...has to be CatEye wireless CC-MC200W.
[img] 
[/img]
[img] 
[/img]
It needs 4 buttons STOP, START, MODE, RESET.
[b]IT DOESN'T HAVE TO BE ANY MORE COMPLICATED THAN THAT![/b]
and relax.
[img] 
[/img]
[img] 
[/img]
[img] 
[/img]
[img] 
[/img]
Why do planet x superlight hubs need 4 sets of bearings when all the other ones I've come across only have 2?
And how do you get the b&stard things out?
😀
Take it back and swap it for one of these:
[img] 
[/img]
One button.
So simple, even I can use it.
Get a Garmin. Switch on, go ride. Repeat.
I'm going to say Rohloff - but not the hub, they're pretty simple to set up really. I'm going to nominate the Rohloff Revolver III chain tool, the most insanely complicated chain tool ever made.
Trying to set up an Alfine 11 speed so you don't smash your nuts into the stem.
Sent back now, just waiting for the refund as it's not fit for purpose
The insides of a 1991 rear 300LX STI shifter when you're 15
Alfine 11 hubs are great - they introduce people to the idea of hub gears, then they break so people end up buying a Rohloff 🙂
[s]The insides of a 1991 rear 300LX STI shifter[/s] [i]anything[/i] when you're 15
I remember many a night's bad tempered tool-hurling in our garage as whatever bit of kit it was I was working on wouldn't do precisely what was asked of it first time... 😳
Well, I've established that it isn't broken. I'll just have to spend a couple of hours trying to understand the instructions. 😐
The surly front nice rack is a great bit of kit. Dead easy to fit to a surly. And cos surly are actually rather clever folk (don't let the unicorns and grufty roughty ness fool you) they give you everything you need to fit it to almost any other bike. Some people claim to have even fitted it to sheep.
This is what you get... Plus the actual rack.. About 100 bits.
On the plus side the left over refill my nuts and bolts tub
[img] 
[/img]
😯
Charlie that Surly kit looks like the stuff they've used to pin my forearm with! 🙂
It was like taking an Exam...
"4. Measure the distance between the fork dropout eyelets...outside to outside. See figure 1. Your measurement will be most accurate if there is a hub secured in the dropouts.
5. Calculate the number of spacers needed for attaching the offset sliding plates to the rack.
Use this formula:
154mm - eyelet spacing (measurement from step 4) - 15mm = spacer amount per side / 2
Example: (154mm - 110mm (1x1 fork eyelet spacing measurement)) ÷ 2 -15 = 7mm. 7mm of spacers are needed between each offset plate and the rack."
But an incredibly good rack. Fitting to a lht takes no time.