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Hi all, yes I've run mine in both configurations now - 135mm with a 140mm Fox 34, and at 150mm with a 150 and then 160mm Fox 36.
Its not a 5 minute job to change, you need to remove your BB cups. However, the partscare very nicely made and it goes together very well.
I've ridden the Spark in both its normal and `Super Trail' guises - if you want to rsce, a proper Spark is the bees knees. However if you think you want a Spark ST - dont, get a Linkin 135 instead. The geo is far more prpgressive, its much lower, faster and more stable.
When I did change the build a bit I started with my 36 at 150mm then quickly changed it to 160 as theres basically no reason not to.
For the OP I think a Linkin at 135mm is perfect, its incredibly capable (would do a weekend riding with all my mates on Enduro bike) but still feels light and lively, especially in traction mode. You can build light enough to do some Marathon events (I did!) etc if you want to. Using a 34 over 36, Pike over a Lyrik etc.
Never had any isues with it being overly stiff. It works best when the suspension is set very plush in its default open mode, it still resists bottom out well and this then lends itself to using the traction mode a lot - I quickly got used to it and found I'm changing modes every few seconds (akin to when we all thought droppers were a gimmick but its now 2nd nature).
@snotrag thanks, appreciate that.
Travelling west Midlands to Northumberland today, returning Sat/Monday, so I could call Hartlepool and other places in my return. Am in the sticks so tend to make the most of such journeys!
Good write up Snotrag, Have you settled at 150mm at the rear for now?, whereabouts are you riding by the way I seem to recall your not far from me.
Just figuring out where the line is these days, think the max full suss I had to date on a 29er was 120mm so 135mm should be good and wondering if 150mm is overkill or actually worthwhile in conjunction with the lockout traction mode.
I was wondering whether to ditch the remote lockout if it pedals so well but sounds like the added versatility it can provide with the right sag setup maybe worth exploring.
Incidentally, as tidy as it is, the lowest lever of the three does just unbolt for removal (without any dramatic exploding) leaving just two levers if a simpler setup is required or while exploring other dropper controls.
The lowest lever is the dropper, so you don't want to be taking that off 😉
@snotrag WetRocknRide are closed the next few days it seems. I'm in the north east over the weekend and probably return home via 3 Scott shops - J's at Wakefield, Onyerbike in Burnley and RunNride in Stafford.
I'm thinking Linkin frameset or a 150 or an LT, or alternatively a Genius ST 900 Tuned given some of the current discounts. If a frameset then maybe build with a 140mm fork and decide later on whether to go longer travel. Definitely want to check on M or S being bang in the middle, 5'7" (170cm) with longish legs, 31" inside leg. The generous standover of the Linkin makes M most likely for that one I think.
Back home towards the Welsh border it's more of an effort to view a range of bikes.
Thanks all for sharing experience and advice.
Hi again,
On my travels over new year I managed some Bold/Genius/Spark discussions/viewing. First I called at J's at Ferrybridge, not realising that's just their workshop but I had a useful chat with the mechanic. Most of their staff were off for new year when I called. Next up was Run and Ride at Stafford who were great - they have Linkin framesets on display (only) and Spark/Genius to browse. Good advice from several shop guys over coffee. WetRocknRide were closed but phoned me back with great advice, keener on Scott than Bold due to Bold being paused right now. Finally, my very local small shop (Blazing Bikes) who sell Scott but have none on display and they're keener on their Trek range I think.
I'm still keen on a Linkin and here are my current thoughts. With the Fox 36 I understand you can change the travel up/down with a relatively simple swap of air cartridge, and I'd like to ride all my local stuff with it as a 135. The link is available from Bold at around £40 I'm told, so I could go 150 later (this summer) and use an air cartridge to take the fork to 150/160. With that in mind there are deals on the 135 in white, or by spending more there's the 150 Ultimate in black. Actually, with the top spec and claimed weight of 13.0kg the latter looks attractive; for the price of the link and an air cartridge it could also be run as a properly light short travel trail demon.....
I'm not sure the "paused" concern is any more relevant to bold than it is to Scott.
Yes Scott will launch the new gambler and the spark gravel for 2025 but Scott see holdovers on the Spark (design and some colors) and Genius and Ransom colors for 2025 - you could call that paused I suppose. Bold don't have the depth in product lines to worry about when it comes to needing to update an end of cycle product. The Unplugged was revised in 2023, the Linkin revised in 2022. They used to have a proper lighter short travel trail bike as a 3rd in their range, perhaps that's what's being held to 2026.. although the Spark covers this segment in spades.
