[Closed] sportive geometry road bikes, am i missing any?

Focus Ergoride? 2012 model got good reviews.

Genesis equilibrium
Scott something or other (CR1?)

Scott CR1

Cannondale Synapse .

Spesh sectuer - cheaper roubaix

Look 566

BMC Gran Fondo

wilier gran turismo
colnago ace

mock not Kaffandbak

Ribble have about 73 different models with sportive in the title in both carbon & alloy.

One of the Bianchi C2C range?

I noticed your question on Bikeradar...

I think the actual, real, authentic difference is not very much at all. Essentially 'sportive' geometry is all about a slightly taller headtube, and not really much else.

The thing is that you get used to the bike you ride, so you would get used to a slightly taller headtube, or get used to a slightly less tall headtube over time.

My advice would be to buy the bike that makes you go 'Ooooh.'

You've got to love it, to want to ride when you are tired or fed up or it's raining, or your legs hurt; so get the one you really like...

Ritchey road logic. http://www.charliethebikemonger.com/ritchey-wcs-road-logic-frameset-3394-p.asp

All the ones on your list sound like they are alloy or maybe carbon. If you are looking for 100 mile comfort I would look a steel or ti.

Alloy bikes tend to come alive when you are belting it out, but are a bit harsh. After 70 miles I am not belting it out, I am surviving, and wondering what neck cramps are doing in cycling?

But there ain't much choice in nice steel until you dig deep.

[img] [/img]

Ritchey road logic. http://www.charliethebikemonger.com/ritchey-wcs-road-logic-frameset-3394-p.asp

All the ones on your list sound like they are alloy or maybe carbon. If you are looking for 100 mile comfort I would look a steel or ti.

Carbon can be made to give soft ride characteristics , the Specialized Roubaix and Trek Domane are designed to flex and take out some of the road chatter and many races over cobbles have been won on them , Paris Roubaix 3 of the last 5 years on a Roubaix and this year on a Domane .

Next bike for me is going to be something like a roubaix or domane when they put discs on them

Felt do some nice ones - [url= http://www.saddleback.co.uk/Z_Series_Road_Sportive ]Felt Z Series Road Sportive[/url]

[quote=Ramsey Neil ]
Carbon can be made to give soft ride characteristics ,
That. There's a world of (comfortable) difference between the Focus Cayo I had and the Cube GTC Agree I now ride. A good frame designer can use the characteristics of carbon to make a frame stiff where it needs to be and compliant where that helps.

Same with my Cannondale Six and Wilier Gran Turismo - the Wilier has by far the smoother ride, and I thought the 'dale was already good.

[i]If you are looking for 100 mile comfort I would look a steel or ti.[/i]

Or Carbon.

[i]After 70 miles I am not belting it out, I am surviving, and wondering what neck cramps are doing in cycling?[/i]

This has nothing to do with material, and everything to do with fit.

This kind of faux-retro nonsense is the sort of shit that only belongs in a Rapha catalogue.

Looks 675.. Could be a bit marmite, but it ride lovely. I took one out the other day as it happens and it's a really nice ride, ok so I didn't crack more than 8 miles on it but what I was able to do was ride some cobbles. Nice, stiff, comfy are the impressions I got from it.

[img][url= http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3823/8756095313_2b82d8e3b3.jp g" target="_blank">http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3823/8756095313_2b82d8e3b3.jp g"/> [/img][/url] [url= http://www.flickr.com/photos/65239715@N05/8756095313/ ]image[/url] by [url= http://www.flickr.com/people/65239715@N05/ ]bikebouy[/url], on Flickr[/img]

Next bike for me is going to be something like a roubaix or domane when they put discs on them

I'm pretty sure that they do a Roubaix with discs already .

nickc - That is one hell of a misquote.

You left out the bit in the middle about alloy being stiff and claim shit!

"looking for long ride comfort"

If I had the budget... I would put this( or something like this ) on my list... http://salsacycles.com/bikes/colossal_ti

[img] [/img]

Love my CR1 😀

[url= http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7285/8741325118_a8359ef959_c.jp g" target="_blank">http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7285/8741325118_a8359ef959_c.jp g"/> [/img][/url]
[url= http://www.flickr.com/photos/87601462@N07/8741325118/ ]Fred whitton hardknott 2013[/url] by [url= http://www.flickr.com/people/87601462@N07/ ]Stufive[/url], on Flickr

A couple of other things to dwell on regarding day long comfort

Cinelli make gel inserts to run under the bar tape, isolates you from the vibes. Also i find the diameter is just nicer as i have big hands.

