any info on running two chain rings.... One for offroad and one for on road.
could u just run two rings without a mech and do a manual change when reaching the trail???
chrees
Chain tension?
At the mo I have one ring and a old xt mech to take up the slack...
why not just use a front mech ?
Aye - just use a front mech and a rear mech.
Oh 🙄
bottom of the link page - for a double - double the way to go
http://www.whiteind.com/cranks/singlespeedcranks.html
was going to but.... you end up with loads of mud stuck on it and do not want to change gear when offroad cos it is my single speed bike a like the challenge....
But spinning for miles on road is an ass....
Not tried it myself, but if you Google [b]dinglespeed[/b], there's plenty of stuff out there.
For example...
[url] http://robbierickman.blogspot.com/search/label/Dinglespeed [/url]
[url] http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=251420 [/url]
thanks guys...
will give it a go...
Will post pic if it works
i ran a dingle speed on my love hate for a while but as a commuter/off road.
you need the front and rear teeth to add up so you can use the same chain.
think i had 32/18 48/13. the clever ones will point out the numbers don't add up but due to complicated physics/maths that i don't understand there was very little difference in chain tension between the 2 despite the extra tooth.
That's why we used to use flip flop hubs. Cheap, lighter than other solutions.
I used a dingle speed (aka double double) when I rode one speed from Dorset to aviemore.
34:16. 32:18. On a 29er.
This gave me a touring gear and an offroad race gear for when I got to aviemore. I posted up knobbly tyres and clean pants and ran touring tyres on the way up.
My knee blew up in the lakes and I could not stand and pedal - sitting was fine. So I used the offroad gear for the cirkstone pass which I think is the highest road pass in England?
Single speed. You still have at least three speeds there;
sit
stand
push
turn around and freewheel home
Seems to defeat the purpose of singlespeeding to me.
You'll have all the extra weight of a geared bike (deraileurs, shifters, longer chain, etc) but only 2 gears, plus all the maintance of a geared bike.
I've been toying with a similar idea for the DH bike. Hate gears and the associated problems and think this could be a good/expensive compromise. Single ring out back with a Hammerschmidt up front. Don't even know if it's do-able. Any thoughts?
I am with chew. You already have a mech at the back - why not just put a cassette on it?
I thinkt he point with dinglespeed is that you don't have a mech - just 2 chainrings and 2 rear cogs and you manually move the chain betweent he two pairs. Because the chain length doesn't need to change you don't need to take any slack out of the chain when you do this so no need for a tensioner.
im aiming at a dingle speed now
(since the road bike thread)
32:18 for off road.
34/36:15 for road
not sure how the ratios fit, gonna take my geared bike out some time and find a ratio i like on road....
Chew - Member
Seems to defeat the purpose of singlespeeding to me.
If he uses a flip flop hub, he will be perfectly singlespeed. Also retro and traditional - especially if one is fixed 🙂
What more could one ask?
Alternatively, if you feel the need for 2 gears a 3 speed hub is the way to go. The middle gear is the direct (which is used the most) so it feels just like a singlespeed in that gear. It's light and there's no faffing with changing the chain around.
White Industries:
The gear ratios are significantly changed when switching from one combination to another, however, the chain length does not need to be altered to accommodate the two differing ratios
I don't believe this. I ran a dingle for a while and the change in the angle of the chain between ratios means simply adding/subtracting 3 teeth does not mean you can keep the rr wheel in the same place.
I found it good as my staple rides were 50:50 on:off road. But i had to use a chainring as a tensioner, it was mucky and a faff, so I gave it in - road riding on 2:1 is good for the legs adn doesn't need to slow you down much.
That's why we used to use flip flop hubs. Cheap, lighter than other solutions.
but then you can't have disk brakes or tyres that work in a certain direction.
most cassette hubs have enough room for 2 surly cogs which have the correct spacing for the 2 front chainrings so the chainline is spot on.
ran this set up for a year and a half with no problems until i finally bought a proper road bike for commuting on and ditched the higher gear.
I've just converted my singlespeed to run with 2 sprockets on the rear hub. The chainring is 34T and I have a 16T rear sprocket for my commute and a 20T one for hilly off-road rides. I just have to adjust the lateral position of the chain tensioner slightly and move the chain from 1 sprocket to another. The chain does slip a tooth every now and then on the smaller cog under strain but is fine apart from that.
There's also the WI 2 speed freewheel. 2 tooth gap
A while back I thought about running 2 chainrings, say 53 & 39T, with my 16T sprocket. I would have carried a spare bit of chain to suit the bigger ring with another quicklink.
Then I thought sod it, keep just the 39T and put up with the lack of pace on the roadie bits to get me to the proper trails. No regrets 😀