[Closed] WHAT CCBD SETTINGS, orange 5

You know the 2011 five has a tapered headtube

bazza17 - Member
You know the 2011 five has a tapered headtube

so?

sounds like a right faff!!

Heckler - fox van r - 6 cliccks of rebound and ride

not very helpfull so far 🙁

18 clicks? I dont think that my Float 32 RLC has that many clicks in total!

erm, yes the 2011 has a tapered.

nothing helpfull so far.

thanx ?

bigtinn his is a rear shock not a fork tho

bump

I've been thinking about a 2011 5 with ccdb so can't help but interested to see if anyone can!

If I go for this I'd be tempted to stick the new tapered Bos Devilles on it too, as an all day rideable mini DH bike setup for Peak etc. What do you reckon?

Oreetman,

These are the recommended settings for the ccdb on the five from cane creeks five test rider sent through from Malcolm at cc.

Turn Adjusters clockwise

HSR - 1.0-1.5 turns in from all out
LSR – 8-12 clicks from all out
HSC – 1.5-2.0 turns in from all out
LSC – 10-15 clicks in from all out

Also get your sag sorted out, this also from malcolm at cc-

We like a 30-35% sag range. This would be measured with your riding gear on. Take the bottom out
bumper pry it out of the lower spring retainer and move it up the piston shaft, till it touches the shock
body. Now take all pre load out of the spring, then turn the pre load spring collar clockwise till it touches
the spring. Once it touches the spring give it another ¼ turn clockwise.

Get on the bike I like to rest the handlebars against a wall to balance myself and get in a riding position.
Get off the bike and look how far the bottom out bumper has moved down the piston shaft. On your
shock length you are looking for 15mm to 18mm of gap between the top of the bottom out bumper and
the shock body. This will be a 30-35% sag range. For less sag add a turn of pre load a 360 degree turn.
6 turns would be max.

get that all sorted and your laughing! I'm still playing about with it, the more you do the more you feel how little adjustments make.

cruzheckler - Member

big[b]b[/b]inn his is a rear shock not a fork tho

similar settings to what I was given by malcolm for my CCDB equipped alpine. So far I am playing with increasing the LSC to prevent it blowing thru its travel on rolling bumps.

Run 2-3 turns preload on the spring in either travel mode. You'll want about 30-33% sag (measured at the shock).

Open all adjusters counter clockwise. Be careful with the low speed adjusters they have small clicks, when you get near the end of the adjustment range and you feel resistance stop.

Now Turn Adjusters clockwise

HSR- 1.5-2.0 turns in from all out
LSR - 10-12 clicks from all out
HSC – 1-1.5 turns in from all out
LSC – 10-15 clicks in from all out

thanx obi/chaps,

busy weekend of fettling ahead 😀

anybody explain to me in laymans which screw helps reduce pedal bob ?

and also how far can i wind the spring adjuster nut out without damaging the shock,,,,,, in laymans terms again 😳 im no shock expert.

Oreetman,

Think you should read the manual provided with the shock or you can download it from the cc website. Its imperative that you understand how the shock works to get the most of it and understand how it feels as you adjust the settings.

Also CC have some instruction vids on youtube to help with setting up the double barrel and help you understand it.

Think the max number turns of the preload nut is 6 any more to get the 30-35% sag then you will need a stiffer spring. To sort out pedal bob you need to adjust both low speed rebound and compression.

Hope that helps.

Heckler - fox van r - 6 cliccks of rebound and ride

Nowhere near as well as it would with a CCDB.

Nowhere near as well as it would with a CCDB.

Amen to that.

anybody explain to me in laymans which screw helps reduce pedal bob ?

+1 for the comment about reading the manual, but the simple answer is that it is the low speed compression and rebound damping that does this. If you're compressing on the power stroke then you add more LSC and if you're bouncing on the 'upstroke' then more LSR.

Using too much LSR damping causes the shock to pack down however so use it sparingly. If you have only a little LSR damping dialled in, then the bike is more likely to want to 'pop' off things; you can use this to help get the bike airborn if you want, i.e. the bike will feel more willing to junp.

nice-1 for the input chaps, still playing with mine, although have nearly got it reet for my locals/frame. the instructions i got in the box are ok but im no sus' expert and im im thinking the recommended settings are generic (sp ?) and not really specific to each frame/local terrain and of course what i think is the best setting for ME.
think ive nearly got it reet, the pedal bob is wound down to about as much as i have experianced with my rp23 but the climbing traction is dialled in and its unreal how much better it is even with the extra weight of a 'heavier' shock 8)

not there yet but,,,, B-JEZUS im glad i sold all that shoite on ebay 😀 😀 to fund this mutha.