I've got SRAM Rival 1x11, and I have two sets of wheels with the same cassette on (11-42). I've just ordered a 12 speed upgrade kit from Ratio, and for my road wheels I'm going to get a 10-44 cassette. If I were to get a slightly different 11-44 cassette for my gravel wheels would I notice any issues with chain length? I'm assuming this would be OK since the cassettes are very similar.
10-44 would be fine for both, but I'd need 2 new freehubs in that case and since I don't really miss the top end when I have my 650b gravel wheels on I'm just wondering about saving myself a bit of cash on the second freehub. But I don't want to set myself up for any niggly little problems either.
Should make no odds, you size the chain by the biggest size sprocket, 44T.
Ta, that's what I thought but worth checking.
Hmm you may have issues. I changed my chainring from a 32t to a 30t on the MTB recently. Had to remove a link after as the chain was properly slack in the smallest cog on the rear cassette afterwards.
Obviously this is a variation in chainring, not cassette but it's by 2 teeth. Hopefully you can get a chain length that works with the 44t and 42t rear cassette.
What you’re proposing shouldn’t cause an issue OP, the matching 44t at the other end is really what dictates chain length.
I have 2 wheelsets for a 2x. Setup bike one 11-32 the other 11-36, I do have to tweak the B-tension when swapping wheelsets, I’d imagine an 10-44 and 11-46/11-48 combo could work similarly… on 1x…
Your key issue is the capacity of the rear mech.
Quick Google suggests Rival 11 speed in long cage is 34 teeth.
10-44 is a 34 tooth difference so I think it should work, although right on the limit.
I'd set chain length and b-screw for the 10-44 and then I'd expect the 11-44 to work.
It's not just the chain length at the big end but the ability to take up slack at the small.
What you will need to bear in mind is that the closer you get to the mech's capacity the more precise you must be with the chain length because you're running right on the limits of the ability to take up slack (at the top end) and to stretch forward (at the bottom end).
I think mech capacity is OK. But this is an interesting point
What you will need to bear in mind is that the closer you get to the mech's capacity the more precise you must be with the chain length because you're running right on the limits of the ability to take up slack (at the top end) and to stretch forward (at the bottom end).
Like I said I'm all for saving a bit of cash but not if it comes with annoying little issues.
Like I said I'm all for saving a bit of cash but not if it comes with annoying little issues.
I think so long as you're careful in the setup it should be just a few extra minutes and smidge of care on measuring and testing. It's a rigid bike so no chain growth issues and only one tooth difference as you'd need to be careful at 33t anyway.
I've had a think about how frequently I have actually been swapping wheels lately and it's not that much. So I'm going to go with two new freehubs and one 10-44t cassette, which I'll swap between wheels. If/when that becomes too much of a PITA I'll get a second identical cassette.
I was going to suggest swapping the cassette between wheels 🙂
Is the hub design one of those where you can simply lift the cassette and freehub off the hub easily? If so you might be able to lift and shift the whole cassette and freehub between wheels very quickly as long as you are careful not to let the pawls drop off. You could keep the second freehub to hand in case you do lose bits on the floor one day.
I've got a pair of 11 speed wheelsets, one is 11-34, one is 11-42. I do have to adjust the b-screw but other than that I have not had any problems.
I've had a think about how frequently I have actually been swapping wheels lately and it's not that much. So I'm going to go with two new freehubs and one 10-44t cassette, which I'll swap between wheels. If/when that becomes too much of a PITA I'll get a second identical cassette.
How easy is it to pull the FH body off/push it back on, Might make better sense to swap the whole Cassette and FH body each time rather than piss about swapping the cassette each time? (assuming identical hubs).
11-28 and 11-32 for my gravel bike. On a shortcage sram red etap RD. four teeth is not an issue. Hubs are the same so no adjustments needed when swapping
If you have different makes of hubs, you can get a pack of slightly different spacer widths. I use a selection on the three bikes that have spares. Eg one wheel needs a 2.5mm spacer, the other 2.2mm. Means I don't have to adjust the indexing.
Thanks all. They're both Mavic wheelsets. The new freehubs are XD-R which I think hold the cassette in a slightly different way to a standard lockring. I guess it'll be a bit of trial and error to see if it's easier to swap the cassette or the freehub bodies.
