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I reckon my '03 Heckler with '03 Z1s and 5th Coil must be about 32/33lbs.
I bought one of these.
[url] http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/40KG-Digital-Fishing-Luggage-Hanging-Weighing-Scale-UK_W0QQitemZ320326506091QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_SportingGoods_FishingAcces_RL?hash=item320326506091&_trksid=p3911.c0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A1298%7C66%3A2%7C65%3A12%7C39%3A1%7C240%3A1318 [url]
Yeti 575 25.9lbs
Ti 456 23.5lbs
Both are pretty light builds though.
Road bike - 21 lb
Full sus - 30ish lb
Hard tail - suprisingly heavy!about 28 - 29 lb
Interesting thread as yesterday I borrowed the balance from my LBS to weigh my own bikes;-
Cotic Soul - 29.6 lbs
Kona Dawg - 33.6 lbs (and nearly all the components are the same as the Cotic !?)
SX Trail - 39.5 lbs
I was a bit surprised at the first two as I was expecting them to be lighter.
I don't think I've ever weighed my bikes.
my Rocky Mountain ETSX is about 27lbs in 'race mode' with lighter tyres / olympic rims on proIIs. in all day / training mode its about 29lbs. really notice the difference with the lighter wheels / tyres on it. Could probably go a bit lighter if I swapped the coil revelations for something else and found a different saddle that agrees with my arse (currently on an SDG bel air) but its deminishing returns for here on in and in its current guise its pretty bomb proof. Keep thinking of an anthem X but can't justify spending £850 on a new frame when I've got a hand made canadian one which does everything
Not sure how much my soul weighs, probably around 27-28lbs but its not built up with anything s****y
I imagine your ability to ride all day is more dependant on the area, weather and fitness than how much your bike weighs. I gave up worrying when I bought a 456, I soon got used to the burlier build and was able to continue doing the same all day routes with no issue. Unless you get silly and try riding a downhill bike then it won't make that much difference.
but I wouldn't want to be doing it on a 19lb bike. I expect most of the people on lighter bikes gave it a wide berth...
Pretty sure my 21.5lb one would be up to it - I reckon I've ridden worse (the limitation is the rider not the bike).
Maverick ML7 weighs just over 26lb
Genesis Altitude 853 Hardtail just under 26lb
Both could be lighter, mainly the wheel department, but I don't like flexy light wheels (I run Mavic 819 UST rims, VERY stiff rim).
DH bike was about 37lb, but it's been dismantled now as I rarely used it.
Dialled Alpine with Fox 36's, 721's on bulbs, single ply high rollers and 9 speeds?
Probably around 33lbs? The rest of the kit is pretty average to lightish stuff
Fly Pantera bmx is somewhere around 26lbs i would say
Cotic Soul, bang on 26lbs, I'm happy with that.
2004 Turner 5-Spot 29.2 lbs
2004 Giant TCR Zero(with guards and lights) 20 lbs
1998/99 Ritchey Swisscross 21.86 lbs
De-Kerf Team SL 23.66 lbs
Thanx Max
Finding it quite intresting how heavy hardtails are coming out at....not race bikes but still more than I thought
Cannondale Carbon Rush 4
27.75 lbs
After I have reached my target with my weight loss, I will start on the bike
Trek 8000ZR hardtail 2006.
In winter running mode with mud tyres, lights and mudguards : 27 lbs dead.
Marv
My ML7 is a genuine 23.5lb built up with pedals and a DUC32. I don't really know the weight of owt else I own. My ti hardtail is, I think, about 35.6lb and my Voodoo Wanga singlespeed about 19lb or so, just from lifting them up and also extrapolating with the kitchen scales. At any rate, heavier bikes are always going to climb better because the extra weight results in superior traction. I've found climbing on very light bikes a real issue because of this factor and often out-climb myself on a lighter bike using a heavier one. It seems counter-intuitive at first, but if you think about the physics of traction and climbing, it does make sense.
At any rate, heavier bikes are always going to climb better because the extra weight results in superior traction.
