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Every few months it's nice to refresh nice little tips and tricks to make riding, fixing, and generally touching (ooh er) a bike easier!
I came across this one this evening shortly after I'd thought the rear mech had trebuchet'd the quick-link halfway across the village...! I found it eventually (in a patio crack!) but though it would be good to remove the chain tension when joining/removing the quick-link...
Normally have some RC servo wire to hand, but couldn't find any - then found the 'spring' from xt/elixir brakes works brilliantly, and I've got loads lying around!!
So, post away, ideally with pics, all your tips and tricks...
DrP
Loving that.
About 10 inches of m10 threaded bar, 6 penny washers and a couple of m10 nuts and hey presto, a headset press for about 3 quid. I've lost count of the amount of headsets I've successfully fitted with this 'tool'.
That also works for press fit bb's Matt
if you had a gf who had access to nitrile gloves you would find that fixing punctures on manky/muddy days was no longer such a pain
headset removal - 22mm copper tube, cut 2" deep X in end, splay to fit cups - sorted
INVITED by vegetarians for dinner? As you’d no doubt be made aware of their special dietary requirements, tell them about yours – ask for a nice steak
I always carry a few hefty zip-ties and a small roll of plastic electrical tape in my camelback--pretty amazing what you can cobble together to get back to where you parked.
Always change into smallest sprocket at the back before you remove wheel to fix a puncture.
Always put a bike down on its left (non gear) side.
I just fit the quick link into the middle of the bottom run of the chain with smallest sprockets selected, therefore allowing easy fitting with one half of the quick link in each hand without needing any extra tools :p
INVITED by vegetarians for dinner? As you’d no doubt be made aware of their special dietary requirements, tell them about yours – ask for a nice steak
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why do people connect chains when its under tension? I tend to take the rear wheel out or drop the chain off the front chainring, the chain is then slack and makes it pretty straightforward
A20p fits the shimano hollowtech 2 chainset bolt perfectly
To hold a BB removal tool onto the splines I thread a rear wheel skewer through the BB and through some old cranks to take up the slack and then clamp together using the QR, so that I can get some leverage on the BB tool without worrying that its going to slip out the splines.
similar to this but with 2 old cranks..
You can do the same thing for the chain if you pinch it up on the front chainrings. Takes all the tension out,much easier.
When removing pedals, put chain on biggest ring at front, prevents painful knuckle - tooth interfaces
A bic Biro lid is perfect for precision placement of ball bearings back into cup and cone hubs. Just roll them down the little chute on the inside of the pocket clip.
This is now irrelevant for me as I only now have cartridge hubs
if you commute and leave your bike locked up, you can buy locking dust caps for cars from halfords etc ..to prevent pesky people letting your tyres down.
OR..
You can tighten normal caps really tight and then put a really light smearing of petroleum jelly over them. Not too much though or it may go on the rims.
If you have V brakes on your commuter you can secure the springs to the brake arm with a zip tie, to again protect from the peskies.
in my experience V brakes work twice as well with bmx brake levers ( for u brakes, as opposed to bmx race v brake levers.) than normal v levers. Plus these can be picked up for next to nothing., come in funky colours and are designed to be used with one finger.They also have a better lever shape more often than not. Loads of bite, better modulation and greater overall stopping power.In summary, more powerful and responsive.
However haven't tried them with shifters but doubt this would cause issues.
if you have a saddle with some foam exposed from a slightly ripped cover then to prevent further ripping and get it as good as new ( from a funtional viewpoint ) drip some superglue into the wound. Superglue hardens the foam. vinyl bonds to foam. works a treat.
like this game.
if you commute you can get really thin (but with a decent sized cable inside) cable locks. Put this through your saddle rails and then optionally put it through your helmet, securing both items. Can then be looped, through another lock or the frame etc..to secure it. Only risk is the helmet getting damaged in some way, and you may not even be aware this occured.
When stuck and doing some trail side repairs, simply turn your bike upside down and it will balance on the bars/saddle.
Remove your bar end plugs or lock on grips and wrap a few spare spokes and nipples in a decent length of quality duct tape such as gorillia tape and include a number of zipties taped up so the zip tie ends reach from side to side of the internal bore of the bar to ease removal.
For setting up tubeless, lube the rim tape with undiluted motor cross tyre lube, or worst case fairy liquid. The tape, not the tyre bead.
Remove the valve core.
Then use a high volume, low pressure track pump.
Pump until about 25psi and pretty much all tyres will pop on the rim without any hassle at all.
Most tubeless issues are due to high friction, low volume pumps, and tight tyres.
