Forum menu
Got these on a couple of bikes last year and really like the feel and power of them. Just two snags, which I can't find referenced via Google - but I bet some of you lot will know...
1. I'm finding the bite point is moving in a bit too much towards the handlebar on the Guide RS on my enduro bike. Even with fresh pads installed. They don't seem to self-adjust like Shimano.
2. The rear is losing all-out power, so won't lock up. Have tried different pads and rotor to no avail. Feels consistent otherwise. I don't have a bleed kit for them yet, to try that.
Your thoughts are welcome.
🙂
Bleed them. 🙂
I had the first issue - bought the cheap bleed kit from epicbleedsolutions, back in tip top condition now. I really like them.
AS above, I've had my Guide Brakes for over 15 months and not touched them and noticed the braking point was wondering.
Bought bleed kit from ebay, watched the vids on youtube several times over and then bled the brakes and all is good again!
OK OK, I'll get a bleed kit.
Anyone had the same issue with lack of outright power issue on Guides though?
Always had Shimano brakes (Deore & XT) which have been excellent.
The guides performance are good, not had any issues with stopping when riding on the Mendips and BPW but they are just not as good as the XT brakes. And the guide brakes themselves just feel cheap when you handle them.
They came on the bike when I bought it. When they actally start to play up as parts are made of plastic I will ditch them without any thought.But I'll get my money's worth out of them first.
If your having output power issues, bleed them thoroughly just in case there's some trapped air in there. Hopefully that will do the trick.
Good luck!
I would say to bleed them. if it was mineral fluid I would think of something else but as its dot fluid it sounds like it needs a bleed. Your issues are likely to be related to moisture and the loss of power is simply compression of moisture in the hydraulic system
Until you bleed them, pop the wheel out, pump the brake lever a few times until you can only just slot the rotor back in through the pad gap, works a treat.