Consider 25mm tyres, a small additional weight for more comfort, especially on back roads. My old mechanic told me that tests had found 25mm to be faster than 23mm, but that is no doubt a can of worms. But it will also protect the wheels from potholes a bit better , and the larger contact should help in bad weather.

Arse butter.
[b]
To do a good time on a 100 mile sportive, you have to finish the 100 mile sportive. [/b]
Something as simple as a puncture will ruin it. So I use schwalbe tyres with some sort of protection.

I recently went through the same deliberations as OP. I noticed that most (if not all) brands now do a "sportive" model. It almost seemed to me as if this is the latest fad with road bikes (now that everyone has a crosser!) As mentioned earlier they mainly have a longer head tube, also the off-the-shelf models all come with compacts and 25mm tyres. They all seemed pretty much of a muchness to be honest.

I went for a 2012 Cannondale Synapse hi-mod carbon in the end (mainly because it was almost half price at Paul's, although the Cannondale sizing does suit me well). FWIW I find it noticeably more comfy over bumps (including cobbles) than my steel cross bike (which in itself is a very nice ride).

All i can add from someone who had never ridden a proper road bike 4 months ago, to now having done 5x 100 miles and 2 x 150 miles in the last coupe of months in training for 250 miles in 24 hours next month is:

- Bike fit, whether it be one in a shop or someone who knows what they are talking about, doesn't matter what bike you have if it is set up all wrong, you are spending a lot of time in one position and it is about being as efficient as possible.
- Good quality bib shorts and Assos minty ar*se lard.
- Shoes with a good quality insole not the thin unsupportive things that come with them, these are great: http://www.esoles.com/
- This bar tape is fantastic, and easy to apply as you can re-wrap it: http://www.bicyclechain.co.uk/productdetails.asp?productid=11314&gclid=CJbew9qlpLcCFVMbtAodoR0AVw
- Eat lots (and make it things you enjoy) and keep drinking!!

Slightly left-field, but as a Spesh Roubaix owner, I've been amazed how comfortable my Pinnacle Arkrose 3 CX has proved to be.

Some 28mm tyres, better bar tape, would makes a nice sportive/audax bike, and takes mudguards and a rack

Maybe not quite so harshly put but I have to agree with nick to some extent. A bike with the right geo and a good design will be good for comfort almost regardless of the material. I'd particularly note that carbon is often much better for comfort than many steel bikes, particularly at the more reasonable prices where steel often lacks any real stereotypical steel feel.

IME also, a decent aluminium frame with carbon seat stays (and ideally chainstays) will often give a noticeably smoother ride than some stereotypical aluminium frames.

Charlie's suggestion of gel inserts under the bar tape is a good one though.

I have a 2006 Roubaix, which is pretty comfortable and obviously vertically flexy, judging by the way the deep Roubaix tyres, when fitted, have scored the underside of the brake stay!

I have a Spesh Tricross disc as a winter bike/tourer/family rides bike and despite being in stiffer aluminium it's actually more comfortable over long distances than the Roubaix thanks to an even more upright position.

I recently tried a neighbour's 2012 carbon Orbea and was amazed at the improvement in acceleration and hill-climbing stiffness that 6 years of development has brought to carbon bikes.

I was in the same situation some time ago. Personally I would maybe test a coupe, if you have the chance.

In relation to carbon vs other materials, a good carbon frame can be designed to be more comfortable than any other material, so don't let that put you off. There is also some tuning you can do with the right seat post and seat without great expense.

I am personally a fan of cube bikes, I have tried against some larger more well known bike models and I have found them to be excellent value for money in terms of spec and weight. In rid quality and handling they are also a winner and in my opinion out handle my road bikes which have cost double.

Also in terms if sportive geometry, I thought about this before too. But in the end I went for a regular race geometry. I did this as I want to have the aggressive position if I want, you can just put an extra spacer to raise the handlebars if you are worried. Also, I don't know what sportives you will be riding, but those I do have a great deal of climbing, 70% of the time or more is on the hoods.

