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thankyou!
so, there are calipers out there claiming to be ok, which might kill me. But there are calipers out there also claiming to be ok, which might not kill me. but it's not easy to tell them apart, without buying both, and trying them, till they try and kill me.
Juin tech it is.
yeah I'd done at most maybe 2000km on these, which by your standards is not a lot, I must admit that since seeing pictures of the disassembled calipers I can't understand what is going wrong with mine, I thought it was the ball bearings coming out of the ramps and dropping into the next one, but there are large gaps between each ramp so it surely can't be thisI've been using TRP Spyre for almost a year. I've done more than 10000km with them. I disassembled, cleaned, lubed them after 5000km (with a lot of mud). What I found is you should never use the barrel adjuster, only if you're on the road and you can't adjust them correctly. Otherwise the spring will get weaker and weaker, so you won't be able to fit in new brake pads (they will touch the rotor).
However after seeing the inside, moving it in my hand, I don't think that what you describe could ever happen. I think the inside of your brakes are worn/rusted. If the ball inside gets smaller, it will take more lever action for the same result, but after a time you run out of the ramp. So your caliper have reached it's end of life. It's strange, but once everything will die.
I don't think that this is a so big problem. The problem is, that you can't really check this yourself and TRP didn't warn us. Maybe we should test them without the wheel every day/week?
I didn't disassemble my own calipers to check, because they were to be sent back to TRP, so I'll probably never know, but the pictures I've seen of post-recall models surely can't fail in this way, so there would have to be another explanation
I would quite like to see a picture of the pre-recall bearing ramps to compare
I have recently seen a video on TRPs youtube channel recommending to use the pad adjusters rather than the barrel adjuster to finetune your brakes, this was not in the instructions though so I had no idea about it
one problem I notice with winding in the pad adjusters is that if you have the adjusters in a certain position the spring can get caught on the threads where it loops around, you can hear it ping into place as you apply pressure, this doesn't seem to affect braking performance but I don't think it'll be very good for wear/fatigue, plus the ping sound would get annoying
as the feedback about these has started to trickle in they do seem like a good optionJuin tech it is.
I have had the same problem with Tektro Lyras, I completely lost both brakes near the top of a long and very steep hill. Fortunately I was going slower than I normally would down there, and there was a dropped kerb, grass verge and bushes not far in front of me, so only have bruises and scratches. Lower down there are houses, walls and cars and the outcome could have been drastically different.
I agree with posters above, brakes shouldn't go from performing perfectly well to not at all in the space of a single ride (or even a few hundred metres). I had checked and adjusted them quite recently, and there is plenty of pad left. And even if they were down to the backing, I'd prefer that to be scraping my discs, rather than nothing at all.
Mine are going in the bin. Just ordered some Shimano R517s so hopefully they'll be better (i.e. work).
My Hayes CX5 discs can do something similar. It's only happened with worn pads and the calliper aligned too far to one side, so that the piston was moving really far out. They're only a one sided design though. To be fair though, the performance had got poorer gradually until going completely so it was my own fault for not spending 30 secs adjusting them. These TRP brakes sound like they go more suddenly, which is bad!