Stumpjumper Bearing...
 

Subscribe now and choose from over 30 free gifts worth up to £49 - Plus get £25 to spend in our shop

[Closed] Stumpjumper Bearings, when to replace?

31 Posts
16 Users
0 Reactions
460 Views
Posts: 9232
Full Member
Topic starter
 

I've had my Stumpjumper FSR Comp for a few years now and never felt the need to replace the bearings. How do I know when they need replacing and any recommendations regarding where to get a reasonable kit from?

PS: this isn't an invite for Kaesae / Airbourne 10101 / Katec Bikes to wade in with opinions.

edit: previous comment on Kaesae possibly a bit strong!


 
Posted : 15/05/2011 6:53 am
Posts: 0
Free Member
 

Did you see Kaesae's vid. I don't think it's a bad place to start. My bearings were in a mess, though I didn't realise how bad until I stripped the back end down.( I just thought my bike creaked a bit)

Night and day difference with the back end now after bearing replacement 🙂


 
Posted : 15/05/2011 7:05 am
Posts: 17
Free Member
 

lift the rear of the bike up gently via the back of the saddle and lower it back down there is any extra movement change bushings/bearings


 
Posted : 15/05/2011 8:04 am
Posts: 19
Free Member
 

duntstick did you notice any play in the rear end or just the noise?


 
Posted : 15/05/2011 8:11 am
Posts: 0
Free Member
 

My bike creaked under pedal pressure ,that's what first got me looking for the problem. Also the shock packed down when riding rocky trails, almost as if I was riding a hardtail.

I thought maybe shock problems, but now realise that the movement in the back end has just been hampered by bearings.

It's really active now and I have to dial in more rebound on the shock to slow it down a bit. Play in the back end could be your shock bushings maybe, try lifting the bike by the back of the saddle.It may be just that.


 
Posted : 15/05/2011 8:18 am
Posts: 0
Free Member
 

Refurbed the wifes 07 Stumpjumper. Picked up a complete set off ebay and they've lasted 18 months so far without complaint. I have the 08 and its started getting a bit creaky over the past couple of weeks, still trying to decide if BB or bearings but for £30 a set may as well replace the bearings first.

My "technique" was simply a collection of appropriate sized sockets, a bench vice, and plenty of penetrating oil.

I'd recommend doing them every couple of years regardless, also means less chance of them being REALLY difficult to get out.


 
Posted : 15/05/2011 8:19 am
Posts: 9232
Full Member
Topic starter
 

So non branded eBay specials are okay then?


 
Posted : 15/05/2011 8:54 am
Posts: 0
Free Member
 

Have worked fine for me (but then Im certainly no expert). The "official" kits are around the £40 if you can get hold of them. When I was replacing everyone was showing out of stock. From memory paid around £25 off ebay and as I say, 18 months and still going strong (light to moderate use).


 
Posted : 15/05/2011 9:09 am
Posts: 0
Free Member
 

You can buy cheapo bearings from ebay, however they will burn out quite quickly, then you will have to buy another set and fit another set as well.

The maintenance time offsets any money saved buying cheaper bearings, also watch out for the wheel drop out pivot, there are two bearings sitting back to back with a lip. So you can't just press them right through.

Not the hardest of jobs but a lot can go wrong, good luck!


 
Posted : 19/05/2011 11:35 am
Posts: 16
Free Member
 

My bike creaked under pedal pressure

That's exactly what I've got with my Stumpy! 😕

Been putting off taking it to the LBS, but this thread has made up my mind.


 
Posted : 19/05/2011 12:07 pm
Posts: 6980
Free Member
 

I'd recommend doing them every couple of years regardless, also means less chance of them being REALLY difficult to get out

particularly the chainstay ones IME


 
Posted : 19/05/2011 12:21 pm
Posts: 0
Free Member
 

@ kael, whats best way to remove dropout bearing? may come in usefull for the future when mine neds done 😉

edit: without bearing pullers etc


 
Posted : 19/05/2011 12:24 pm
Posts: 7556
Full Member
 

My 2005 Stumpy used to ghost shift from sideways movement when the bearings or shock bushes needed changed.

Lifting the bike a littel with the back of the saddle is the best way to check for play in most full-sus bikes


 
Posted : 19/05/2011 12:25 pm
Posts: 0
Free Member
 

Stumpys usually do the DU bush with the rest of the bearings lasting pretty well. If you feel slight movement when you lift the saddle put your fingers over the bottom part of the shock and linkage and check if that is where the play is coming from. DU bush is a simple cheap fix, I do about one a year.

Another quick check is to undo your shock from the back end and feel the movement of the back end. Pretty obvious if there is a bush sticking etc.


 
Posted : 19/05/2011 12:37 pm
Posts: 0
Free Member
 

I have quite a few bearing pullers, so I use them, however this would be a good time to go over techniques, I have a 2005 specialized enduro back end that I use for testing my odd ball idea's on.