I would take a good look at cube agree, don't know much about the others, but in general good bikes. German quality and engineering, but you are not paying huge amounts for the name.

Good luck!

cannondale synapse

I've got an alloy one and it's as comfy as a steel frame and fits big tyres

Clubbed... I agree.
You need to get all the elements right. Get the fit right, geo right, and the material. Throw in components, food, good riding mates etc etc
And yes there are some dead dull and stiff steel frames around.
I was not knocking carbon, I was referring specifically to alloy, as in an entirely alloy frame. It certainly would not be my choice.

Some good advice up there. The material is only half the battle, geometry makes a big difference to comfort as well.

Some 28mm tyres, better bar tape, would makes a nice sportive/audax bike, and takes mudguards and a rack

Personally I wouldn't want 28mm tyres near a bike that I was doing long (100+ miles) on. Winter bike has them on and it feels like a big heavy lump. Get some lighter 25 mm tyres on and it feels great.

Shoes with a good quality insole not the thin unsupportive things that come with them, these are great

As for bike, I ride a On One ti 'cross bike with 28mm tyres and full mudguards. In a way its overkill for a Sportive (built for Audax), but I bumped into the Evans Ride-It sportive in Langholm yesterday. Roads were filthy after saturday's rain and I certainly had a cleaner dry ass than anyone else. Wet ass = sore ass after not so many miles...

I bought a Planet X sportive bike with a Lynsky Ti frame and Dura-Ace for £2k a few years ago and it is fantastic 🙂

I did a two day 180 mile sportive event last weekend on it and felt pretty good throughout. My old Klein alu bike was great for shorter distances but harsh once past the 60 mile mark.

Unfortunately Planet X are no longer offering this model so think of this as a recommendation for titanium.

whatnobeer - Member

Personally I wouldn't want 28mm tyres near a bike that I was doing long (100+ miles) on. Winter bike has them on and it feels like a big heavy lump. Get some lighter 25 mm tyres on and it feels great.

i don't know, my 28mm continental four-seasons are only 30grams (or so) heavier than the 25mm versions.

(i'll weigh them when i can be bothered - but they're not 'heavy lumps')

and at 10psi less than the 25's they replaced they're very comfy on sheffield's completely-bolloxed roads.

i suppose there may be some negligable aero disadvantage...

Personally I wouldn't want 28mm tyres near a bike that I was doing long (100+ miles) on

I too run 28mm GP4seasons, on wider rimes (Velocity A23). Some of the roads round here are terrible, and they make a fantastic difference.

i run 32mm conti gatorskin front and hardshell rear.
me and a mate on 25mm schwalbe luganos did a roll down test from 15mph on a slight downward gradient (bike track on an old railway line)
we went for about 2.5 miles before we could actually notice any difference more than about 3" (he was ahead by 3")
i could make that up in 50 yards by tucking in behind someone.
both riders same weight, both on hoods, all tyres at correct pressure.
outcome of this, he now has 28mm tyres.
i will say though, the 32mm are a bit overkill, my next ones will be 28mm.
also, we were both 23 stone at the time.
his bike is a 2012 cannondale caad8, and it only just takes 28s.

Charlie, selective maybe, misquote? Don't think so, unless I got it wrong and you weren't trying to suggest that frames made out of a material other than steel can be comfortable?

I would echo some of the above. For long ride comfort, this is my order of importance:

1. Bike fit, position of controls etc
2. Bike fit, position of controls etc
3. Bike fit, position of controls etc
4. Bike fit, position of controls etc
5. Bike fit, position of controls etc
6. Good shorts and road specific gloves - NOT ones that have loads of padding, in fact my favourite gloves are just double leather palms
7. Good shoes
8. Triple chainset (or appropriate gearing). One decent climb spent heaving on the pedals can wreck you for the next 90 miles, and you could've got up just as fast spinning comfortably in the little ring. Don't listen to the wannabe hard men.
9. The right saddle, at the right angle. I'd definitely go with Specialized and their arse-measuring thing. Brilliant idea.
10. Shallow-section rims. Mavic open Pro/Sport etc - much more comfortable than v sections ime and seemed to make more difference to road vibration than anything else I tried.

Road bike fit is pretty complex. There's bar drop shape, drop depth, front-to-back sizing, and then there's where you put the hoods AND the angle at which you have the bars set, on top of stem length and height etc.

