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For the 2nd time in a month, I've ended up with my cassette stuck on a hub body due to it cutting into the alloy. The 2nd time on a wheel that I've used once and am having to return for another issue. Should I expect a replacement of the hub too?
Is this a normal issue and how should I deal with it? First one saw the hub come away still jammed into the cassette. I guess it's a by product of wanting lighter hubs.
Aluminium freehubs should only be used with more expensive cassettes with an aluminum gear carrier. If you want to use cheaper all steel riveted cassettes then you need a steel freehub
In both cases cassettes were ultegra 6800.
Well there you go then. half the gears are steel bearing directly on the hub. In fact I think they aren't even riveted so all of the pedalling force bears through a single gear's splines. Steel freehub if you don't want it to happen againIn both cases cassettes were ultegra 6800
How tight are you doing the lock ring?
If it's tight enough the sprocket will move once, and stay there. If it's not, or if it's slathered in grease (not really needed) they'll move and jiggle and fret continuously.
Cheers for that. Won't be making that mistake again.
Oh, what hub is it? There are all sorts of grade of aluminum, and some are soft as butter, others aren't.
I'd not be worrying about the ultegra, half the protour use them on lightweight aluminium hubs, with no issues.
Tight. No grease, just dropped cassette on.
Tight?
Useful information. To torque spec?
Or one grunt?
its a common problem, and not solved by setting lock ring to torque, or using anti-seize, grease or nothing
and an aluminium alloy freehub is a very inexpensive way of making a wheelset weight competitive
the best solution with aluminium alloy freehubs was American classic with their steel leading edge strip, but they have this patented
I regularly had this problem with my Hope Hoops road wheels, using Ultegra cassettes. The normal issue is the cassette gouging the body and getting stuck when you want to remove it for cleaning. The longer term issue was creaking under load, and noisy gears as the shifting patterns (which Shimano spent years working on) become out of sync due to cogs being out of alignment.
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Hope were great and replaced the aluminium body FOC twice. On the third time they gave me their steel body - 150 grammes heavier than the aluminium, actually very noticeable on a light weight road bike
My current road wheels (Shimano RS81 C24) are just over 1500 grammes but use a steel body which is impressive. Dura Ace have a titanium alloy body to shave more weight without compromising durability.
It's a PITA, but kinda one of the things you just have to accept. Either that or use a steel freehub (heavier, Hope offer them as an option, shimano are steel by default), or a freehub with steel reinforcement on the front of the splines (I think Novatec do them), or just accept it, you shouldn't really need to remove the cassette every month, and jiggling it off once a year isn't such a big issue.
[edit, 35 seconds late!]
You can do a diy bodge of the Steel strip thing, there is (usually) enough play in a shimano spline to slide a straightened out staple between the drive flank of the cassette and it's mating face on the freehub.
Only need to do two or three and it's fine.
Cheers thanks for clearing it up in my mind. As said only reason for removing this time was to return wheel for another issue. According to blurb the hub has a steel spline which id have imagined would help. Confess I don't torque it up, but it's 'German tight'.