Presumably, with the shift to reduced manufacturing overheads via Scotts network and no longer being low volume boutique, bold have overstock and are looking to sell through before committing to new production?
Even if Bold discontinued entirely, law would stipulate that Scott maintain warranty/repair inventory, unlike brands like Nukeproof, GG etc who are no longer an entity. Buying one wouldn't concern me.
Interesting on the link pricing, I'd be interested at that price if 135mm turns out to not be enough travel (tho I suspect not for the UK and my riding style). Might be a nice spare anyway if I ever get back to the alps maybe for a holiday.
I did contact Scott about a link but the guy I spoke to was unable to find it on their system. Is there a special tool required too by the way?
Still need to ride mine but have decided to give a Selva a go and up the ante on the brakes from Cura 2 to Cura 4 already so it's already headed in that direction.
The Selva is dual air so easy enough to adjust travel on the fly and experiment with. It's the lenger 170mm version but I've set it at 155mm ish at the mo. The axle to crown is around 10mm or so less than the fox 36 that was on there so geometry is about the same still.
Thanks @Bearback
Although the stocks are patchy there's one shop here (J's) listing an LT in my size, although it was 'hiding' in their warehouse when I asked. That has a Lyric Ultimate at 160mm on the front and also Rockshox (150/100) at the rear. With one of those I'd explore varied terrain as standard (Welsh trail centres+), with the later option of a 140 air cartridge in the Lyric along with swapping the link at the back. Not sure how the Lyric Ultimate (would compare to Fox 36 Perf Elite.
Part of the quandy is that so far my experience is mainly xc on a Fox 32 fit4 with a 68deg head angle, plus marathon/xc on much earlier tech. Would love to add several MTBs to the garage but I also have triathlon/road/gravel demands on my time and space!
I missed the updates and questions on here...
Reading back, the 135mm version is a very capable bike - see my photos in the first page, thats at 135mm with a 140mm Fox 34, pretty light for a trail bike, and very capable - I did endurance XC races AND sporty Enduro events on this.
It very much depends on your build though. Once you've fitted a Fox 36 and some tougher wheels and tyres, its pretty pointless not running the bike at 160/150 - the actual travel costs you nothing in weight and the effect on climbing is minimal. Tracloc is a big part of this.
As for the travel change - bear in mind you will need to Link, AND the tool - there is no way round this.
It is not difficult but it is also not a quick change - remember you will also need to remvoe your chainset, and then a suitable bottom bracket punch and press tool for the pressfit BB which needs removing and refitting to change the link.
Its a job for the workshop and completing alongside a thorough service, checking your shock seals etc - not a trailside change or something you'll go back and forth with depending on where your riding tomorrow.
Thanks Snotrag, all good points there. I'm coming from an occasionally ridden Vendetta X3 and an Evil Following FS before that which didn't get a whole lot of use and it feels like things gave maybe moved a touch in the FS works of bikes a bit.
I'm not sure my build would change as it's fairly solid otherwise so your right if I did change to 150 I'd probably just leave it there then (no real impact to weight). I could let the Selva out to 160mm (or maybe 170 and still maintain the same Geometry as an LT haha). The trackloc might get a look in there too then and become a bit more of a used feature.
From the reviews to date some seem to think it's superfluous but then again maybe if the option to setup a bit softer comes into play it could be very useful and bring that extra dimension/flexibility.
@snotrag thanks, the 135 does look like a real sweet spot. It comes with a 36 Grip2 at 140mm, and will be carrying 200-300g more than the equivalent 34, ie less significant a difference than a tyre change or carrying the tools in your backpack for example.
Appreciate your comments on the link swap. It's something I'd envisaged to do once, if at all, but nice to have as an option. As mentioned earlier if the 135 is actually 140 rear travel then perhaps there's a case for putting a 150 air cartridge in the 36 and leaving the link alone.
I'm back in Yorkshire in 4 weeks and keen on J's cycles having talked to them and having read your comments on them earlier.
@snotrag I just realised you had a Five Evo before the Bold. That's a bike I'd considered too, having played briefly on a pal's one, and there are a couple more enthusiasts locally. Would you care to compare the Bold to the Orange? Big step, huge difference? Why the change, after not very long..?
Hi mate - it was a Stage Evo, but close enough. I've sent you a PM to save all the waffle here!