Oh and make sure your saddle's not too high. I thought I had it bang on and I overtook an old codger who stayed with me for a short while. He said 'your saddle's too high, your pelvis is rocking from side to side'. So I tried it lower, and it felt really wierd at first but he was right on the money. A slightly lower saddle also helps your neck...

FWIW my bike is a 'racy' carbon job but I can happily do long rides on it. I have a Spesh Allez carbon post with the inserts, no idea if it helps or not really, and 23mm tyres.

Meh... I'd replace 1-6 with riding a bike you're used to. I've various bikes of various shapes and wildly differing setups and the one that's most comfortable on a long ride is almost always the one I've put most miles in on recently.

Meh... I'd replace 1-6 with riding a bike you're used to. I've various bikes of various shapes and wildly differing setups and the one that's most comfortable on a long ride is almost always the one I've put most miles in on recently.

Why not set them up so they're all comfy?

I agree with Molgrips except for the triple chainset thing. A compact is what real sportive riders use!

Been thinking about this question too as I'd like to join the dark side sometime soon. The Vitus stuff through CRC looks gorgeous and superb value for money too.

Love my SPA CYCLES Ti audax bike. They fit it to you (if you can get to the shop) with stem, bar with, control position, crank length etc, all for just £1500.

I picked it up one week and rode lejog on it the next week 🙂

I'm not sure you can find the 'right' control position in one session. Took me 18 months of learning how I wanted the bike to be.

I was looking at a Scott CR1 3 years ago and took the brave descision to go with an Addict.

I can do 80 miles + a day and its comfy so on that basis try a Scott Foil and leave the CR1 till you are a bit older 🙂

i don't know, my 28mm continental four-seasons are only 30grams (or so) heavier than the 25mm versions.

(i'll weigh them when i can be bothered - but they're not 'heavy lumps')

and at 10psi less than the 25's they replaced they're very comfy on sheffield's completely-bolloxed roads.

i suppose there may be some negligable aero disadvantage...

Might just of been the 28mm tyres on the bike in question, but the difference between the 25mm Krylion and what ever was on it at the time (I think Gatorskins?) is about 100g a tyre and it felt really sluggish. If I'm doing 100 miles I want to make things as easy as possible and really the roads aren't anywhere near bad enough anywhere I've ridden to justify 28mm tyres for the road.

Sounds pretty much like my Condor Fratrello. That was spec'd / built for day rides - compact gearing, shallow rims, 700x28's, full length guards.

I know it's not something that makes a lot of appearances ... 🙄 but have a rummage about in my flickr-stream for pictures. The only real criticism is that I occasionally catch myself out on the toe-overlap when turning the bars at slow speeds, but that's down to me, rather than the bike.

I'd have a Singular Osprey on my list too - actually I'm almost certain I've have gone that way if the timing had worked out differently.

I quite like the Salsa Casseroll too, but I think they are 'retired' now - might be a bit indifferent feeling, but maybe consider a Surly Pacer (and/or if you can find one, a Soma Smoothie (or an ES) too?

... and yeah, ok, I'll admit to a materials bias in my list. 😉

Sportive geometry, comfy tyres and triples/compacts? *shudders*

Men fought wars so you could be free to ride proper bicycles and this how you repay them?!

😉

Two of my mates have the Spa Ti Audax bike.

Bastards.

right, I really don't want steel, I've had 2 before and want a change, love to try carbon but does good quality alu v entry level carbon? as budget is only upto £1500 would it be better to go for metal?

For goodness sake man - just get your Credit Card out!

http://www.tredz.co.uk/.Cube-Agree-GTC-Pro-Compact-2013-Road-Bike_58150.htm

It's it just about head tube length?

Trouble is though a high head tube may feel good on a test ride but when you want to get out of a north easterly it's not such a good idea.

Trouble is though a high head tube may feel good on a test ride but when you want to get out of a north easterly it's not such a good idea.

A high head tube means you're sat up a bit higher, which stops your thighs from bouncing off your belly when you're in the drops.

love to try carbon

Get some test rides then 😀

Personally I'd rather have something made from carbon, but I hear very good things about the Cannondale CAAD series.

Would recommend the eddy Merckx emx range

Anything Ti, with the correct dimensions.

All my bikes have different geometries so it is a case of matching your expectations to the type of ride. My winter Ti hack is the heaviest of my road bikes but probably the most comfortable.

