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Zakalwe I ride a 57cm road bike but sized down to 55.5 on the Trippy and it's spot on.
I reckon 55.5 to get the standover - I think the sizing chart is more like road sizing and doesn't account for the standover for offroad.
Zakalwe I ride a 57cm road bike but sized down to 55.5 on the Trippy and it's spot on.
Thanks – 55.5cm seems like the way to go, then 🙂 How tall are you [b]curto80[/b], out of interest?
I have just been informed by the very skilled guys at my LBS during a routine service that my Tripster's headtube is slightly ovalised (ie the forks move in the tube despite a lot of grease). I'm obviously devastated, as even though it's still under warranty, we've been through a lot together! Any words of wisdom before I get on the phone to kinesis in a very grumpy way? Anyone else had this? Mine started with a clicking from the headset when hitting any rough ground, sprinting out the saddle or going over speed bumps... 🙁 🙁
Thanks!
Arent ovalized headtubes usually caused by a crash or loose headset?
Not saying that this is whats happened but what did the LBS say?
acfl - when you phone be nice to them. Upgrade are a top bunch and all ride themselves so will understand your frustration.
I've just put a Dynamo front hub on mine. Orderer XT 1x11 as well :O)
I too have just built up a dynamo wheel - stock kinesis CX rim, SP-pd8 (exposure branded) 28 hole hub.
All build up with help from my workshop assistant...!
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I've now 3 front wheels, 2 rear!
DrP
LOL - same hub but in "sensible" 32h flavour.
Teamed up with Revo head unit.
Might pop over to Firle tonight for a test run.
I wanted to stick with the stock rims...hence 28h..
I'm fairly lightweight, and even when I broke 2 spokes in the surrey hills I survived on just 26! (I think I'm not dead...)
DrP
Ovalised headtubes happen due to heat-distortion during fabrication - normal riding wouldn't generate the kind of forces needed to distort the metal.
Cloudnine - that's what I thought, but the LBS said that it was too soon to have been that as I've only done 1000 miles and it was perfectly assembled originally, etc.
Timbur - don't worry I was going to be nice, it's not the fault of the guy on the end of the phone after all! (I meant upset grumpy not angry grumpy!)
DrP - was thinking of building that exact wheel up myself! How is it running for you (or have you not had a chance to try it yet!?) would be interested to know as I am currently hotly debating it with a friend for our next tour! 🙂
Anyone using Reynolds Assault Discs yet?
DrP - was thinking of building that exact wheel up myself! How is it running for you (or have you not had a chance to try it yet!?) would be interested to know as I am currently hotly debating it with a friend for our next tour!
I took it out for about 50 miles on saturday - mostly off road on teh south downs...
It's a wheel, it goes round, it stayed true - i.e it did it's job!
You can feel the 'notchyness' of the wheel when hand spinning it, but not really noticeable in use.
I've no concerns.
DrP
bb - Rory at upgrade is running a pair on his pimped out Tripster. I know he's got a load of miles on it already. Call Upgrade to chat to him. Check the outlet as well as they had a pair in there IIRC.
Thanks to this thread I now own a 54cm Tripster with Ultegra and Shimano hydro brakes. The build is under 9kg including pedals and road wheels. 😯
Any recommendations for mudguards? I've seen a few people suggest SKS Chromaplastic but the set on my last bike broke quite quickly.
Asking for the impossible (in order of preference) are there any which are:
- Easy to pop on and off depending on the weather?
- Easy to install?
- Indestructible?
- Low weight?
See a few pages back for the PDW full metal speed change discussion.
Maybe not the lightest but definately the smartest most solid guards
What weight are your builds coming in at?
I have something similar to this but a burls ti, but with guards, dyno wheel etc it weighs about 14kg, the builds here seem much lighter and I am wondering what I am doing wrong
cheers
You need some of the stand magic scales
My tripster weighs in at 22.8 lbs or 10.35 KG, that's with a son dynamo and lights, the pdw guards weigh in at 1.1 lbs or 500 ish grams so with those fitted it's 24lbs/11kg give or take a gram :wink:.
All XTR shifting/gears/middleburn crankset/praxxis cassette,jones ti loop bars,ti seat post/charge spoon saddle/ti stem/all bolts on bike are ti, spyre slc brakes with paul love levers, king R45 rear hub, Son dynamo front hub built onto Velocity Aileron rims/on-one gravel tyres (tubeless),edelux front dynamo light/son rear, xtr trail pedals.
Not especially light but it's bombproof and ultra reliable.
I could prob drop a pointless 200 grams by fitting the carbon jones bar but that's going onto my Cove hummer when i can be arsed fiddling with gear cable/brake hoses.
(ps the scales at work are calibrated 😉 )
Are the 45mm PDWs the flavour du jour? I assume cross tyres and mudguards won't play well as soon you go off road, but the 30mm only seem to be for 23mm tyres.. been a long time since I've used them.
Tim, I've got a spare, funny shaped chainring in 32 flavour if you want to try it out? Presuming it works with 11 speed.
cheers Soma I am going to get the weights for all my kit
cloudnine: thank you! Unfortunately the PDW guards have gone up from £40/set to £75/set as presumably everyone is now thinking about mudguards! At that price I'll suffer a wet behind and wait and see if they go back down a bit.
velosam: the tripster frame weight 1.5kg - how much dos your Burls frame weigh?
There is a 700g difference between 105 and Ultegra. Muguards weigh up to half a kilo. Dyno hubs are at least 300g heavier than standard hubs. Cheap SPD pedals are 250g heavier than XTR ones. Doesn't take much to add on a few kg.