If someone could please buy this, I can stop working out how I'll explain it to my other half
Thanks
https://www.wetrocknride.co.uk/products/bold-linkin-150-ultimate-bike
If someone could please buy this, I can stop working out how I’ll explain it to my other half
Haha, it's everything I dislike about modern MTBs but somehow I still quite like it.
Too big for me though, sadly (and I've just got a new Orange way cheaper).
Great to read through this post and all the contributions, thank you - there's not much out there to read or see about the Linkin in the UK. (That I've found!)
I've had mine about 2 months now - the result of a new job and the Cycle to Work scheme: I'd never heard of Bold Cycles, but the CTW scheme offered such a huge range of bikes there seemed only one logical way to narrow the field - I set a limit for budget, and then searched by biggest % discount to see what the good deals were. 59% off a '22 Linkin 135 Pro and then the CTW deal made it a pretty good option.
Big change from the my last bike - I've been riding an On One Inbred 29er since the end of 2010, steel frame and rigid carbon forks. Those materials, plus some fat Schwalbe Hans Dampfs were all the spring I had!
So all change for this bike - front and back suspension, and all the pumps / rebounds / settings and lockout that comes with, a dropper seat post, carbon frame, integrated tools, internal cables, tubeless tyres... Yep, a lot of change. I've got the XL frame, pretty good fit though I ride with the seatpost about 25mm higher than the marked limit. Still a bit low, but pretty close to what I need. In comparison to the On One, the chainstays and reach to the handlebars is exactly the same, though the head of the bike is about 100mm higher than the On One. The bottom bracket is a little higher too. The seat tube is a little more upright, and the headtube angle a whole load slacker, meaning the wheelbase is about 200mm longer than the 21" On One.
At slow speeds I still find the Bold really twitchy - possible the very short stem, or just getting used to it. At speed, well, I've been giggling out loud at times - the sheer speed with which this thing deals with the local rooty and bumpy trails is amazing. I did okay up to a point on the old bike, but too much speed on longer rooty/bumpy sections and sooner or later my timing would go and I'd find myself getting bucked off balance. The Bold soaks up a lot of this. I ride in the South Downs, so mainly fairly natural singletrack, and a few purpose built trails. It's dirt and roots, clay chalk and flint. In all honesty, the Bold does neutralise some of the previously technical stuff - it's almost too much bike for the trails, and certainly more capability in a bike than I need or will really make use of. I am seriously excited for the drier days of summer though, when I'll be able to really push some of those trails.
I'm not feeling the love for the current tyres at the moment - not much is great on slimy clay over chalk, and I possibly haven't got the pressures right yet, so maybe they'll come good. Equally, I have never changed or fitted tubeless tyres, so that is something to avoid or get into asap.
I certainly wouldn't have spent the best part of £6k on a bike, but at less than £1400 spread over a year, it seemed a no-brainer. It might not be the perfect style of bike for me, but it's like swapping a 15 year old Ford Focus for a top of the range Porsche Cayenne... that's a choice you can make without too much fear of being disappointed. Plus, it's a stunning bike to see - I love the simplicity and cleanliness of the lines - something I've always valued in design. Plus, it's kind of nice riding something different - I wouldn't say it's better than another bike, but like the On One, it's the one I wanted, and I love riding it. I smile every time!
seatpost about 25mm higher than the marked limit
if you mean you can see the insertion limit engraving on the seatpost and theres still another 25mm before the collar, then I'd address that PDQ. No ones warrantying a frame that's had the seatpost levered through the back of the seat tube.
Yes, I've seen it happen, no it wasn't mine.
Best I can find is that the 200m Duncan post looks to be 538mm long, a 240mm Oneup is 610mm. There'll be +/- due to stack etc, but I'd honestly address that insertion sooner than later
Thanks BearBack, you're absolutely right - it's bad practice, and I've been on the lookout for a swap. Thanks for the suggestions.
Jess.
Finally got out for a first ride on mine yesterday, chilly but fairly dry tails local to me at Rivington Pike area (Lancs).
Took me a while to get it dialled in and shock pressures about right. Still not quite there, partly as it was a bit chilly to be faffing too much and in part as I was making do with a slightly too large sag marker magnet. (Mine seemed to be missing upon delivery of the bike and the make shift one I was using was a tad big to fit in the indicator pocket so to speak. Anyone have the actual diameter and thickness of the sag magnet they could share?).