When you want to remember which way to take the pedals off -
when the bike is upright and you put the pedal spanner on so it is vertical "Back Off" - turn the spanner towards the back of the bike and the pedal comes off 😀
to protect your stantions use pipe lagging.
to insulate a water reseviour ( to keep it cooler )apparently you can use a home made gaffer taped thin foam sleeve around it. Add some ice cubes into the water.
edt - the valve cap trick works best with bullet caps.
When you want to remember which way to take the pedals off -
when the bike is upright and you put the pedal spanner on so it is vertical [b](and pointing up)[/b] "Back Off" - turn the spanner towards the back of the bike and the pedal comes off
Changing into the largest chainring as well makes it even easier to put the wheel back on.Always change into smallest sprocket at the back before you remove wheel to fix a puncture.
When on rides, always carry a bowl of water to aid finding and fixing punctures...
The hollowed out skin of a freshly baked jacket potato makes an ideal testicle warmer for chilly Spring mornings. Thanks STW from 3 years ago 😆
For those riding the SDW
If you're going up that's good
If you're going down that's probably ok as long as you can see another up just ahead.
If it's flat you're lost.
Drac - Moderator
INVITED by vegetarians for dinner? As you’d no doubt be made aware of their special dietary requirements, tell them about yours – ask for a nice steak
That is quality Drac! Best tip so far for me!
INVITED by vegetarians for dinner? As you’d no doubt be made aware of their special dietary requirements, tell them about yours – ask for a nice steak
Top Tip - troll as a moderator, then you can't get banned!
Zip tie your cassette to the spokes when your freehub goes free in all directions 100 miles from home.
A piece of cardboard or a large puncture patch will bodge a slit in your tyre well enough to stop the inner tube poking through.
The QR tip for bottom bracket removal also works well for removing a cassette.
Car gearbox oil appears to be the same as Fox Float fluid and is a fraction of the price.
Snapped off the gear cable inside the shifter? It happens on road stis. Use a zip tie to tension the cable at the derailleur end (tie it onto the seatstay) so it will hold the chain on one of the middle cogs. You then have a serviceable 2 or 3 speed bike to get you home.
For all those with tubless problems - use an inner tube 🙂
boblo - Member
When on rides, always carry a bowl of water to aid finding and fixing punctures...
Brilliant. 😀
For directional tyres and to avoid putting them on the wrong way round, most rotors have a rotation arrow on them , well I know Hopes do anyway.. works for me.
Put zip ties, spare chain links etc in your seat post, secure with a cork covered in duck tape. Obviously only works if you don't have a dropper post.
Lummox - Member
A bic Biro lid is perfect for precision placement of ball bearings back into cup and cone hubs. Just roll them down the little chute on the inside of the pocket clip.
THAT is genius.
don't lacerate your thumb removing your DT freehub (by pulling on the cassette) and then dowse your hands in dot4 bleeding brakes.
lummox brilliant!
ezzy does the stuff not rattle? My bikes have enough elusive rattles and squeaks without me adding more. But it does give you ideas, what else could I store in my seatpost? A few sausages for a mid ride bbq? rolled up twister mat, we all get bored waiting at the top of climbs on group rides.
One for D0NK
AVOID getting bored waiting at the top of climbs on group rides by riding uphill slowly.
There, saved you all the hassle of packing that twister mat.
I did try hitting the top, riding back down then riding alongside mates giving encouragement, didn't go well.
rossi46 (or anyone) do you have any more info on that bearings bodge?
cheers
A fiver or tenner is also good for this in a pinch - the paper is pretty tough.ransos - MemberA piece of cardboard or a large puncture patch will bodge a slit in your tyre well enough to stop the inner tube poking through.
If you use mavic UST rims check the valve locknut once in a while - they are prone to corroding on as you go so long between punctures. Siezed valve out in the hills could be a nightmare if you did flat - you'd need a pair of pliers to get it out and stick a tube in there.
[i]A fiver or tenner is also good for this in a pinch - the paper is pretty tough.[/i]
Would make a change from throwing money at my bike to actually installing money on it, I suppose.
If you've got chain grease splatter on your skin or if your child Like mine manages to get chain prints all over his calves when riding in shorts.
To save scrubbing the skin away just gently rub over some marge (any brand even butter if you are posh) until the area is covered.
Then wipe off with a damp cloth (wets wipes work best) and it just disappears.
To save scrubbing the skin away just gently rub over some marge (any brand even butter if you are posh) until the area is covered.
Then wipe off with a damp cloth (wets wipes work best) and it just disappears.
2 things here.
1)my dirty mind is going into meltdown.
and
2)WTF do they put in margarine!
To avoid scratching your saddle and grips/shifters keep your bike the right way up when doing trailside repairs.
