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So I've finally decided to go tubeless (ghetto) and have the gorilla tape, stans fluids etc however I have a shrader valve sized hole in the rim. I saw that it shouldn't matter but just in case I could cut out a presta valve from a tube and use the extra material around the edge.
My question is how wide a diameter should I cut around the valves? I don't want to be overly cautious and stop it sealing against the tape properly if I cut it too wide. My rims are 36mm wide I believe.
Cheers
?
If you are going ghetto then you use an innertube as a rimstrip.
Unless I'm missing something...
I just taped it up as I only ordered the valves once I'd taped it, if only I weren't so impatient...
It's easily done with just tape and a valve. Important thing is to make sure the tape is not too wide, and you put a nice clean hole through the tape to avoid leaks. I use a hot drill bit to burn through.
am I the only one who read the word ghetto?
Just wondering about a valve problem myself, made more frustrating because 3 other wheels work and one doesn't and did. Grrrr
Using Gorilla tape. Most tutorials suggest a cross cut in tape at valve. That what I have done. Would a nice clean hole be better then?
Ive seen the cross cut technique but have never used it so can't compare. I'm sure thousands of wheels are set up that way. I just thought I would burn a hole as it was neater and less likely to split the tape further. I've set up 6 wheels this way, all different sizes (not that it makes any difference), without leaks.
reggiegasket - Memberam I the only one who read the word ghetto?
No, but I take it to mean not using specific UST rims / tyres.
which I did by using gorilla tape, a couple of valves from old inner tubes and non tubless ready tyres. Worked fine, no need for BMX tubes split open etc.
Si
So I could get the tyre to pump up without the sealant with only small leaks from the spoke side of one or two spoke nipples. Is it worth me retaping before I use sealant or should I just let it fill the small gaps?
Went to try it but gave up trying to break the bloody bead. Its very well seated but leaking via valve hole. Tomorrow when my hands are stronger.
Retape Kraken. The worst thing you can do is put sealant in only to find it won't seal, or it seals until you are out on a ride and gives up. Make sure the rim is really clean and dry before taping.
There is some really hard to clear dirt around the eyelets that I'll have to get a toothbrush too or something. I think there was still some water left around there before so that could've done it
Would leaving the existing rim strip in help and then taping over that? the tape makes contact with the rim on either side?
I have Schraeder tubeless vales on my Cannondale Trail. They seem ossum and are super easy to squeeze Stans in.
The only problems I had when doing it cheap was the valves! Since I used Stan's valves not had a problem.
I'd definitely remove the rim strip in order to increase the area that tape is stuck to the rim. If the tape is only in contact with the rim on either side them it's much more likely to lift once there's some air pressure pushing it into the channel.
I wouldn't worry too much about the valve. Rubber screwed tightly into a hole tends to make a pretty good seal.
I read ghetto too. Why are people talking about tape if you're doing ghetto? I thought it was an inner tube cut down so that becomes the seal/strip and you don't need the tape?
reggiegasket - Member
?If you are going ghetto then you use an innertube as a rimstrip.
Unless I'm missing something...
I'm lost. The valve is attached to the tube you cut down so I have no idea why people are talking about tape.
kraken2345 - Member
So I've finally decided to go tubeless (ghetto)
It's a simple misuse/misunderstanding of what ghetto tubeless is.
Sounds like the OP is just using tape to seal some non-tubeless rims.
Jon, you'd be correct I was mistaken. I've managed to seat my new aggressor on the rear which took 2 layers of gorilla tape. However, my minion dhf has been on the front for a year now and has loads of tread left however must've stretched as even 3 layers of tape won't get it to seal. There's so holes in the tyre that I can hear the air rushing out from so I'll have to add a layer or 2 more and hope
From what I think I know "ghetto" tubeless is converting any non tubeless rim using gorilla tape or a bmx inner tube split. I went with gorilla ghetto as that's what I had to hand and it seemed easier.
It's worked perfect except the valves I cut out of some old presta tubes, they are usually the point of failure.
Just ordered some Hutchison tubeless valves, hopefully they'll do the trick.
Well an tube valve works fine on my rear wheel but no matter how much tape I use I can't get my front tyre to seat on the rim, no matter how much I pump.
"ghetto" just means bodging a nontubeless rim by any means that isn't specifically designed to convert a nontubeless rim- ie no stans strips or whatever. Bloody terrible expression tbh but there you go.
Ah ok. Well I'm close to giving up having spent hours trying anything to get this tyre to seal. Feel like with 6 layers of gorilla tape this just won't work.
What's the problem? Are the beads seating and it's then leaking? Or can you not get it to seat? And why do you think the valve is the problem?
It won't seat, It's a dual ply dh tyre with a wire bead and I've used it for about a year and it won't seem inflate like the other did. Taken the valve core out etc to try and get more air in but the bead doesn't seem to be holding very close to the tape vertically so I assume all the air is escaping that way.
Can't use much more tape else there'll be no rim left for the bead to hook into
Decided to wait until I need a new front tyre, got it to seal with the valve core taken out but when I added sealant through the valve the tyre just wouldn't pump up. The amount of tape used is basically the same weight as an inner tube anyway