Well that's certainly an individual point of view 😐
I would have thought the biggest impact on traction would be rider weight and distrubution, tyre design and pressure, frame geometry, fork setup etc - I wouldn't think that adding weight to a bike - all other things being equal - would make it go faster up hills.
Perhaps some experimentation is in order.
Marv
Heckler 31lb with coil lyriks and dhx coil here. DT wheels, xtr/x0, carbon and ti bits. I don't think i could get it much lighter without compromising it.
I would have thought the biggest impact on traction would be rider weight and distrubution, tyre design and pressure, frame geometry, fork setup etc - I wouldn't think that adding weight to a bike - all other things being equal - would make it go faster up hills.Perhaps some experimentation is in order.
If you'd bothered to read my post properly, you'd see that I have indeed experimented and in my experience, the heavier bike is generally faster for the reasons I explained. Obviously that's within certain parameters and I'm not saying that a bike weighing, say, 50lb will be faster than one that weighs half that, but in my experiments, a bike weighing 30lb was significantly better at climbing than one weighing 14lb. The lighter bike simply refused to hold traction and was bouncing all over the trail whereas the heavier one, despite using suspension front and rear, was able to dig in and climb.
I know it sounds illogical, but I saw it with my own eyes.
Demo 7: 37lbs
Blur LT: 24lbs
Road Bike: i don't know maybe 14lbs
In descending order (includes dark side content)!
Dekerf Elysium Ti with XTR, Marta SLs and Durins (19.5"): 22.5 lbs
Pinnacle CX Team cross bike SRAM Rival 09 (L): 19.1 lbs
Felt TK2 track bike: 16 lbs
new Cervelo R3sl road bike with SRAM Red (58cm): 14.6 lbs!!!
Aye, there's something to be said for bringing the ale gut out with you on the climbs - it really does give traction on steep and loose ascents. I've trundled past many a weenie man walking his bike on a particularly steep climb in the Pentlands.
My bike weights more with me sat on it!
😉
Prophet - over 35lbs.
Scott FS - 33lbs.
456 SE - 27-33lbs (wheels, tyres, bits).
Kona A - 8.6kg (whatever that is in pounds).
All weighed on a Topeak Prepstand elite wth calibrated weighing scales.
Ibis Mojo, 26.8 lbs
On-One Ti456 24.3 lbs
Kona A 23.5 lbs
Klein Attitude 22.9 lbs
Airborne Lucky Strike 17.2 lbs (without pedals)
When I had them
Orange P7one 29.8 lbs
Santa Cruz Chameleon 25.2 lbs
Cotic Soda, 23.9 lbs
Cove Hummer 24.8 lbs
Rocky Mountain ETSX 27.8 lbs
Man good to finally see some honest and realistic weights.I laugh when these 20pd bikes turn up.We all take it with a pinch of salt.Getting a fully under 24 pd and a hardtail under 22 only occurs is in the land of dreams and if it did occur how long do u think the bike would last.Its hard enough getting a singlespeed ultra light and they have the benefit of no gears.Granted taking a couple of pounds off any bike certainly does make going up a lot easier.
Lapierre Spicy 916 - 32lbs - albeit a few spec changes to the original bike 😉
My full Suss in winter Kit Yeti ASR weighs 24.5lbs - come race time it will be around 22lbs
thansk Badlywireddog for confirming my own belief re heavier bikes and climbing.....i for one agree.
reign, 35.5lbs, stiffee, 31lbs.
Kona 'The King' with a few new bits weighs just over 26lb
is near enough local riding for me (i'm edinburgh)
ride it all the time, used to be on my 21lb race ht (carbon scott scale, full xtr/reba world cups/stans olympic wheelset)
now on a (carbon) scott spark (kit as other bike) 1.1 lb heavier than that...
don't really see a problem with it, i also put both bikes down the dh tracks at inners...
its rider, not bike!
and the important weights,
are full sus race bike 22lb.
road bike 15lb
and coastings, its nothing like the land of dreams,
i know plenty of friends with race ht's under 21lb...