I started with the shock wayyyy to soft but then got to around 160psi I think for my circa 85kg weight kitted up. The trackloc didn't make a dramatic difference so suspect I've a little more experimenting to do yet. Also scope to run my forks a bit softer too as didn't hit full travel there either. What pressure is everyone else running out of interest?.
Theres work to do yet but there's hints of great stuff in there I think. The geometry was great on the DH sections and fast rooty trails too. There was some signs of zippiness in the dry too but think I'd gotten a bit cold and tired to really drive on by the end when I'd got to the twisty man made trails at the Nab by dusk. (fitness is a bit low and was out on the roadies yesterday too). I've got some new Schwalbe radials to try as well once I get it dialled so plenty to come yet I think.
My magnets were in the bag with all the bits and pieces in the cardboard box. Reflectors, spare ferrules, manuals etc. the magnets (x3) were in there but took a bit of finding as they had stuck themselves to other parts.
I have lost 2 already.
I'm running over 180psi I believe and will lrobably go firmer still. -10c, snow and a chest infection stopped my decent January run of rides.
Haha yes I can imagine them going walkies quite easily.
I was thinking of ordering some more from Amazon (4*1mm maybe) but I'll have another check in the box they came in, good shout. I'd borrowed some 6mm magnets from a noticeboard in the house, which is definitely a tad too big.
Ok 180 psi, I'm in the ballpark then. Presumably your a similarly svelte weight (ahem ignoring post Xmas excesses of course).
About 80kg I think.
Make sure to set sag in fully open mode as that's the one that matters.
Righteo, I'll try and get magnets sorted and give it another go I think. A bit more pressure required I think for starters...now I can feel me fingers again😂
Forks to setup too so it's taking a wee bit of head scratching haha, that's even before I get the new tyres involved. Gulp.
Just as an fyi, managed to source some 4*1mm magnets off eBay that seem to do the job ok. (In case anyone loses theirs).
Looks like 180-185psi should be on the money too for my 80kg ish kitted up.
Now to actually find time to ride again. 😂
Bit of a thread resurrection but was wondering how you are all getting on with your Linkin's, have you had any reliability problems?
Any issues with the rear swingarm, possibly with "stickers" appearing on the bottom pivot of the rear triangle, the side facing/hidden against the linkage?
Mine had been faultless. Coped with a week in Morzine as well as plenty of long xc trips.
What do you mean by stickers?
Any issues with the rear swingarm, possibly with "stickers" appearing on the bottom pivot of the rear triangle, the side facing/hidden against the linkage?
If you think your frame is cracked, communicate with your dealer. Others don't also have to have failures to justify a potential claim.
Your lbs should be referencing a tolerance chart when submitting a claim.
I've had issues where the lower linkage will loosen off in riding which requires the BB to get taken out to tighten it back up.
If it were to keep backing off I can see this stressing those bearings as they would technically get pushed apart relative to the rear triangle...but you'd also feel the knocking well before there's enough deflection to make those two bearing housings fail...I'd think.
Oh interesting, thanks. I'll have a bit of a inspection. To be fair I'm not the most energetic of riders these days, so mine is probably having quite an easy life. Other than the odd Pleney Black!
BearBack, thanks for the info about the tolerance chart - I'd asked the shop to request tolerance information but it's not clear if they did or if they have access to any.
Is it the castle nut that binds the 3 piece linkage together? Mine originally didn't even have that finger tight. Discovered before being ridden as the bike is from the first batch of production where the top pivot aluminium pinch bolts were meant to have been replaced by the bike shop during the PDI with steel ones as well as the red preload ring and rubber wedge meant to have been replaced for the ones with more aggressive knurling.
If anyone's keen on these there is one in the window at 99bikes in Chichester that looks an absolute bargain.
Still kind of blows my mind that you can have a £5k discount on a bicycle... I remember dreaming of a Kona Fire Mountain for £399!
But you're absolutely right, that's a steal for a bike like this, and would be great to see another on the trails around my neck of the woods.
I've been loving mine. Slight tweak to the derailleur as cables settled, and I have swapped out the seatpost for a Oneup V2. The V3 would have given me even more length, but the for an extra £80. The V2 is just long enough to get the minimum insertion line back in the frame, and give me an additional 20mm or so of height for my silly legs.
Any recommendations for servicing? I'm not sure my lbs is up to one of these - they are awesome, super helpful, but spend most of their time on bromptons and bikes with a shopping basket on the front. Bold only have a few registered service spots in the South, so it's a 90 minute drive, but feeling it's probably worth it. I've got a bit of frame creak and click, especially at the start of the ride.
