...without being rude...
Flats, trendy curvy bars, traditional risers, negative rise stem - what, and why?
What: Flat EA70's, -ve rise stem, on an el-mariachi.
Why: It fits me, it's comfortable and it's what I had in the garrage.
Well, he's called Brian and he's just super 😉
On my Fortitude I run 762mm flat bars 9degrees of sweep IirC with Ergon grips and a 29er+ wheel in the Cromoto. Zero rise stem as the front end is already fairly low.
On my Sherpa I run the same bars, bolt through Cromoto fork and std grips. Currently a zero rise stem but I may swap it out for a negative rise one.
On my Inbred ( nursery run, shopping etc ) bike I run Mary bars. The ride position is much more sit up and beg. Running a zero rise stem but on top of 30mm ish of spacers. The bar is very comfortable and confidence inspiring at low speeds especially with LMTTM junior on the back.
Currently looking at building a Longitude and hoping to try a Jones loop bar as its wider than the Mary and I hear sprinkled in awesome dust for that extra gnar.
I think I'd want old school flats and bar ends for the bike I'm planning, but what I actually have is a 660mm riser.
Bike: Stooge
What: Answer 20/20 Carbon (width 720mm)
Why: more comfortable on longer less technical rides
What: On-One Knuckleball Chewy version (width 747mm)
Why: noticeably softer, better position on more down oriented stuff
Bike: Inbred with rigid Salsa fork
Whar: On One Mary (width 645mm)
Why: ideal commuter bar (too narrow for trail use)
To try: Jones Loop (carbon?), something in titanium
I've got the Salsa Cromoto steel fork on El-Mariachi. The ride is suprisingly good for my local trails and am enjoying it, but I won't pretend I can handle the bigger faster descents on it though. For the last few months, I had Nobby Nic 2.25F/Crossmark 2.1R. (BTW I've got 680 Carbon risers and an 80mm 6deg stem.)
I've just put a 2.35 Hans Dampf on the front and moved the Nobby Nic to the rear and I took the opportunity to lower the pressures by a couple of lbs each end. I may try something like a P35 rim and Maxxis Chronicle on the front in future, but I don't want to overly fat, as I still want to get up those South Downs Climbs LOL.
I'd also be interested to try a Carbon bolt-thru rigid but the setup I currently have seems to be working for me. I like the look of the Travers Rudy and Prong fork.
Seems like most people are using something curvy or non traditional in some way. Is there a technical reason or are you just all just niche whores striving to be different with your bar choice as well as your bike? 😉
It's a stock Haro Mary SS. Funnily enough they're fitted with Mary bars, set at saddle height. Chunky Monkey 2.4" tyres. And a wrecked headset, replacement in the post I hope.
Niche bikes require niche bars 😀
Flat, swept 25.4mm fleegles with Rocket Rons down below. A bit of rise in the stem, none in the bar.
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The stability of the larger wheels allow the use of less stable niche/curvy bars .... A fact well documented.
I do love the look of that Inbred Stoner.
OT question .... What ratio do you run on your Rohloff (F&R)?
Scandal frame, nukeproof carbon forks, 80mm cheap stem, 685mm wide low rise EC70's and a Spesh purg with a slow puncture. Old hope minis and superstar excel grips.
LMTTM - Let me go and check. I know I aim to keep the same chainring for SS and 'hoff to make life easier. Back in a tick.
EDIT: SS I go 36:20, the rohloff I run at 36:16.
So that's a regulation 52" gear inches SS, and 18" to 95" with the rohloff. 700c obviously.
Flat EA50-685mm, negative 90mm stem on a ss steel inbred. It fits, was cheap and I've always got on with the sweep of Easton bars. No need for anything curvier.
My Karate Monkey came as standard with a looong stem and Salsa Moto bars. Didn't like that at all.
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So I swapped them for a pair of on one fleegles which were quite nice but quite narrow. Stuck with these on anshorter Thomson stem until I sold it.
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I recently bought it back and have now fitted some sunline v1 low rise bars which fit me well.
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I need to take a better pic
Flat Carnegie's
Seems like most people are using something curvy or non traditional in some way. Is there a technical reason or are you just all just niche whores striving to be different with your bar choice as well as your bike?
Just comfort more natural position for the wrists
It looks like this -
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Stem has a slight negative rise. Bars are Renthal Fat Bar Lite 1cm rise. Works for me.
My Niner One 9 has Niners RDO carbon forks, bars(710), stem(110) and one of Spechies 2.1 Small block tyres on.
No gears, two brakes, ESI thick grips, and a Hope headset..
Enuf info or would you like my inside leg measurement too 😛
On the air 9c - 80mm kcnc stem and 640mm mt. Zoom (4 degree sweep with bar ends - oh the horror)RDO rigid fork
on the Czar - 80mm kcnc stem and 710mm mt zoom bar. This bar is dead straight and its giving me wrist ache! Thinking of changing back to 7 degree sweep 710, again from mt. zoom. 100mm Reba fork
<Hijack as it seems like the right thread for it.>
http://singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/wtd-singular-swift-fork-1
Anyone got a 485ish rigid fork to sell me? A Singular Swift one ideally...
On the stooge- 0' 50mm stem with 745mm low rise bars
In the family:
On the Gary Fisher- 90mm stem with 720mm bars
I ride all the bikes a fair bit but the Stooge is the most fun by miles.
The Gary Fisher has awful geometry and it's to small for me.
I have a flat 760mm El Guapo Ancho bar (9 deg back sweep) and a 80mm +7deg stem flipped to make it -7deg on my Karate Monkey.
Big squishy Chunky Monkey tyre on a wide-ish Pacenti DL31 rim helps with trail buzz.
Feels about right for what I want it for.