Badlywireddog, you SURE your Mav is 23.5lb with a DUC on it? Mine is just over 26lb with a DUC, and a pretty light build. OK, I could lose 1lb off the wheels and tyres, maybe a tiny bit off the pedals and the saddle, and XTR cranks a bit over XT, but 23.5lb for an ML7 with a DUC sounds VERY light if you ask me!
LOL trying to decide now if to spend £150 on a lighter drive train or lose the 6lb I put on over Christmas.
All relative some times.
I laugh when these 20pd bikes turn up.We all take it with a pinch of salt.Getting a fully under 24 pd and a hardtail under 22 only occurs is in the land of dreams and if it did occur how long do u think the bike would last.Its hard enough getting a singlespeed ultra light and they have the benefit of no gears.
Laughing at your own ignorance? My 21.5lb susser is a very genuine weight on an accurate digital scale. Plenty out there lighter than that too - though mine is a robust build designed to cope with real riding unlike some of those - maybe not for going off big drops or taking lots of air, but then that's not the sort of riding I do (judging from recent threads on here, neither is it what lot of serious riders do). Your ignorance is summed up by your comments about getting singlespeeds ultralight, when there's not actually a huge amount of weight in a geared drivetrain compared to the weight of lots of other bits on the bike.
The lighter bike simply refused to hold traction and was bouncing all over the trail whereas the heavier one, despite using suspension front and rear, was able to dig in and climb.
You don't think that maybe it's the suspension which is actually helping the heavier bike? I certainly don't use the lockouts on mine when climbing off-road.
Yeti575 - Pace RC41's, Mavic 819's on Pro 2's X9 with XT cranks - 26lb
456 - Black forks and general parts bin spec - 30lb
Both only weighed on bathroom scales so weights are approximate. 575 always feels shockingly light when I ride it after riding the 456 for a while, but some of the sprightlyness is probably down to the lighter wheels and lighter tyres (standard Nobby Nics run tubeless with latex).
Epiphany, all XT, Pike, Crossmax STs tubeless, flats, 29.5lbs
R3SL, DA, Reynolds UL46, 14.5lbs
Rat bike, GOK
(judging from recent threads on here, neither is it what lot of serious riders do) from aracer.......
Taking air or doing jumps isn't for serious riders???? What? Thats a bizarre comment to make. I'm deadly serious about my riding and i love jumps/Air time!Don't dimiss something just because you may not be good at it or don't like it.
I did the Kona Mash-up and there were a HUGE variety of bikes being used, The Enduro race was won by a 4" bike but Rowan Sorrell came 9th approx. on his Orange 5 (and won the Technical on the same bike)
My Orange 5 weighs in around 30lbs. It tackles every thing i put in front of it. When bikes start getting towards either end of the weight scale they ultimately will become comprimised one way or the other, although rider skill helps.
ON the subject of heavier bikes being better for climbing; I can confirm that my Ti hardtail hardly ever loses traction on steep, loose ground when it's fitted with panniers and carrying my camping gear. It just digs in deep and my legs will give out first 🙂
Oh and Daffy - I'm still stunned at the weight of your Lucky Strike. If you ever strip it down to the frame, could you weigh that separately? It's not that I don't believe you, I just want to compare it to my Lancaster copy (1,629g).
my Orange subzero clocks in at about 31lbs as its built up with 'zocchi 66's and Mavic 823'a, if I were to swap them over for something lighter it would come in waaaay lighter, but then thats not what I want, I find that about 31-32lbs is about spot on, it feels planted when heading downwards, over stuff and under braking and its not too much of a ball ache on the ups. I also know that its not going to send me rockwards in a puff of cancer causing nanotubes and snake oil! 😀
Personally I'm of the view that (your) mountain bike build is all down to personal preference rather than conforming to an ideal that had been cooked up during a few over enthusiastic (and no doubt elitist) circle jerking sessions? 😀
but then I also think racing is silly. yes I'm an idiot.



