In advance: Sorry for yet another tubeless thread, hopefully it'll just be a quick one.
1. I've heard that you can use non-UST tyres for tubeless, and that you don't have to use new tyres. With that in mind, can I use my 2 month old single ply high rollers with a Stans NoTubes kit? Or is it asking for trouble? The tyres are fine tread-wise and don't have any tears etc, although the sidewalls are a little bit marked in that criss-cross sort of way that occurs over time.
2. Secondly, is single ply a really bad idea? I don't particularly want to [i]add[/i] weight to my bike going tubeless, which I almost certainly would do if I went for UST or Dual Ply maxxis. I was looking at some of the Schwalbe 'tubeless-ready' tyres like the Nobby Nic, any thoughts?
(Background: I want to try tubeless because I get on average a pinch every 2-3 rides and it really irritates me. I'm running 2.35 single ply high rollers on Stans flow rims, riding mostly in the peaks)
I converted some 2 month old single ply Minions using a Stan's kit. It took me quite a while to get any air in them and I ended up using padded tape to raise the rim strip up a bit to provide a seal. They leaked air for a few weeks but seem to have sealed up nicely now.
I'd say go for it.
1, I have used old and new non UST tyres with no issues. That pattern on the side has not bothered me. I did change a tyre that was like that when I went on a coast to coast(5 days fully loaded) as a precaution. It has now gone back on the bike okay.
2, I only use single ply. I have got away with it in the Alps as well although this year I did get a flew cuts in the tyres. Others in our party with dual ply suffered in similar way so could just be luck of the draw.
Clean the rim and the bead of the tyre. Use loads of soapy water on the tyre/rim to get the tyre to seat. When it is seated then add the Stans fluid through the valve stem and work it round both beads/tyre walls. with the soapy water all over the tyre you will see where it may be leaking a bit so you can ensure the Stans gets down to that bit. My tyres now hold up for week/months without issue. Currently using wire beaded Maxxis hi rollers but have used Bontragers before.
I have some many-years-old Continental Explorers that are currently doing sterling service tubeless despite the fact that if you look closely the rubber is covered in tiny cracks and quite a few of the knobbles are looking a bit sorry for themselves...
Make yourself a pop bottle air reservoir, it makes topping up sealant, fixing any holes that won't seal or just having a look inside so much easier when you know inflating the tyre again will only take a minute.
In all of the stuff I've read so far on the Stans website, and various manufacturer's websites, nowhere does it say about frantically pumping for 5 minutes.
However I have a compressor so I doubt there will be a problem...
All the videos make it look really easy! Where's the shaking your arms to try to get some life back into them, sweating like a pig in the garage having been pumping furiously for the last ten minutes to no avail, shouting and swearing in frustration at the damn tyres so loud the neighbours can hear, covering everything in a gooey mix of washing up liquid, water and mud...
I've been without tubes now for about 18 months, I certainly wouldn't go back. It's not without issues though and getting tires to initially seat is the main difficulty.
To answer queries above, yes single ply high rollers work fine, used them both with a joes noflats kit on sun rims and on my flow rims with just the yellow tape. They stay up fine and seal up fast.
I generally use a CO2 inflater with tricky tires to get them initially on the bead. Do all the soapy water stuff as others have mentioned, then squirt the CO2 while pressing down on the tyre (pushing it into the rim).
With the flows you can seat new tyres using a tube, then deflate and remove the tube by removing one bead of the tyre only. Install the valve and you can generally get them up first time with a track pump.
Choice of tyre really does make a difference. Most Maxxis ones are pretty easy to get inflated however for ultimate ease the 2bliss ones from specialized are simples!
ffej
All the videos make it look really easy! Where's the shaking your arms to try to get some life back into them, sweating like a pig in the garage having been pumping furiously for the last ten minutes to no avail, shouting and swearing in frustration at the damn tyres so loud the neighbours can hear, covering everything in a gooey mix of washing up liquid, water and mud...
😆 /\ what he said!
Can I also ask, is the stan's rubber rim tape strip supposed to sit right up tight against the top inner edge/lip of the rim?
Just seems to be that it makes it harder for the hook/bead of the tyre to grip against the rim.
Or is the rubber rim strip supposed to fall approx 1mm short of the rim lip, in order for the tyre bead to seatagainst both the rim & the rubber strip?
you get me?
Went down the 20" bmx method on some 12 month old kenda nevegals. The front went up fine but the back was to "loose" and wouldn't inflate. Put on a maxxis ardent and all is well. A month old tyre should be fine I'd say.
I tried tubeless with some really old Panaracer Fire XC - fraught with problems due to the age of the tyres. Loose beads meant that over a short period of time on the trail I had to put tubes in, but due to the latex what I have now is similar to a "tub", as the inner tube glues to the inside of the tyre.
I have got some Spesh mud tyres that are tubless compatabile now, and plan to try the tubeless set up again and see if they work better.