I am intrigued to try some wider (710mm) Jones Bars on it now that they are doing the slightly more reasonably priced Bend bar in that width.
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People have more than one rigid 29er?!
Yes, three/four!
Kona Unit. 725mm Race Face Atlas bars, 80mm stem and a 2.25" Maxxis Beaver tyre.
I am the anti-niche. 😉
Easton Monkeylites (flat, minimal sweep, 720mm I think) a 90mm stem of some description (6deg, inverted) and some Cane Creek Ergo IIs. I've never quite got round to fitting the Loop Bars though my experience of having them on the fatbike is that they are ace for bikepacking.
Forks are Exotics (bought from Northwind, ta) and tyres are Maxxis Ardent 2.25s.
I can't imagine having more than one of the same type of bike when there are so many different types to try. Having a duplicate wouldn't justify the cost for me!
define "duplicate".
you say 2x 29er rigid = duplication.
Some might say 2x bikes = duplication.
Assuming most people with more than 1 29er arent riding around on identical frames/forks then, no, it's not really duplication any more than owning two bikes is duplication for most of us.
Jones with 660mm older-style H-bars and a 90mm stem. Usually a 2.4 Ardent or 2.3 Purgatory on 35mm rims.
H-bars because they mean I use different muscles that help with more push-pull of the bars needed to ride a rigid bike smoothly. Also way more comfortable for long rides and I like the way I can shift my grip position fore-aft a few inches. The ergonomic ideas behind the 45 degree sweep are spot-on imo, one of those things I liked as soon as I tried it. Suspended bikes feel to me like they need more bracing against the deflections at the front and a wide flat bar feels better there. If I was hitting stuff in that way on a rigid I'd be off sooner or later so an H-bar helps keep the speed up by being more in control and smoother, picking lines more accurately (it's narrower so it feels like I can react quicker, a smaller movement for a given steering change, 760mm bars feel slower in that respect), hopping or lifting the front over stuff etc. Different bikes, different control needs, different riding style. And a chunk of personal preference.
I'm running a chewy knuckleball on the front of my lurcher...
Not really done all that much with it yet, but it seems to be doing everything I ask of it.
Duplicate to me is two of the same type of bike. So 29ers x 2 is duplicate because they don't allow you to get anything different out of the same trails.
To me the 5 and the Patriot are a bit close, which is why I'm converting the 5 into a 29er 🙂
Two 29ers. Quite different.
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Nemesis, what's that second bike? It's unusual to see a mountain bike with raked forks - it looks great.
No idea other than it says 'Wolfhound' - came up on google search...
Two 29ers. Quite different
I said rigid 29ers, at least in the first post. How different can fully rigid 29er use-cases be?
A Wolfhound, interesting custom builder in the States. Makes that sort of high-front, short-rear, woodsy, rigid 'Jonesy' 29er. Bystickel has been doing a similar thing for ages also, could be said to be the first to make truly short rear-end 29ers.what's that second bike?
Thanks, Jameso. Typical - I always take a shine to the expensive bikes! Raked forks = $900.
You could get a similar fork from a UK builder for less than that though.
Karate Monkey. Standard forks, shortish On One stem with Mary Bars. On One Chunky Monkey on front (Smorgasbord on back).
It's an absolute truck but I loves it.
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My rigid 29er is just a boring old El Mariachi with matching forks. I switched out the Salsa bar for a On-One Knuckleball bar, the 'chewy' version. It was noticably more comfortable on jarring hits than the stock alu bar, cant say if the 'hard' version of the bar is better or worse but im happy with this one (with the graphics taped over). Note the chewy only comes in 747mm width.
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EC70 carbon flat bar, 720mm
Kinesis IX forks
90mm stem
Cube Reaction frame
Will get some pics done soon
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jameso - Member
what's that second bike?
A Wolfhound, interesting custom builder in the States. Makes that sort of high-front, short-rear, woodsy, rigid 'Jonesy' 29er. Bystickel has been doing a similar thing for ages also, could be said to be the first to make truly short rear-end 29ers.
I think, if your riding consists of anything more aggressive than toe-paths then getting weight off a rigid front is a priority to avoid being beaten up - so yes, the likes of Steve Stickle and Fred Cuthbert's designs work well
However, they are pricey and not without their issues
Much better and an awful lot cheaper to get a Stooge 🙂
After many iterations...
50mm stem.
Non O/S Carbon Monkey bars (in a decidedly olde worlde 685mm width).
LizardSkinz NorthShore grips.
Tried flat bars but too stiff. The grips are nice & squidgy.
Big front tyre helps, & Knarding up the front recently was the icing on the cake.
All helps to take the sting out of rigid front.
I've long been a fan of lifting the front up for rigid.
I put a 29er rigid on a 26" Inbred & it was perfect.
Always baffled me why they assume your swapping out an 80 or 100mm fork
Genesis Fortitude with the OE 80mm stem in rise position and a set of Sunline V1 flats cut to 736mm with Syncros single ring pro lockons. Tyre wise it's a frankly huge (in my book) Bontrager 29-4 (old style) set up tubeless with about 20psi in it
RC31's (yes they are 440mm), Thomson 70mm & Easton flat carbons cut to 690mm, quite steep but quite quick on non technical XC stuff.
Cheers.
From the top the numbers are :
740mm
12.7mm rise
4° up
8° back
50mm
0°
40mm spacers
127mm HT 69°
Fork 475mm /55mm offset
45mm rim
3" tyre
Cromoto - Spank 777 - Point One Racing 90 mm - 2.4 Ralph
On One ti 29er with niner carbon fork (470mm). Truvativ Stylo 40 stem 90mm length and Thomson ti flat bar.
Exceedingly harsh front which took a little getting used to after a pace carbon fork and easton flat bar.