Interestingly I've just spunked for a Giant TCR Advanced SL frame and it plisses all over the Felt F4 its 'replacing'. It's much tighter and stiffer yet surprisingly comfortable.

Giant's Defy range are a bit slacker / have taller head tubes if you want to add them in to the choice?

That Ritchey is stunning.

Can it be had as a complete bike?

Don't approach it from "I want a tall headtube". Work out what height drop you want between the saddle and the bars and then find a frame* that will allow you to replicate this position.

Saddle height
position of saddle tip relative to bottom bracket axis
reach from tip of saddle
height difference between saddle and bars

Lots of good advice as always.

But I do echo going to a shop and getting measured and set up for the kind of riding you will do. It will save you making an expensive mistake or spending months fiddling. I have done this for a touring bike (steel) and a sportive bike (carbon) and don't regret it at all.

I have a Bianchi C2C and it's very comfortable. The equivalent now is the Infinito.

And sportive geometry is a lot about the head tube (I am 6'2" ad would need so many spacers it would look ridiculous on a pure race bike) but ALSO about the frame comfort. A bike built Mark Cavendish to sprint on is not going to ride very well over cobbles.

I got a cycle fit done by cyclefit 6 years ago (by the same bloke that fitted Cancellera this year none the less!) after lots of knee problems when I was faced with the chance of needing an operation.

They deduced that simply put I needed a 60cm frame height wise but a 56cm frame reachwise.

So I really echo the voices saying get a proper good fit done, get your 'numbers' for the measurements I list above and then find* a frame to fit.

* this is the difficult part and I opted for custom...

get fitted properly by an experienced bike fitter.

many riders using old information end up on a frame 1 size too large for their ideal setup.

get the smallest frame which fits properly, will allow fitting in "both directions" (shrinking or expanding) by adjusting stem, seatpost, saddle, pedal cleats, crank length, bars, bar taping, control setup, etc.

look carefully at your drop and reach. saddle height is critical, many run it too high..

personally? I ride a 54cm race bike (Specialized Tarmac) but with less drop and less reach than would be normal, it fits me perfectly now!

had a fitting session which made fundamental differences to my setup; something that came out of that session was difference in my leg lengths which is very common for many riders, and causes instability / pain / injury unless compensated for during the fit.

the fit also addressed the right shoulder pain I can get from repeated dislocations during years of freeride mountain biking and other extreme sports

"good fit" is one of those things that I would not suffer from doing 20-30 miles locally on a Saturday morning ride

but yesterday doing 104 mile ride solo in strong winds from Milton Keynes back to London through Bucks/Northants/Herts; good fit makes a massive difference between completing the ride and baling out to take a train home, 1/2 way through the ride

wheels and tires very important, I run handbuilts (Hope hubs on Mavic Open Pro rims with d/b spokes and Specialized Roubaix tires), quick light but also comfortable and shrug off potholes impacts!

quality clothing like comfortable bib shorts (with chamois cream), fitted shoes with proper footbeds and shims, merino wool socks, overshoes if cold, knee warmers, good gloves, upper layers, correct hydration, energy foods, some nice coffee whilst taking the train before the ride, all make a big difference for the long miles

Buy my cervelo S2 in the classifieds - it got me round the Tour of Wessex (three 100 mile sportives back to back) without any problems at the quicker end of those that were there. As everyone says, if it fits, it's comfy!

Mind you, if I ever get back on the bike one of those ritcheys would be lovely. Heavy and slow, but lovely 😉

its 8cm too small

Time First? Can build it with Ultegra for a smidge over 3k - based on the Fluidity which Cycling Plus called the best sportive frame on the market. Proper RTM carbon frame, much better build quality than anything pre-preg

its 8cm too small

well, esher up there thinks that a lot of people are riding bikes too big for them... (that's not going to work, is it? 🙂 )

Nickc

Charlie, selective maybe, misquote? Don't think so, unless I got it wrong and you weren't trying to suggest that frames made out of a material other than steel can be comfortable?

Yep you misunderstood.

The frames listed sound like alloy or carbon.
Personally I would look at ti or steel.
Didn't comment on carbon what so ever.
Alloy frames tend to be stiff.
I am knackered after 70 miles, that is a fact, no matter what material I ride.