Having problems with tubes? Try tubeless.
bung a couple of latex gloves in your camelbak. That way, if you need to commit a serious crime whilst out on the trails, you leave no fingerprints!
Irritating Piles can be repositioned with a Crank Brothers pump and a healthy application of KY. Your Sportive will be a much more pleasant "race" after this.
A piece of cardboard or a large puncture patch will bodge a slit in your tyre well enough to stop the inner tube poking through.
Cut the ends of an old toothpaste tube and slit open. Saves on buying a tyre boot and you'll get at least one extra teeth clean out of it!
1) [Well known] Never get involved in a land war in Asia
2) Only slightly less well-known is this: "Never go against a Sicilian when death is on the line"!
Carry a small jar of honey with you on a trail, and if you tear your tyre beyond repair, simply smear a small (thin, or else the honey will just run) amount onto the crack and then leave in the sun to dry and harden, you may need to repeat the process again to get a second layer but I have done this a few times. It also works with inner tubes if you have run out of patches.
I don't run tubeless but I guess you could fix that too if you tear a tyre but probably need 4 layers min I'd say.
Edit, with inner tubes it's really only a get me home measure but comfortably holds 35 psi
😯 No not really it cannot be
Carry a small jar of honey with you on a trail
&
I have done this a few times
seriously? drink check, some cash check, spare tube check, phone check, small jar of honey, errrrr.
can't help thinking of tubby old pooh bear 'hummm time for something sweet'
Golden syrup works as well.
cardo - MemberFor directional tyres and to avoid putting them on the wrong way round, most rotors have a rotation arrow on them , well I know Hopes do anyway.. works for me.
Surely the rotors being there at all, or even the rotor bolts if rotors aren't installed, is enough to mean it's pretty obvious which way the wheel goes round... 😕
Carry a small jar of honey with you on a trail,
If a bear attacks ,throw it over your riding partner and make good your escape 🙂
To save scrubbing the skin away just gently rub over some marge (any brand even butter if you are posh) until the area is covered.
Or just use shower gel.. 😯
Yeah, as good as carrying an extra repair patch 😕 - tastier though, if you're bonking and need to eat somethingCarry a small jar of honey with you on a trail
Golden syrup works as well
Rogan Josh you are Jim Lovell and I claim my £5. 🙂
For when the weather eventually gets back to normal again. Those fish shaped soy sauce bottles you get in supermarket sushi are ideal for holding a bit of chain lube.
Just got my Squirt Lube Trial - will be keeping the bottle!
No one expects the Spanish inquisition,
TIP:
Expect the Spanish inquisition.
[i]Siezed valve out in the hills could be a nightmare if you did flat - you'd need a pair of pliers to get it out and stick a tube in there[/i]
Carry a small pair of pliers (or leatherman type tool)!
I'm calling BS, I'd rate this with putting grass in tyresCarry a small jar of honey
I have never put grass in my tyres, officer.
I'm calling BS, I'd rate this with putting grass in tyres
It's a Honey Trap
I'm calling BS, I'd rate this with putting grass in tyresIt's a Honey Trap
Yeah I'd Bee careful with this one.
After washing yer bike hotel shower caps are great for shielding rotors and calipers from spray lube like GT85.
Note: DO NOT use the O/H's pink Hello Kitty cap for this purpose. 😯
Made a mate do the grass-stuffing thing on Deadwater fell once. We didn't hang around to find out how delighted this made the midgies, but it's fair to say my mate didn't look too happy when he got back to the car.
I'm calling BS, I'd rate this with putting grass in tyres
I've done the grass trick. The rim sidewall had sheared so impossible to repair with a new tube. It's very slightly better than nothing.
No one expects the Spanish inquisition,
The irony being of course that the inquisition always sent advance notice so you always knew exactly when to expect them.
Rogan Josh - MemberCarry a small jar of honey with you on a trail, and if you tear your tyre beyond repair, simply smear a small (thin, or else the honey will just run) amount onto the crack and then leave in the sun to dry and harden, you may need to repeat the process again to get a second layer but I have done this a few times. It also works with inner tubes if you have run out of patches.
I don't run tubeless but I guess you could fix that too if you tear a tyre but probably need 4 layers min I'd say.
Edit, with inner tubes it's really only a get me home measure but comfortably holds 35 psi
This trick works so well, Kenda have named a new line of tyres in its honour:
Grass in tyre. Yup, saved me from a 12 mile walk home when my pump failed.
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Ugly birds: become more attractive by simply moving North.
😈
To affix grips to bars, use a length of 2" double sided tape wrapped around the bar, cover in white spirit then slide the grip on.
Use increasing layers of tape to increase grip diameter, or use a longer length of tape and stretch the grip over it to reduce the diameter.








