Sram Type 2.1 VS Ty...
 

[Closed] Sram Type 2.1 VS Type 2.0 rear mechs hmmmmmmmmmm

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Anyone shed any light on what Sram have fixed/tweaked here

http://www.bike-discount.de/en/buy/sram-x.9-type-2.1-rear-derailleur-10-speed-medium-grey-263004?currency=3&delivery_country=190&gclid=CNyswui56cECFWoJwwodhrAAqQ

VS

http://www.bike-discount.de/en/buy/x.9-type-2-rear-derailleur-10-speed-short-grey-54767

The only visual difference is the print on the "roller bearing clutch" type 2.1 vs type 2.

The official Sram site now says 2.1, but all the documents and click through's go to the older Type 2 blurb.

https://www.sram.com/sram/mountain/products/sram-x9-type-21-10-speed-rear-derailleur

I'd consider getting a Type 2.1 from Germany if its worth it as no stock on the UK sites.


 
Posted : 07/11/2014 10:43 pm
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Oh yeah, I know!

They are specifically for 29er's.


 
Posted : 08/11/2014 8:09 am
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😯 😯 😆


 
Posted : 08/11/2014 8:42 am
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Do they still need the clutch retightening after every few rides and develop loads of play in every pivot after 6 months, if so I'll stick with my zee !


 
Posted : 08/11/2014 9:12 am
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Type 2.1 from Germany arrived today, 3 day shipping, bike24, £30 cheaper than UK and 2 months advance on UK getting stock :mrgreen:

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Posted : 13/11/2014 10:16 pm
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So..... what's the difference? Looks like you've been trying to find out for ages 😉


 
Posted : 13/11/2014 10:35 pm
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kimbers - Member
Do they still need the clutch retightening after every few rides and develop loads of play in every pivot after 6 months, if so I'll stick with my zee !

Never heard of the clutch tightening thing at all on mine or any of the ones my mate sells lots of. Operator error 😉 ?


 
Posted : 13/11/2014 11:00 pm
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I've bought several X7 & X9 type 2's for various mtb / cross builds, one thing I have noticed is the clutch operation isn't consistent - some the clutch operation is very noticeable on others not so much, & some have play before the clutch works, some don't. I'd be interested in if Type 2.1 is more consistent.

I've tried adjusting the tension through the large star nut (hidden by the plastic cover) which can make the movement stiffer, maybe take it out & add bit of threadlock to help keep it in place?

Somebody also queried if a full suss bike is more likely to wear the clutch out with constant movement, I've found the riveted cage wears out first anyway.

Despite these issues I've persevered with SRAM & Type 2 they are still better at keeping the chain & reducing slap than standard 10 speed.


 
Posted : 13/11/2014 11:31 pm