As for the riding, I'm still learning to push it. Previous bike was a fully rigid steel/carbon combo - fine for the South Downs generally, but had to pick my way across some bits of trail, especially close, repetitive ridges and bumps. I'd be fine until I went too quick and the timing started to get out of sync, then I'd end up playing buckaroo. This beastie just glides across the top, smoother the faster I go. I've having to learn my local trails again as there are features that I would previously necessarily approach much slower, and I now come flying in with a load more speed and what was a roller into a turn becomes a jump that launches me off the trail. Great fun!
My third replacement rear end this year is already at the bike shop waiting to be fitted. Front triangle or lower linkage appears to me to have a width tolerance issue when compared to the rear end causing issues such as rear triangle lower pivot bearings trying to shear through the back of their seats. However the warranty practice is apparently only to replace the individual broken part and not the whole frame. So unfortunately it's possible I'll be popping to the shop again in another 180km which seems about my standard distance between visits.
@wibble89 - do you have the Bold Technical Bulletin Dated 11/3/22? Have you/your shop had the other SB/Mod done to add in the small spacers between lower rear triangle mount and the linkage? Without it, that will cause the exact issue you mention - mine came with the frame (to be applied retrospectively) along with the other updated parts you mention, the red knurled pre-load ring etc.
Mines been absolutely faultless whilst in use, remained smooth and play free. Its currently in bits as I stripped it when I bought my e-bike, but had an inkling that I'd still want a 'regular' suspension bike. Its going to be re-built up with the parts from my hardtail at some point in the coming months.
Shocks away for a full service at the moment. Air can service has been done a couple of times myself but it needs the full damper recharge now.
FYI - the air can seals are not the usual Fox Float seals which fit everything else, you need kit 803-01-987
Any recommendations for servicing? I'm not sure my lbs is up to one of these - they are awesome, super helpful, but spend most of their time on bromptons and bikes with a shopping basket on the front. Bold only have a few registered service spots in the South, so it's a 90 minute drive, but feeling it's probably worth it. I've got a bit of frame creak and click, especially at the start of the ride.
@BigSouthernJess I'd suggest findng a Scott dealer with a good MTB mechanic, someone who has worked on the current gen Spark. You can see they even use the same website but theres waaay more Scott dealers. They will still have access to the same knowledge and parts, they just dont have Bold's hanging up in the shock. They come from the same factory, via the same distributors, using the same portals/software/part number formats etc.
Also @wibble89 - as my frame is currently in bits, if you want me to measure anything shout up - I've got some calipers. Could be useful for you to compare.
i can recommend MB Cyclery in Haslmere. Scott dealer I believe, but they know their stuff.
Thank you @snotrag and @specialisthoprocker, great call on the Scott dealer vs Bold, and thanks for the personal recommendation too. Haslemere is not too far!
Cheers @snotrag - Thanks for the kind offer, I may PM you asking after some dimensions. Are the spacers you mention the ones shown as Item B on page 1 of the 11/03/22 service bulletin and again shown on page 4 after Step 11? I interpret that item as a washer that sits between the bolt head and the bearing as some frames had bearings that were too narrow fitted (a single bearing number reportedly has two width options) meaning the bolt bottoms out on its thread rather than the shoulder of the bolt against the inner bearing race. The shop mentioned installing a bearing kit the last time and have one to fit again this time so I assume it is a 297152 kit which says to use without the washers...
Also good info on the shock seals!
Struggling to picture what the service bulletin affects. Is there details available online somewhere?
Cheers Wibble for sending that over much appreciated. Interesting reading indeed and almost looks more complex than belies its elegant clean simplicity. Where do they tuck it all away.
Mines only a couple of rides old as I broke my ankle this summer annoyingly. Its was fine so far but hopefully give it a proper run or two soon now its had its rebuild.
Sounds like you've been very patient with yours to date. Hopefully it gets resolved and the discrepancy gets figured out soon.
There must be a point when its more reasonable to swap the whole thing rather than have a completely dissolussioned customer.
As this seems to be the centre of Linkin knowledge and ownership experience:
What rear mudguards are people using?
I had a seatpost mounted guard that parted ways somewhere on the trails back in the Spring, and with the dry summer I've not got round to replacing it. I'd prefer something mounted closer to the wheel, but the rear triangle is so tight and shallow an angle.
Any recommendations? Thanks in advance for any suggestions. Jess.
I have one of these. Doesn't stop your bum getting wet but protects the povots a bit.