From what I understand of it you can use a small screw driver and tap it around the circumference at different spots.

I used to do this about 4 years ago, all you need is a vice.
Standard bearings.

Why don't we all just work together on the best way to do it.

One last thing once you check to make sure that the bearings are sitting flush, try and push them back out with your fingers. If you are able to push them out then they aren't tight enough and the housing is worn.

Use some kind of sealant to take up the extra space!


 
Posted : 19/05/2011 1:30 pm
Posts: 0
Free Member
 

Thanks kael! extremely helpfull 😀


 
Posted : 19/05/2011 5:08 pm
Posts: 0
Free Member
 

double post 😳


 
Posted : 19/05/2011 5:13 pm
Posts: 3223
Free Member
 

My main pivot bearings constantly needed fettling with as there was play. I then took them out and the seal was shot and bearnigs falling uot - looked screwed. I bought a set off ebay, for £25
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=130501883340&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT

Fitted them using a vice and socket set. All except the horst link which I was worried about removing as there isnt much metal to seat the socket on, so I repacked those using a greasegun.

Annoying as the frame was only 1 year old and looked after, although ridden hard and through the winter. I'm now building a HT for winter use 🙂


 
Posted : 19/05/2011 5:47 pm
Posts: 0
Free Member
 

Superfli that's one of my bearing kits 😀 those should last a while.
If you're pressing bearing in, use the old bearings. perfect size for a drift and it makes it very difficult to damage the new bearings.


 
Posted : 21/05/2011 12:16 pm
Posts: 0
Free Member
 

Hey!

I've got the tooling and equipment and am ready to try and make up some kind of kit to service the specialized frames, does anyone want ot give me a hand with testing out the fitting kits once they're ready ❓


 
Posted : 01/06/2011 12:14 pm
Posts: 457
Free Member
 

My brother would be happy to test. He's about to strip his 07 SJ for powder coating.


 
Posted : 01/06/2011 12:58 pm
Posts: 16363
Free Member
 

I've got two spesh frames due a service, happy to help with testing


 
Posted : 01/06/2011 1:01 pm
Posts: 9
Free Member
 

Yes please. Have an '04 Enduro that is still on its original bearings!


 
Posted : 01/06/2011 1:17 pm
Posts: 0
Free Member
 

That's great 😀

The hardest problem is the wheel drop out pivots and the double blind housing they use, however I think I have a way around it.

The rest of the kit should be simple enough, pressing them back in will require some kind of solution for keeping the bearing centred.

I will see about sorting something over the weekend, any one who wants to be part of this why not bounce me over an email and I'll fill you in on what we will be using.

Don't worry I will test everything on the spare parts of frames that I have here!

Bigyin you really should check those bearings, that's a long time and you risk damaging the frame, I would take the shock off! remove the two aluminium bolts at the wheel drop out pivots, lift up the seat stay making sure to catch the 4x spacers that separate the bearings seat/chain stay pivot.

One you have them apart you can rotate the bearings there with your fingers and move the chain stay and the linkage plate individually and get a feel for the bearings, upto you if you check but I would.

Hopefully speak soon.


 
Posted : 02/06/2011 8:12 am
Posts: 9
Free Member
 

Oddly enough my rear end is in bits at the moment awaiting some main pivot bearings. The originals had developed some play to they're out. The link and chainstay bearings are actually ok. They all turn with a little bit of resistance and no play. I've re-greased them in the past and this seems to have helped. I guess I've put off replacing them as im afraid of buggering up the chainstay ones!


 
Posted : 02/06/2011 2:51 pm
Posts: 0
Free Member
 

Yeah, I would wait until I perfect the tools and technique, then you can use what ever I find will do the job, that said I just had some wine so I'm going to go through to my workshop and have a play about.

Don't worry this shouldn't be too tricky 😀


 
Posted : 02/06/2011 4:36 pm
Posts: 9
Free Member
 

With or without wine? What grade??? lol


 
Posted : 02/06/2011 5:01 pm
Posts: 0
Free Member
 

Grade 3 wine, mixed with grade v4 goji berry tea+honey and a few other things, custom modified beverage of course!


 
Posted : 02/06/2011 5:23 pm
Posts: 0
Free Member
 

Slight set back in the tool kits unfortunately, although they are ready, I will now have to have them produced in larger numbers.

However I will have some for the riders who have agreed to test them by the end of next week.


 
Posted : 05/06/2011 3:41 pm
Posts: 0
Free Member
 

Blah blah blah, i can also make them blah blah blah, look at MY linky look at my linky i can also grease bearings fwap fwap fwap

🙂 😀 🙁 😮 😯 😕 ➡ 💡


 
Posted : 05/06/2011 3:47 pm
Posts: 9
Free Member
 

Lol, handbags at dawn!


 
Posted : 05/06/2011 4:12 pm
Posts: 0
Free Member
 

[img] [/img]


 
Posted : 05/06/2011 4:16 pm