So last night I spent an un-eventful 20 mins cutting a steerer, and installing a star nut. Who knew that by using a saw guide and a star nut setter a job that always been a been a bit of a 'mare can be done easily and simply? I mean; I'm unlikely to use them again in a hurry, but having a perfectly cut steerer and a straight star nut is more than worth the 25 quid they cost.
A nice deburring tool also worth adding into the mix
Tapping a steerer for a OneUp tool is also a very soothing alternative.
I get just as much joy from having the correct job for the universal tool.
The little 3d printed bleed tool that allows one piston to extend at a time on 4-pots also falls into this category.
A JIS #2 screwdriver in a shimano mech adjuster.
until I bought said screwdriver, I never knew...
I'm in the other camp too - the joy of being able to improvise such that you can avoid needing the "correct" tool.
I get where you're coming from though.
I use one of these for steerer tubes
Takes ages but it's perfect every time and no need for deburring. You might get a clean cut with a saw guide but it can still be wonky.
I use one of these for steerer tubes
I used to use one of those until I realised it was not actually cutting material away like a saw does, it is just forcing its way into the metal which raises a ridge on either side of the cut. The result is a lip on top of the steerer which needs a fair bit of filing off if you have a tight stem. What I do now is use one of those to make a line then saw my way around it turning the fork as I go.
I also used to use one of those. A saw guide and a saw is much better. The raised ridge is a pain. Plus most of those tools are cheap crap and have loads of slop in them.
Yeah, I've used and broken those pipe cutters in the past. I think they're fine for thin copper plumbing, but struggle a bit on a steerer tube.
Similar. Bought a more expensive bleed kit with nicer syringes and better fittings and it's a joy to use. Still not perfect but much easier than the crappy things I used to mess around with
Carbon steerer similar, guide and a new blade ?
I possibly need to cut my CX bike down a little and its a carbon steerer with a bung, not star nut.
@fossy yes use a guide. The (pedros I think) one I have has a part you turn around for use with carbon blades.
What's even more satisfying is using the correct tool... Correctly.
Hacksawing straight without a guide.... Next level.
The setter is absolutely worth it every time though...
And last but not...
...used very often (but so much easier than a hammer and a block of wood - and crossed fingers)
Even with a proper guide I somehow manage to cut mine horribly wonky. Maybe I need to upgrade my tiny saw.
Those tools for putting the Barb in to the brake hose are fab. So much easier than anything else
I have a saw guide and a pipe cutter, I prefer the pipe cutter. I don't end up with a lip but I always go round with a file to smooth the edges anyway
I recently bought some Wera allen keys and a matching torque wrench. I cannot get over how much better they engage in bolt heads than cheaper hex keys, especially worn/soft ones. And the allen keys themselves aren’t even that expensive!
chrismac
Full MemberThose tools for putting the Barb in to the brake hose are fab. So much easier than anything else
Oh god yes, I was trying to think of what the best example with bikes is, and there it is. Doing without can be damn nearly impossible, and it's one of those jobs that can smell fear so the later it is or the more pissed off or cold you are or especially if there's just barely enough hose, that's when it fights back. But doing it with it is an absolute pleasure.
(though the Sram threadey-in ones are a lovely solution, better overall really, it's not as nice to do)
Three legged gear pullers. I’ve always struggled to get a cog off an interference fit shaft, using mallets/wedges/levers etc. I finally bought a set of 3 gear pullers last week for £15. Oh my, how easy it was to pull a cog off a motorbike engine primary side.
One of these…. after years of wonky cuts with stanley knife or cable cutters… a 2 in 1 lovely thing
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Whenever this comes up, star nut setter is a popular choice.
I love using mine, but I then enjoy the satisfaction of cutting the steerer tube straight freehand, with a hacksaw.
Using my air compressor to seat tubeless tyres is always a pleasure.
It might techincally be the "incorrect tool", but my Knipex plier has quickly become my most-used tool (apart from the 4mm and 5mm hex keys and the mallet) as it's so versatile.
Although at some point in the next couple of days I have to remove a Truativ crankset, so that's a set up that involves a set of kitchen steps to rest the offside pedal to stop the crank from turning, an 8mm hex and an old handlebar to give me some leverage, and me sitting on the rear tyre to stop the whole thing from moving...
those are the correct tools, right?
Putting end caps on using a proper crimper...
And saw guides for cutting steerers. Especially when you work out the metal edge is meant to go into a vice and everything is held steady for the cut. Bliss...
I'm not really sure how you can cut the steerer wonky with one of these?
becasue you can put the steerer in slightly on the piss. The line is pretty much always going to be straight, but may not be at 90degs
My favourite tool for cable ends is super glue. It looks cleaner and doesn't mess the end of the cable if you ever need to remove it.
I’m not really sure how you can cut the steerer wonky with one of these?
Depending on the design they don't all clamp the steerer at a perfect 90 degrees and some of them have quite a wide slot for the saw. The cut will be straight but it might not be perpendicular. None of this is an issue if you're not a tart.
I'm happy with my cheap pipe cutter. Never broken a blade and never had the bulge problem either.
My favourite tool for cable ends is super glue. It looks cleaner and doesn’t mess the end of the cable if you ever need to remove it.
I've soldered a few in the past. Looks good. Might try it again.
I'm a fan of these. Make removing stubborn end caps so much easier without resorting to external clamping (which invariably damages the finish).
Never seen that Hub Genie before, might have to get one.
Those cheap magnetic cable feeding kits from amazon for internal routed frames are ace.
The thing I'm missing along these lines is a bearing press for hubs/ BB. I mean, a socket set can work but it feels a bit to imprecise and potentially damaging.
Yeah, I've an old headset press that I bodged into using as a press fit BB tool, but 1. it's a bit heavy for that, and 2. the press doesn't have the right interface to the BB bearing and I think I've probably shortened the life span of the bearings on one side by pushing against the inner face.
Plus I'll need a removal tool anyway...
Do we need a parallel thread called "The Joy of Using Tools Correctly"?
A proper socket style tool for Shimano HT2 bottom brackets is blissful if you've endured the horrid plastic insert things they supply to fit their more recent, smaller BBs. Bought the Lifeline Pro one from Wiggle and it's ace. The colour choice is, erm, 'interesting', but I quite like it.
Who has the correct tool for pressfit Dub BB removal then? I certainly don’t!
I’ve just used a Unior PF removal tool to take out a GXP BB. Excellent bit of kit.
https://uniortools.com/eng/product/1625-2BB90-bb90-removal-tool
Not sure if the BB30 will work with a DUB?
I've a couple of bearing presses and also a 12 ton workshop press, but I fit just about anything press fit into bikes with a rubber mallet, or for bearings a socket and hammer. I mean, yes you can screw it up but then you can screw anything up if you try hard enough, and at least when you're bashing things in with a hammer you're on your guard
(there's probably an actual scientific name for this but I think of it as the torque wrench effect- diyers with a first torque wrench often end up damaging stuff because as soon as they're waiting for hte click or the beep, they stop thinking about anything else)
ooh yes, that Unior looks like the sort I’ve seen on ebay. I tried a hammer and punch type one and it wouldn’t budge it. 45quid hmmm
Yup - it’s a lot, but was very smooth and effortless. The whole bashing it out with a whaling great drift doesn’t seem right (especially on a carbon frame - though guessing the frames put up with a lot worse than that).