I've got a brand new pair of Arch 29er wheels here, fitted by the wheelbuilder with yellow tape and valves. On one wheel, even after tightening the valve lockring with pliers, air is still p1ssing out around the valve hole. Other than that, the tyre (WTB Nano) seats really well. On the other wheel, I can't get the Racing Ralph tyre to inflate at all (have tried using washing up liquid, no joy).
Coming from UST on my other bike, that is a piece of cake compared to this faff. Is it always such a hit & miss affair with Stans stuff? Any suggestions to help sort these out before I do something I swore I'd never do again & buy inner tubes?
I have done this twice in the past (with rim strip versions) - tightening the valves too much esp on the rim strip knackers the seal - are you sure You haven't overtightened to valve or knackered the seal?
hmm I wouldn't have thought so, I've only tightened them a bit beyond the limit of hand-tightening. Can't see any deformation in the rubber seal.
what about the seating of the valve in the yelow tape - have you got a clean edge?
http://www.notubes.com/movietape.php
What valves are you using? I had the leaky valve issue with my Spesh Roval's but the Stans valve + tape works great on my Flow rim wheels, there are different models of the Stans valve though so maybe some don't seat properly in certain rims? You def don't need to tighten it more than finger tight though.
They look like Olympic valves, the whole lot was supplied by the same place as a package so they should be the correct ones. Tape around valve hole looks ok, where it's been cut it's folded down into the hole, seems tidy.
I did rather have my suspicions about Stans stuff, it just seems like a far more faffy design than UST. Are those Stans rimstrips likely to solve this issue or should I just give up & stick some tubes in? Really need to have a reliable solution as this bike will be doing multi-day long distance stuff. Cheers.
The tape should be cut off to the edge of the hole, not folded down into it. Maybe that's the problem. Otherwise the tape should be tight as a [insert euphemism here] over the holes. It shouldn't have any folds or rucks at all.
When you've got a nice smooth edge on the yellow tape around the valve hole dip the valve in sealant before fitting.
i silicon sealanted my valve hole then stuck the valve through and cleaned the end on my 355s
once you get into the swing they are not too much faff mark you will love them !
how are the arches ? ive found out after demandign a recount and a third party inspector i have a 32 hole hub and can thus have arches and not be stuck with flows.
Stans website says the tape should not go into the hole - should be flush?
Thanks guys, will persevere tomorrow!
What they said above - you need a small round file to remove the yellow tape neatly from around the hole. I had a set of Flow rims that had tape pre-installed and they hadn't done this and they leaked loads.
Once neatly removed they sealed perfectly around the valve.
Had similar experiences.
UST rims - never any trouble.
Stans - Arch front was fine as was Flow rear, but flow front a nightmare. None were as easy as UST rims & tyres though.
Mate's 355s caused fun with air apparently coming out from round the valve. no amount of tightening sorted it out. Eventually the penny dropped - there was a small cut in the rim tape that was leaking air which was then escaping round the valve. The valve was seated fine, so just because air is coming out from round it doesn't mean the valve's wrong. A new run of rim tape solved it - and the tape was also as fitted by the wheelbuilder. Worth checking yours?
Stans Flow here - round file in the valve hole a la video. Easy as pie to inflate and seat once you do that and just follow the videos.
there was a small cut in the rim tape that was leaking air which was then escaping round the valve.
I had this happen to me after hitting a large rock while out on a ride.
Couldn't for the life of me work out why air was pissing out the valve hole until I got home and got chance to have a closer look at the rim.
i had same problem with 355 and olympc valves - had to tighten them scary tight
seen some valves with little rubber o-rngs above the rim (so the lockring squeezes down on it) anyone know what make they are?
i had same problem with 355 and olympc valves - had to tighten them scary tight
On the flip side I had zero problems with them done up pretty lightly.
Well I've removed the tape in the hole with a round file, but air is still pissing out. Tbh, comparing the design of the stans valve seal with a UST valve, I'm not surprised I'm getting problems. Again, the UST design just seems a lot better, with a far more secure fit, rather than just relying on an inaccurately moulded bit of rubber to deform to fill the hole. meh, can't believe I have to resort to silicon sealant to get these things to do what they're meant to.
... can't believe I have to resort to silicon sealant to get these things to do what they're meant to.
