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For me; a 29 version of the new P7. Failing that, a revamped Solaris with a rear through axle.
Wirelessly chargeable lights and computers, not having to remove the rear lights from the bike to charge them would be great
Frame paintwork that can withstand the rigours of bikepacking luggage [i]and[/i] Scottish weather/conditions.... 😥
Hope carbon frame.
An electric bike, imagine that.
Shimano to release 105 di2 with a far cheaper price tag than the current basic ultegra di2
A Kona Honzo-esque frame in a decent steel so it doesn't weigh a tonne. Or make the Alu frames available.
Widespread adoption of 142x12 hub spacing.
Campag disc brakes but at a lowish level.
A cx frame which can be run as a fixed-wheel, with gears, with discs, with v-brakes and with the full complement of braze-ons.
I like rebuilding my bike into different guises. Cross-check/straggler comes close but you then have the choice of disc OR v. NOT both.
humbug.
Edit:
oh! and a fork-crown mount for an exposure light. (the exposre brackets are brilliant but only for handlebars.
Edit2:
and a 27.2 dropper that works!
Full carbon Salsa Spearfish with rear travel increased to 100mm.
nowt
a 650b Cove G-Spot frame that doesn't weigh as much as the moon, nor cost £3k.
26" forks
Widespread adoption of 142x12 hub spacing.
Soooo last year. 148 and wider is the future.
26" forks
I'm not sure I'd be able to utilise that much travel.
Some amazing way of holding wheels in the frame and removing them quickly. It would be light, universal fitting and would last years, and all bike shops would stock them.
I would call it the 'Velox Sejungo'
Properly sealed maintenance free bearings would be nice. I can dream can't I?
A Pinion type gear box and belt drive at a sensible price .
Starling Cycles Beady Little Eye, full sus singlespeed...
My old 456 SS frame but in carbon/27.5/27+compatible with a tapered headtube, interchangeable QR/142/148/slot 'swapouts' and 31.6 seatpost sizing...
Oh and I want it for under £100.
And a similarly cheap 'old school' Marzocchi type open bath 120-140mm fork that can magically swap between 20mm/15mm/boost hubs. Oh and only weighs a kilo...
To mirror most of what has been said above.
A(ny) specialist product that is as good as the best, for the price of the cheapest mass market one.
That or a flight to the moon, for the cost of an easyJet flight to Benidorm.
Time machine so I get a chance to ride
Transparent (or, at least, translucent) frames. Will make all those bare metal frames look so last year...
Rachel
Ritchey Outback
A non-boost Cotic Flare max. So That I can use my existing forks and wheels on a new frame. I can't justify buying a whole rolling chassis but I could just about afford a frame only.......
29er Cove Stiffee.
Quick release pedals to make putting the bike in the car easier
70mm wide, 29er, CF, single wall, tubeless rims...
Cheers!
I.
Revised parkwood. So needs to be as cheap as chips, boost and bolt through, swap out dropouts too, and at least 60mm more reach.
[quoteTime machine so I get a chance to ride
This, only this.
A non-boost Cotic Flare max. So That I can use my existing forks and wheels on a new frame. I can't justify buying a whole rolling chassis but I could just about afford a frame only.......
Nothing, surely, stopping you using 'old' forks and front wheel?
Can you not Boostinator your rear wheel? At worst it's a new rear wheel (£250?).
boostinating means altering the dish I think. Not likely to be successful with a four year old Mavic Crossmax ST
A bigger Stooge. (For Me)
Awesome bike but an extra inch or two and ability for me to run a dropper and it would be spot on 🙂
boostinating means altering the dish I think. Not likely to be successful with a four year old Mavic Crossmax ST
would this work:
[url=]boostinating means altering the dish I think. Not likely to be successful with a four year old Mavic Crossmax ST]clicky[/url]
Linderets Boostinator kit for standard hubs
I'd like to see more brands using shorter seat tubes, now that we have nice long droppers - to give us stumpy-legged folk a greater choice of frames.
So many great interesting bikes ruled-out by unnecessarily long seat tubes these days.
400mm on a medium and 430mm on a large would do it.
Sram Force E-tap.
Thanks,
Max
430 on a large? Wowsers
I'm not used to droppers but even with seat post slammed I still prefer a longer seattube than that else it feels like your riding a kids bike. 150mm dropper is plenty I'd say.
Cranks in a proper range of sizes (down to 130mm, to go with xs frames)
650b carbon ht, with shimmed 27.2 seatpost, boost, 120mm Fox32, 2x10 Deore, 35mm rims and 2.6 tyres and a £1k c2w price tag.... 😉
Sram etape xx1.
And maybe an xd fitting road cassette in 10-28 or 10-30 for 1x builds.
A raw, stainless tubed version of my 1st gen SIR.9, with the rear re-jigged to run fat or 29+. The bb would have adapter shells to increase its width. It also features a Maxle rear end & bolt-on cable guides (stainless, obviously),
It would be called the SSIR.9++
Re-launch of the Shimano XTR UN91 bb.
^^ Id not thought about un91 or even xt level taper bb with a nice hollow axle. At work we still fit loads of taper bb and the modern ones are all rubbish compared to un72 and un91.
And yes I know Phil and Royce still make nice ones but not at a price that suits many
Oh and I want stans to not discontinue the alpha 340 road rim
Alloy light and good value