expensive, and hard to build on.

You can keep 'em!

do Stans spec a lower spoke tension for their rims than other makes? perhaps due to lack of eyelets?

Strong (OP's request) light (relatively), reliable and no strip-kit needed to run tubeless. They seem to stay true longer and better than any other rim I've owned. That's why I'll be putting another set on my next bike too!

There you go njee that is why I use and recommend them, you may have other criteria for your choice or wheel rim.

I take issue with "light (relatively)" - they're heavier than Flows by the time you include the rim inserts, whilst being narrower than a Crest. Compared to an anvil or boat anchor they are indeed relatively light, but in the context of XC-biased rims they really aren't.

IMO (non-tubeless) tyres inflate far more easily on Stan's rims than UST too - I think the UST is a bit of a red herring, although I admit you're guaranteed compatibility, and an increasing number of tyres are going to tubeless ready, but I'd have no faith that the 6 of so sets of (non-tubeless) Schwalbes I use would inflate with a track pump on an unmodified UST rim, whilst I know they will go straight up on either set of Stan's rims I have.

YMMV of course - so yes, we obviously have different criteria for rim purchasing!

819 is the strongest rim I've used (like I said not tried proper DH rims) but as njee says weigh a lot and narrow. Its the weight that puts me off getting one again. Got a flow and that so far seems atleast as strong but lighter.