Never had that work for me. Usually a desperate attempt to tackle the valve which has never been a problem. Have you looked for any minute split in the rim tape elsewhere which will let air out? This will almost inevitably come out at the valve even if the leak is far away.
Hmm all I did was put the tape on bodge the valve in and pump up job done this goes for several sets of Stans
Erm - he's not using a rim strip? Just a valve and Yellow spoke tape 😯
Try pulling the tyre edge in the rim out using a tyre lever then have a go at pumping up, similar thing happened to me when I first put my tyres on pumped them up then I let them down again to pull part of the tyre off the rim to put a couple of scoops of sealant in, when I came to pump the tyre back up they would not inflate so I reseated the tyre using a tyre lever and they went up a treat.
Erm - He's got a problem with the valve not the tyre seat? 😯
Common guys read the OP?
[now leaves thread shaking head and mumbling]
lol well two problems really...one tyre seats ok but pisses air from the valve, the other won't even seat. I'm focusing on the one that will seat for now, as frankly I'm already losing the will to live with this thing and the other tyre looks like a harder proposition. Tempted just to rip the tape off and start again, but you'd think a pro would know how to install this stuff. In the meantime, I've ordered some inner tubes, which is very annoying as I firkin hate using tubes, but I suspect that's how this is going to end.
By the way, what's the purpose of the rimstrip thing that Stans also sell? Might I get more luck using one of those?
Rim strip is for use with non tubeless tyres as it effectively tightens the bead up and removes some of the fresh air (wel, smelling of fish air when using Stans) Some non tubeless tyres will be virtually impossible to inflate without the rim strip as there is a very slack seal
Never had any problems incidentally with Stans and have done countless sets including road wheel conversions.
Check your tape is perfectly tight and smooth and that all tape is removed from the valve hoel and you should be good.
If you can't get the tyre to seat up where the valve is, loosen the lock ring on the valve then push it up into the tyre, then pull it back down agin and lock it up with your fingers (it should never need anything more).
Cheers Duc. I'm starting to suspect the rim tape hasn't been applied very well. There's the odd air bubble here & there...though not sure if that's a problem. Got a couple more things to try & then I'll just rip the tape off & start again.
foxyrider - Member
Erm - He's got a problem with the valve not the tyre seat?Common guys read the OP?
[now leaves thread shaking head and mumbling
😳
Sorry, I got carried away after successfully sorting out my Tubeless problem 😆
I lost a valve that head a square shaped bottom that fitted the rim, and only had a stans valve that was round, but it seems ok.
As far as fitting the tape goes it should from my experience be a fairly "physical process" if done correctly as you really need to stretch the hell out of it to make sure it seats. I can't do more than two road wheels in a day as it hurts the thumb (I use to flatten the tape down) too much otherwise (although I have broken that one 14 times).
It is much easier to tape the wheel when the tape and wheel rim are waremer (i.e. in the kitchen rather than the garage)
For what its worth I have never succesfully managed to get it fitted in a wheel jig like the Stans guys manage and can't see myself ever doing it.
There's the odd air bubble here & there...though not sure if that's a problem
That's a problem. You're supposed to key the rim with wet and dry, degrease it, and then pull the tape very tight when applying. There really shouldn't be any bubbles.
The air is probably coming out through a spoke hole, but I'd still give a go at sealing the valve.
Also once taped don't go straight to tubeless - fit a tyre and tube and then inflate it over night to faltten out the taoe - I guess your wheel builder probably hasn't done this and that could be the issue
If its a 29er rim and you are stuck for tubes a 26 will just about do the job here if you need.
If all of that fails where are you? I'll sort the damn things out (its starting to become a challenge!) - as I can't ride my bike through injury I'm having to console myself wuith all the mechanicals at the moment - having done the equivalent of 5 builds in the last two weeks I'm runniong out of things to do on my own
One final thing - what width tape was used ?
There are some people who say use 21mm on the Arch's and teh Stans website is wrong - personally I'd go with the Manufacturer and JRA's recommendation and go for 25mm
(one day I'll fit this all into one post too !)
Also once taped don't go straight to tubeless - fit a tyre and tube and then inflate it over night to faltten out the tape
Yes it will if the tape is put on correctly.