I'm down 20kg since I started cycling so the difference between 9kg and 14kg is pretty minor in the grand scheme of things. I go up Box Hill without using the bottom three gears now - when I started last year I had to walk up anything bigger than an anthill 😀
My new way to feel like a beginner is to take my Tripster off-road. Last weekend I slid gently into a wall thanks to some muddy cobbles. I have SPD's fitted and I start to panic when I hit mud because I know I'm going to fall off while clipped in. Any tips on how to deal with that?
http://outlet.upgradebikes.co.uk/Outlet/Frames/Kinesis/Tripster/Kinesis-Tripster-ATR-Ti
54cm in the outlet. Needs fork and headset mind.
Not posted on here for a while, but finally made a few tweaks to my standard build Tripster for my latest trip through central Asia. Used MTB triple, Conti touring plus tyres and disturbingly I returned to the early 90s and ran toe clips!
[url=
WELOVEMOUNTAINS.NET Set up in Pamirs[/url]
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Here's my Tripster with 5800 mech, 42mm SKS guards fitted over 32mm tyres. Loads of clearance
Here is what 6800 looks like with 45mm PDW guards fitted over 25mm tyres.
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Required an extra spacer at the chainstay bridge to stop it interfering but as you can see it fits fine now.
eshoote, interesting write up, I enjoyed that, thanks.
I really enjoyed reading your cycling east blog and must admit it played a big part in my decision to get an ATR.
I did a mini tour in the summer in the South Eastern Swiss Alps with bike packs. Found a compact with 11-32 okay, but I should imagine if it was more off road then something lower geared would be better.
You should try some Shimano ST-R685 (although not sure how that would work with triples). Massive difference to mechanicals.
Looking forward to reading the latest adventures.
I'm looking to sell my 54cm tripster, used for one winter (approx 2500miles)
frame set or full build - rs685,6800 groupset, pdw, etc. I'll post an ad in the classifieds soon but if anybody is interested drop me an email
So I have been riding my Tripster which I bought after testing it for GRIT.CX for well over a year now and am still loving it. I went for a short spin yesterday which translated into a five and a half hour ride, much of it off road, and couldn't help but smile the whole time. The rain was lashing down at times and I managed to find one section of track where the mud was nearly headset deep. The brake pads failed simultaneously just as I pulled up at my LBS (hurrah!) but it was closed (boo!) Fortunately, I had a spare set on my bag so was able to get home safely. 😀
The ride got me wondering what folk are using other than full length mudguards? I have a Crud Catcher on the front turned the wrong way round which works brilliantly but want to get a bit more coverage than from my Ass Saver as my rear light was filthy. So what are folk using or are do you just "Jenn the f### up"? 😀
Pdw full metal guards.. Look back a few pages
Sanny - Zefal Swan front and rear set would work for you - loads of clearance. I have them on CDF most of the time
Shimano Hydro RS685 levers and brakeson sale at merlin for £249 if anyone is interested..
MERLINCYCLES.COM I ordered the RS685 kit from Merlin today, that is a steal, saw it posted on BikeRadar. Hopefully it's a fairly straight forward install with no hose cutting/alterations needed.
MANTEL.COM I've now ordered from mantel too.. Will be sending back the merlin order if they are right..
Well that mantel page has gone! Let's see if they honour my order
I managed to order the Mantel ones, so I have two sets coming to me, the ones from Merlin will have to go back.
Mantel order has arrived and it is the full kit consisting of right/left levers and both callipers.
I had kind of hoped the kit would come partially assembled, but it's just the component parts so you have to do all the hose work yourself including fill with oil.
What's the best how-to guide or video to do this?
Does anyone know if you can use a seatpost shim with the Tripster?
I'd be looking to fit a 27.2mm seatpost.
Does anyone know if you can use a seatpost shim with the Tripster?I'd be looking to fit a 27.2mm seatpost.
yes - I am now using the "USE SX Seat Post Shim 31.8" that I got from Wiggle. I use it with a USE ti seatpost.
The Kinesis site says the tripster has a 31.6 seatpost but unless they have recently changed it it is actually slightly larger and several people early on this thread were having to shim it.
I originally had a USE 31.6 shim but had to do the seat clamp up very tight and eventually rounded the bolt which is not very strong, and then had to cut it off with a dremel.
There is also a cane creek shim of that size available and I bought one on a recommendation from here, but it seems a very tight fit in the frame and I took it out for fear it might get stuck.
The use is a perfect fit for my tripster.
I have a USE SX Seat Post Shim 31.6 - fits fine so maybe they've changed something this year.
Thought I'd come back to update on the Shimano hydraulic upgrade. I was about to start it when I needed to speak to my mate who works in a bike shop, he just said "don't be soft, bring it in and we'll sort it". Which he did in no time at all, would have taken me hours (though that would be down to under an hour once you've done it a few times, maybe).
These are a revelation compared to the Spyres (and the Spyres aren't bad). Less pressure needed on the levers, no noise, stop on a sixpence with no drama, they are amazing. I also sold the Spyres and Shimano 105 levers (original equipment on my Tripster) to a member of staff in the shop, so altogether the hydro upgrade cost me about £50! Kind of wish I'd done it earlier, at least I saved a lot of cash 🙂
Just cos I have nothing else to do with this pic. Here's my Tripster the weekend before last in the New Forest 🙂
SKS mudguards, with a bit of bending and drilling, fit nicely.
I shall follow cloudnine's video and see if I can get a good bleed (although it's not crucial as you never need anywhere near full power of these brakes)
Such a great bike.
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Not a ATR, but it's sister(?) same make, Ti but just a little bit more road!
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What forks would any of you tipster owners recommend? I've got some kinesis cxds at the moment but they seem very harsh. Something with a bit of give seems a good idea.