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Set up my road/gravel wheels tubeless last week, skinny 30mm WTB tyres
The front is all good, not losing much air, but the rear drops to about 10psi overnight.
They've been on one 3 hour ride, with a few km off road that I thought would have sorted the rear out. To be fair, it held pressure for the ride, it's just the next morning it was flat again...
At what point would you remove tyre and tape, retape and reinflate?
I know some find this easy but I'm rather crap at it* and doubt I'll do much better next time
*Or my tape is shit... I would be much easier if I tried again with Gorilla Tape, but it's a PITA to remove and not sure it handles road pressures...
Sometimes it takes few rides/take wheel off and do the shake/lay flat on each side for a while to seal any porus bits.
My rear on the roadie has been losing pressure noticeably quicker than the front (front may lose 10psi inbetween rides, rear maybe 25psi down). I knew I should’ve stripped and re-taped it but it seemed like it might sort itself out.
Rewind to last week, I took my bike to work with me (I work away 2-3 nights a week) and when I went for my first evening ride it was completely deflated and I couldn’t reinflate with the track pump I had in the car and missed out on 2 nights of riding (didn’t fancy covering the company car park in tubeless gunk, plus I only had one tube with me somdisnt want to risk it).
I’d sort it out now whilst you’ve got the chance.
(also the Schwalbe high pressure tape that the LBS used when I bought wheels from them seemed to lose adhesion over time, TESA 4289 every time for me).
If it's not right yet, it never will be.
Just re-do it now.
10psi overnight from road pressures? I’d drop another dollop of sealant in the valve and ignore it.
So, a trick I've learned with road tubeless is that if you have trouble getting the tyre to inflate a la mcnultycop- ie when replacing tyre or re-doing the set up, the reason I have failed to get the tyre to reinflate is because the tubless tape has recessed into the spoke holes and allows enough air escape that the tyre won't go up. I now have a big roll of Tesa tape from eBay and put fresh tape wraps when I change a tyre etc. Helps hugely.
As an additional comment the anchovy fillet repair kits work really well but you need to make sure you have clearance for the protruding tail of fillet repair. It's fine on my disc Trek (repaired tyre has done at least 500 miles) but when I repaired the rear on my Cervelo S3, the tight frame clearance meant the repair rubbed as the wheel span.
On Stans website they sell Velox tape, maybe the solution is this and two wraps of tape? Maybe the Velox supports the tape being pushed into the spoke holes by the higher pressure of the tyres?
Just did my Hope 29 er with Stans tape and all good.Gorilla Tape may work for some, but Stans Tape is made fro the purpose. Would you use sellotape as a rim tape?
I think it would be more accurate to say Stans tape is selected for the purpose, it is a commercially available tape.
So, it seems that the morning after posting this it sorted itself...
I had a quick 15min ride to town and back in the eve, gave the wheel a few more vigorous shakes, and two morning's later it seems to have held about 50psi of pressure
I assume it's because the front tubeless set up on my MTB exploded yesterday and the bike God's generally only like to pester me with a limited number of mechanicals at one time